Torque Specs?

[Rockhoundrob]

I am getting ready to replace lower control arm, wheel hub, and inner/outer tie rods on my daughters 2009 Rogue.

I have a Chilton manual but ONE spec data is wrong/missing.
What is the torque spec for the Caliper mounting bracket bolt (NOT the caliper bolt). Manual says 1 ft. lbs. I know this is a misprint.

Also, what is the INNER tierod torque Specs?

Looked on internet is no help.

Thanks!

[D1dad]

If memory serves when I did a wheel bearing it was 80ft lbs. I’ve never worried about or used torque specs when doing brakes. I tighten the caliper bolts good and tight with a 3/8 ratchet and impact the caliper bracket bolts. I make darn sure that the axle nut is torqued to 129lbs for sure though.

[Rockhoundrob]

Bottom;line...I have the specs for everything, but not the Caliper bracket bolts and the inner tie rods.

I am thinking probably the INNER tierod is about 30 ft lbs and the Caliper bracket bolts are about 45 Ft Lbs.
Does that sounds reasonable?

[D1dad]

I can’t find anything on the tie rod end but the printout I had from my last go round was 105 ft lbs for the front bracket and 40lbs for the rear. The rear is a much smaller less robust bracket so it makes sense. 30 does sound about right for a tie rod end though. My specs are from an 09 Altima but Nissan specs were very much the same from sedans to rogues. Maybe vstar can chime in here eventually since he has access to everything Nissan. Caliper mounting bolts are 23 ft lbs. I use a a 14 mm end wrench on my caliper bolts and make sure not to Popeye them and that they still slide easily. Never an issue with a brake hanging up. Before I had a torque wrench I made sure to use wrenches versus sockets for the extra feel.

[Rockhoundrob]

Thanks for your input. I decided to take a chance and go to O'Reilys and they were nice enough to print out a spec sheet for me.

Sheet says 122 ft lbs for the caliper bracket to knuckle, but I am going with 100.
and inner tierod is 25 lbs

I am surprised the outer tierod is 65 ft lbs. I would have thought 40-50, then go one more notch to the next cotter pin hole.

[D1dad]

I literally just got done changing a front wheel bearing on my Altima. I rotated the tires and a noise popped up which I would have bet was the tires, but rotating them back did nothing. I would have bet money it was front left if I hadn’t had just put a timken bearing on it last year. The right was an oreilley house brand, 2 yrs old. I had the matching timken in waiting and sure enough that was it. I went 70 lbs mounting the bearing to the knuckle and 130 on the axle nut. The mounting bracket I hit with an impact and tightened the caliper as tight as I could get it without using my bicep and a 3/8 short socket wrench. Good as new!
No more house brand bearings on any of my cars. I had an advance auto last 3 yrs and oreilleys last 2.5. I used timken on an 07 Murano and they had over 100k on them when I sold it and were still dead silent. Both times the bearing went there was no play at all, just a hum when pulling the wheel. This last time the hum was predominant when I went around a right hand curve which led me to believe it was drivers side. Also the cheap bearing literally barnacle themselves in the knuckle. I had to kroil the bejesus out of it and use a bottle Jack and sledge to bust its free. It’s only been on a few years. Hopefully it’s done for a long while.