It is marketed to the public as such, but it is just a car. Not a truck, not an SUV, just a car. Some Rogues have AWD, some do not, but the frame & chassis are 100% car. Some even call it a crossover, but that's just a specific type of car. A car that pretends to be an SUV based on it's physical appearance, not its performance.
PeterH_605 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 18, 2019 9:12 amI did some research into this. I find the tow limits given in North America make very little sense and are artificially low since most drivers do not know how to balance a trailer or how to use trailer brakes. The best resource I found was the Nissan Australia website, the rogue is called the x-Trail there and is offered in a configuration with the QR25DE and a CVT. The Australian tow limit is 1,500 lbs unbraked or 3,500 lbs braked.
I started to tow a small 1,000 lb unbraked RV last summer on our 2014 Rogue awd and encountered no issues. We had a car full of camping gear and the trailer behind, I'd say total interior and trailer load were close to 1,500 lbs plus 2 adults and a full tank of fuel. I mainly kept to back roads cruising at 65 mph and the occasional highway staying stickily in the right lane.
The Rogue did fairly good towing on reasonably flat ground, I'd be reserved about taking it though rocky mountain passes as it struggles keeping up the speed going up large hills, you can tell the engine is on the small side for towing a trailer that size.
Going forward I'm planning on adding the 4 line transmission block and a transmission cooler to the car at the 60k miles cvt service. I'm still on the fence about a brake controller this season and adding trailer brakes.
PS: the SL Rogue is pre-wired for a trailer harness, in the trunk on the driver's side there is a 12v power harness for the trailer power, just need to add a fuse in the accessory slot in the lower engine fuse box
No issues to report, towed the RV for 3,500 miles or so over the last year, longest trip in one day with the trailer was around 800 miles. I can tell you the fuel economy gets really bad and when taking mountain passes in the steep sections I can't maintain 60 mph and drop down to 40-45 mph depending on the slope. Having a braked trailer makes a big difference. I am thinking about getting a weight distribution hitch in the future to counter the rear squatting. I do keep a close eye on the CVT temp using a Bluetooth scanner and the app CVTz50, if it gets hot I pull over and let it cool down. I was looking at installing a transmission cooler in front of the radiator but the hose routing seems more hassle than it's worth. I think I will just change my engine coolant early and maybe add some 'Water Wetter' to increase the heat transfer of the engine coolant, logic being the CVT is cooled in the engine radiator, the faster the engine coolant can dissipate the heat the colder my CVT should run.
Cool, cool. But remember, results may vary. Also, while replacing a tranny "is cheaper than a different car", not everyone has the spare change to do that either. How does that saying go? An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.rdttfc wrote: ↑Fri Jun 05, 2020 9:15 amThat’s an awesome perspective, thank you! It’s good to hear “I actually tried it this way and this is what I experienced” vs just naysaying. I do agree that it’s not built to tow and you run the risk of blowing up the transmission, but a transmission is cheaper than a different car
Just to further add background, I am in Alberta, Canada summer temperature when I tow is around 70-85F, I suspect that also aids in keeping the temperates of the engine & cvt low. I don't believe you could translate my experience to middle of the summer in Phoenix .rdttfc wrote: ↑Fri Jun 05, 2020 9:15 amThat’s an awesome perspective, thank you! It’s good to hear “I actually tried it this way and this is what I experienced” vs just naysaying. I do agree that it’s not built to tow and you run the risk of blowing up the transmission, but a transmission is cheaper than a different car