Torque Specs/ I must be dumb.

[240Kuminachu]

Go ahead search, no where to be found on this board. I've spent the last 4 nights looking for the specs of the SR. No luck what so ever. Someone please help me out. I've got ARp studs and they recomend 60ft/lbs but I've heard differently, that thats not enough. Any thoughts and also what order to go in? You guys have been such a great help to me, thanks. Intake, exhaust manifolds?

While im at it, I need a head gassket also, Apexi has one thats 87mm. Are there any others that come in 87? Phase2 has it and I've not found any others. Suggestions please.

Once again, the shop kicked my *** on the street so im tackleing it my self, Im glad they did. I wish I would have done it all myself in the first place. Thanks for all your help.

I will feel like suck a dumb *** if someone finds the specs on this site or one related. Thanks!

[Onizuka]

The stock headgasket is 1.1mm thick, you probably want just a metal 1.1mm headgasket. Heavythrottle makes their own, its pretty cheap, thats what i have.

[240Kuminachu]

Its bored out to 87mm sorry, I cant use a stock gasket. At least im pretty sure I cant, let me know if im wrong. THanks. Also the thicker the gasket is, the lower the compression right?

[ItzGenX]

Its bored out to 87mm sorry, I cant use a stock gasket. At least im pretty sure I cant, let me know if im wrong. THanks. Also the thicker the gasket is, the lower the compression right?

Correct, when you put thicker head gaskets, you are increasing the combustion space and lowering compression.

[BuudWeizErr]

What he is saying is that his engine block is bored out to 87mm.

I can't answer your question, just clearing up the confusion.

[ItzGenX]

Most aftermarket headgaskets sold are 87mm bore. My cometic gasket is 87mm. As for the ARP studs, I didn't trust the 60/ft.lbs, so I went ahead and did the FSM torque procedure (somewhere around 75-85lbs). It has been fine. Even Greaser from FA forums did what I did, and he runs 10s with his car.

[Cyberkreig]

well.. Torque specs are based off of something known as 'bolt stretch'. torquing a bolt to a given ft.lb rating will stretch said bolt a certain amount lengthwise, this is what provides the clamping force to hold whatever it is you are bolting on, on.

Only ARP knows how much torque will stretch their bolts to teh right clamping force.

[DAEDALUS]

(Chicken and the egg.) Bolt stretch is a result not a cause. The bolt is already under a certain amount a tension from being torqued down. You can get a pretty rough estimate of pre-load (tension) based on stud diameter and torque. The fact that the bolt stretches can be used to verify pre-load and for collecting analytical data, but since you can't measure it yourself, it is a useless attribute. Assuming the same stud diameters and surface finish, an aluminum bolt torqued to 100 ft-lbs will stretch 3x as much as a steel bolt under the same torque, but both will carry roughly the same tension. ARP must know how much torque will provide adequate preload without dangerously yielding the hardware, but I'm not sure why it would be any different from stock torque values, unless surface finishes are different or they're using stronger materials and aiming for higher pre-load than stock.

[Cyberkreig]

but I'm not sure why it would be any different from stock torque values, unless surface finishes are different or they're using stronger materials and aiming for higher pre-load than stock.

you are a pretty smart guy.. and you have me on the first part..

but i think you didnt pay attention to this quoted part...

of course they are using stronger materials, what else would be the purpose of buying upgraded head studs?

[DAEDALUS]

Then why does ARP recommend 60 ft-lbs vs. the factory 75-85 ft-lbs? Or were those numbers not correct? Again, it is primarily torque and fastener diameter that drives bolt tension and, to a lesser degree, threads and finish. It takes some pretty costly processes to get steel up around 260ksi. Factory high grade steel is probably (just an educated guess) around 180ksi, so the improvement isn't earth-shattering. I'm not disagreeing the materials are better, but I certainly question the need, especially if you're not going at least moderately higher in torque. For streetable applications, failed head bolts are pretty uncommon.

[Cyberkreig]

I highly doubt the need for upgraded head studs on a street vehicle..

All i was trying to say is that ARP most likely has a recommended torque raiting for a reason.

[240Kuminachu]

Honestly, no one has the specs on the damn head? Website?, FSM? And the bolts that hold the cams down, anyone know them? I think I can get the arp's down fine. Intake, exhaust, do thoes need special attention? Quit arguing! You guys are horrible!

I ordered the greddy 1.2mm, hopefully it will work fine. Thanks guys.

Also, Im not sure if my turbo is in good cond. The shaft doesnt spin too freely. If I spin it with my index and thumb as hard as I can it goes around maybee 4 or 5 times then stops. I was told its not in good shape and wont spool till like 3500 or soo. Baked oil on the bearings maybee i duno. Thanks again.

[Nathan]

The specs on the KA cam journal bearings are like 8 lb.ft. but I've heard rumor you shouldn't try to get them that high, they'll break. Also, I have a brand new turbo and it doesn't spin freely past two or three revolutions either. But then again it might just need to be broken in...

[ItzGenX]

My turbo never spun totally free, but it spools awefully quick when I got the car running. You just need oil and some heat to bring it back to life again. My turbo spun only when I reached in to turn it. If I were to stop turning, it would instantly stop. Of course, this was before the motor was even installed and running.