Hi, all.
I went looking for good torque wrenches yesterday and found that there are two kinds: the one with the long pin that stays put and shows the reading against a scale on the wrench handle (I am more used to these), and the other with a dial setting that is set to the required value (that is supposed to do what exactly? "Slip" or "click" at the correct setting?)
What do people recommend? The one with the long pin is tough to read since it could be used in tight places, so the other one looks a lot more interesting. But I wonder about the accuracy of the setting on the dial - how well does it really work?
Recommendations?
Z
Torque wrench differences?
I would recommend the one with the dial setting. I have both types of torque wrenches at home. Not only is the dialer much easier to use, it is also a lot more precise than the flex-bow type.
As far as how well they work, I completely reconstructed my MGB engine with the dial-up wrench. Torqued up the bottom end, head, everything - and it ran just fine afterwards with no problems, so it can be trusted IMO.
As far as how well they work, I completely reconstructed my MGB engine with the dial-up wrench. Torqued up the bottom end, head, everything - and it ran just fine afterwards with no problems, so it can be trusted IMO.
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szh
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Thanks for the replies, folks! I will go for the "clicker" version, then.
Z
Robert, I was unable to make it to El Segundo last weekend (family arrived back in town last Thursday) - sorry I did not call you about it. Thanks immensely for your offer, but time away from San Jose (on weekends) is becoming difficult for me, so I am going to try to DIY a bunch of it and see how it goes.
Z
Robert, I was unable to make it to El Segundo last weekend (family arrived back in town last Thursday) - sorry I did not call you about it. Thanks immensely for your offer, but time away from San Jose (on weekends) is becoming difficult for me, so I am going to try to DIY a bunch of it and see how it goes.
No prob. Call, email or post if you hit any snags or have any questions.
Two things that seem to get missed when people do the struts is 1) Try to loosen (NOT remove) the top strut nut *before* raising the car. If you can loosen it first, removal will be a lot easier later.2) Don't forget to mark the spring hat location relative to the spring before disassembly. Make sure you don't mix up the struts.
Two things that seem to get missed when people do the struts is 1) Try to loosen (NOT remove) the top strut nut *before* raising the car. If you can loosen it first, removal will be a lot easier later.2) Don't forget to mark the spring hat location relative to the spring before disassembly. Make sure you don't mix up the struts.
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Q451990
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DAEDALUS wrote:Don't forget to mark the spring hat location relative to the spring before disassembly.
Very important! I'm not sure why this wasn't a problem for me the first time I did this job in 2000, but it really slowed me down last week! I found that the best way to re-align everything is to look at the old rubber seat for the spring imprint and then line up the new one at the same point relative to the two dimples. If you're not replacing the seats (not recommended) then it's even easier, just put the spring back where it was. This will make much more sense when you actually get into the job.
Heath
Re: Torque wrench differences?
szhosain wrote:I went looking for good torque wrenches yesterday and found that there are two kinds: the one with the long pin that stays put and shows the reading against a scale on the wrench handle (I am more used to these), and the other with a dial setting that is set to the required value (that is supposed to do what exactly? "Slip" or "click" at the correct setting?)
What do people recommend? The one with the long pin is tough to read since it could be used in tight places, so the other one looks a lot more interesting. But I wonder about the accuracy of the setting on the dial - how well does it really work?
Recommendations?
Z
Although the click type is easier to use, the flexing needle/scale type is considered by the pros to be more accurate....especially in the long term. The spring in the click type will often take a "set" if the wrench is not returned to its lowest setting after each use.
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Mayhem_J30
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szh
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Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO! - Location: San Jose, CA
Appreciate that, thanks! Quote »Two things that seem to get missed when people do the struts is 1) Try to loosen (NOT remove) the top strut nut *before* raising the car. If you can loosen it first, removal will be a lot easier later.2) Don't forget to mark the spring hat location relative to the spring before disassembly. Make sure you don't mix up the struts. [/quote]I also intend to change the rubber dust boots too, so I will make sure to keep the springs lined up and properly marked.DAEDALUS wrote:No prob. Call, email or post if you hit any snags or have any questions.
When you say "don't mix up the struts", you mean front to back, right? I.e., I do not see any left to right differences that I can tell. Although the assemblies are different left to right, the struts appear to be the same to me ... (?)
Z
