yeah there is a thread about this in the 240 section...its a copy of the Quaife design, with cheaper materials.Apparently the Honda guys have had problems with it snapping axle's, but I think alot of the complains about it stem from trying to get the axle back out. It seems the way the gears are cut makes pulling the axle back out near impossible and most destroy the axle/diff housing in the process. Damn good deal though, if your willing to trust your drivetrain to OBX...

Did you ever get yours installed? were did you buy the bolts at again? Im thining Im gonna buy one an s15 one off ebay some time in the near future...

I'm still working on it. I got it all assembled, but I need to adjust the pinion depth as it's too deep.

any updates?

Where did you say you got the bolts for the ring gear from?

float went AWOL?

as far as the clutch type vs. TorSen type, i think this is very relevant:

some TorSen diffs [the Type-AARRRRR Integra comes to mind] are designed with no preload. Quaifes, on the other hand [as well as the rather new OBX knock-offs], have some preload, which helps it react faster and also helps when one wheel has a lot more traction than the other. i've never tested a TorSen without preload back-to-back against one with preload, but i would guess that a TorSen with fairly substantial preload should be able to generate a little lock-up off the throttle, similar to a 1.5-way clutch type, and should help alleviate the problems experienced when one wheel has little or no traction. from the first-hand reviews i've read on the OBX and Quaife models, both of these hypotheses appear to be substantiated. but rather i'm new to the 240 scene, and i've never driven on a clutch-type diff, only TorSens. and i like them a lot, BTW. made my last FWD car capable of power-on oversteer .

my miata comes with torsen , its awwsum!

My specV had a torsen?(Helical), it was teh sweetness in autoX. It had super fast engagment. It caused me massive amounts of understeer, but that was mainly due to a loose nut behind the wheel. ;-)

Sorry for the delayed reply guys. Work has been keeping me busy. Anyway, I just had the shop take a look at the pattern this morning and they said that I'm golden. I'm planning on putting it in this week. I need new seals for the input and output shafts. I'll let you guys know how it compares to a VLSD at least later this week. I think I still remember how that 2 way felt in there as well, so I'll try and give some comparision to that as well.

Float did you have to re-shim it to make it fit?I read another thread about shimming the diff and they used all kinds of crazy stuff like home made shims from soda cans (stacked a few thick).I kinda dont want to put one together with soda cans...

the FSM says its guess and check using a "shim kit" I dont have one and would never need one. I get the feeling only thing that could need to be set would be the preload, since the center line of the ring gear is the same reguarless of what diff its on, so the pinion depth should stay the same, you would just have to get the preload shims to center the thing in the caseing and give it the proper amount of resistance....