Torque Damper

Post by **improved** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

Have you guys heard of a Torque Damper...?

If so do you guys think it would be beneficial to handling or rather drifting.

If it is please explain. Thanks.

Post by **SingleCamSam** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

This is the stabilizing bar that braces the engine itself right? I've seen these around. Seems like it'd be cheaper just to fab your own rather than buy one.

Post by **improved** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

Yeah that's basically but it has a small shock at the other end to absorb the torque.

Any more replies

Post by **96_S14_SE** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

Shocks are gay.... Use the force to find my "engine brace" post...

Post by **PROJECTRB240SX** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

IF YOU USE TWO DAMPNERS IT WILL GREATLY REDUCE THE UNDERSTEER TO THE SIDE OPPOSITE OF THE DAMPNER. I HAVE TWIN DAMPNERS ON MY KA24E AND NOW ITS GOING TO BE TRANSFERED OVER TO THE RB20. IT ALSO REDUCES WEAR AND TEAR ON THE MOUNTS.

Post by **improved** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

Where did you get your dampners from. And for how much.Thanks

Does anyone else have some feedback...it would be really helpful. Matt

Post by **PROJECTRB240SX** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

IT WAS SOME WEBSITE I WAS ON WHILE I WAS LOOKING FOR MY RB20 STUFF. I'LL LOOK AT ALL MY SAVED PAGES AND WHEN I FIND IT I'LL POST IT.

Post by **PROJECTRB240SX** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

I THINK I PAID $45 EACH, ITS BEEN ABOUT 3 MONTHS. OHH BY THE WAY IT WILL MAKE YOU GO THROUGH SPRINGS, STRUTS, AND OR TIRE A HELL OF ALOT FASTER BECAUSE OF THE ADDED FORCE ON THESE OBLECTS.

Post by **improved** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

How much faster are we talking.......and we are talking about the dampner that connects to the engine correct.

Im gonna get KYB adjustable how long do you think they will last.

Post by **PROJECTRB240SX** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

THOSE WILL LAST LONG, THEY ARE BUILT TOUGH. THEY WONT WEAR THAT MUCH FASTER. ITS MAINLY THE SPRINGS AND TIRES BECAUSE A DAMPER TAKES ALOT OF THE FORCE OFF THE MOUNTS AND PLACES IT ON THE SHOCK TOWER OR BODY (DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU INSTALL IT).

Post by **improved** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

I see so if i put it on the body would it eventually destroy the body where its connected at.

Post by **96_S14_SE** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

In case you didnt see mine:

It still looks like this with some subtle strengthening to the head mount. Oh yeah and it utilizes 2 clevis pins vs bolts so I can remove it in 5 secs even when hot.

Its been on there through 2 months, 2 auto-x's, a few street races, and about 4k miles now. Car still shakes like crazy in drive, while at idle (automatics are under load in dirve), but it feels nice on the gas

I havent removed it since, as it works, and v2 fundage didnt come through, although I had enough to finish 80% of another one.

No ill effects to date so I seriously doubt a dampened one would be worse

Post by **PROJECTRB240SX** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

IT WILL CAUSE EFFECT AS YOU UP THE POWER AND ABUSE IT SOME MORE.

Post by **improved** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

Right now i am looking to up suspension...Learn my car. Then move on to either a turbo ka or a SR. I want to run about 6 or 7psi 210 to 220 streetable horsepower.

What would be the predicted outcome on tires as i would like me front tires to last as long as possible. The rear are another story.

Post by **96_S14_SE** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

My tires wear the same, possibly better due to the engine not shifting in hard corners.

Rears will go sooner due to a more direct torque transfer, but thats good

. There is still alot of slop in the rear subframe (fixed by spacers, which I have) and in the transmission / diff mounts.

Its not a big deal at all.

As for frame / body damage I dont see it. The area where I mounted to and most others do sees alot more repetitive force just because of bumps then the engine will produce. If anything were to go, it would be the springs upper mount bolts. The horizontal pull on that part of the body can easilly be argued as nill as well, due to the pretensioned STB distributing the load.

If I up the power then my brace becomes pointless anyway, as it was designed to be 100% legal to the D-Street Prepaired rules of the SCCA, in which my car runs. When I go Forced Induction Ill more then likely machine out some Aluminum slugs for engine mounts, as I wont be in that class any more and after market / solid mounts will be ok for my new class of SM. I mean the brace will still function the same with more power, but Id rather have solid mounts. In my current class it is not allowed.

Post by **PROJECTRB240SX** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

YEAH IT FINE AS THE POWER STAYS LOW, IF YOU INCREASE THE POWER YOU INCREASE THE AMOUNT OF FORCE ON THE MOUNTING POINT.

Post by **improved** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

so it is possible for the dampners to be anti-productive on big horsepower cars. Due to the fact it would push the mounting points outwards and seeing as it would most likely be mounted at the strut tower cause unneccesary body roll?

Post by **PROJECTRB240SX** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

NO, ITS PRODUCTIVE IN TRANSFERING POWER BUT IT CAUSES DAMAGE TOO

Post by **96_S14_SE** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

A damper or solid mount is usefull on street cars where one would like a more immediate torque transfer to the wheels. Day to day driving isnt heavilly sacrificed with these units, as the stock mounts are still absorbing some vibration.

When people go big, they go with very firm to solid engine and transmission mounts. When I go forced induction most things soft will then be replaced with something solid, as Im an scca junky, and like I said its not allowed in my current class.

With performance you must sacrifice something. Generally one sacrifices streetability, or should I say comfort, and longivity, as you cant run on the edge and not have something deteriorate over time.

Its why street cars well maintained will last 200k + at times, while all out pro race cars are designed squeeze the most out of the vehicle, but just enough to finish the track / event, and will require a rebuild afterwards.

edit: oh and the mount / damper stops the engine from rotating side to side. This keeps the engines CG constant thus removing some body roll, as a side effect in the corners under throttle.

Post by **improved** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

So how does the Car hold up in the SCCA. I want to join but i need a little info starting up like what does the car need extra beyond a helmet for myself.

And does anyone know where to get these torque dampers.

Post by **PROJECTRB240SX** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

I FOUND THIS PLACE AWHILE BACK

http://www.indiamart.com/gashocks/#products

HAVEN'T USED THERE PRODUCTS THOUGH.

Post by **96_S14_SE** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 5:51 am

improved wrote:So how does the Car hold up in the SCCA. I want to join but i need a little info starting up like what does the car need extra beyond a helmet for myself.

And does anyone know where to get these torque dampers.

Works great... is as solid as it gets (for a TSD only), and is DSP legal,which is the class I run currently.

You dont even need a helmet, but if you loan one on site you risk geeting bugs or whatever anyone else has

Just need a clean safe car (good tires, not bald, throttle that returns, tightly held in battery and a clean car)...

There are plenty of threads on this here. Just search for them, as I have posted some good info from time to time.

edit: Oh yeah and a drivers liscence

Torque Damper

Torque Damper

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