torque specs exhaust manifold

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gundamx_105
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Car: silvia

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well since my last post was closed abruptly I am posting again. anyway i am paranoid, the hayes manual says 12-15 ft-lb for both ga and sr, and the 200sx s14 manual shows torque spec by the bolt, i think the studs are 10m and im sure they are grade 7. and i says 30-32 for that. m8 grade 7 is 15-16.

so can someone tell me what ft lb they torqued there exhaust manifold nuts to?i don't wanna break the threading out of the head!


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CMG
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Even with swivel heads you won't be able to reach all the bolts with a torque socket, what would you use? I just use a normal open ended wrnech and tighten in a diagonal pattern, always works.

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Hijacker
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I closed your last post "so abruptly" because you asked a question that has been asked a million times.

As far as torquing the exhaust nuts down, don't be so paranoid. Unless you're king kong and are using a 1/2" drive breaker bar to torque them down, you'll be fine. I torque mine down by feel on a 3.8" drive ratchet and have never had one back off or strip out.

garagelu
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yea there is no way to get a torque wrench in there to torque. More importantly is to have a good gasket in there and tighten from middle bolts out to the outer bolts. The torque sequence is in the FSM.

duffman1278
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I was able to torque most of mine with a torque wrench, I got a proto torque wrench with a small head at the end and its REAL nice to get into tight spots, well that and I had a megan manifold, so even more space

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CMG
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That's cool, I could only use a standard torque on some of the bolts. I have a swivel head set, but it didn't come with a 14, wtf is that?

garagelu
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duffman1278 wrote:I was able to torque most of mine with a torque wrench, I got a proto torque wrench with a small head at the end and its REAL nice to get into tight spots, well that and I had a megan manifold, so even more space
But my point is that there is no advantage to torquing the nuts down. Even in the FSM there is no torque spec on it. It just tells you to tighten in a numerical order. Just tighten till you feel its right and leave it. WHY do you have to torque manifold bolts down. Even on the intake manifold, WHY? As long as you have them about equal tightness and torque them in the right sequence, you wont have any problems.

idahotuner
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i just hand tighend dow nthe itnake manifold. the exhaust side seems like it would be more important to gt torqued to the right specs. casue yo uwant them equal so no leaks occure

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gundamx_105
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Car: silvia

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thanx for the replies. i am reading this after doing the job and I'm glad i didn't strip out a head stud like i did to my cousins mazda mx6 gt head.

although after the exhaust manifold, i tightened down the 5 nuts on the aftermarket exhaust outlet. and the last one, the easiest to get, was giving it a little extra torque with my 1/4 drive ratchet and broke the stud in half ohh i should leave well enough alone, but i wanted to make sure this cheap ebay outlet, that i already resurfaced best i could, would not leak!

and yeah, shouldn't have posted such a general type thread b4. i have actually searched a lot b4 and can never find the s13 silvia sr or 180sx fsm's, guess there is only the s14 200sx, s15, s13 ca18det, 240sx, and sentra available on the web. I guess all the torque specs are the same for all sr engines, but i wanted to be certain.

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CMG
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You were using all 5 studs? I use half studs half bolts, I think that might be stock. Are you using washers too? You don't have to mongo the bolts, you can always go back and re-tighten after some driving.

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Hijacker
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Studs on the exhaust tend to break easy just due to the fact they get brittle quicker from rusting quicker. Nissan makes some of the stoutest exhaust mani studs that I have ever seen. I have yet to break a Nissan exhaust mani stud, but I have nusted O2 housing studs and downpipe studs.

You can order brand new O2 housing studs/bolts from Nissan. Just order for a 300ZX twin turbo. You can also order exhaust mani studs for a KA or FWD SR. Nissan uses the same stud for both IIRC. I recommend OE as they are made to resist seizing unlike if you used a standard bolt or stud.

And you aren't held to the OE setup of 3 studs, 2 bolts. 5 studs makes a stronger seal. I think Nissan went with the two bolts to make guiding the o2 housing on and off easier.


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