Torque cycle arp's?

[wild_maxx]

I read this on another forum about building a ka24de motor. Does this sounds correct?

"Torque cycle the studs. Do it in steps (the crank should not be in the block and neither should the bearings) Put the main caps on, put some arp moly lube on the nuts and studs and finger tighten all the nuts down. Torque all nuts to 30ft/lbs making sure to do it in one stroke with the torque wrench if you are using a wratcheting type as this will ensure accurate torque settings. Then torque them all to 60ft/lbs, then 75ft/lbs, then torque up to arp's recomended torque settings on the studs which if i remember correctly is like 85ft/lbs for the ka. Now loosen all the nuts and relube them. Now repeat the above process twice lubing the nuts both times. Now your studs have been torque cycled and stretched so that they will hold an accurate torque setting"

(ps.. yes I know the ka has a gurdle not main caps)

[WDRacing]

Sounds like what we do on almost everything in the avionics field. It's basically just a torque sequence, like when you install the head. I dunno about doing it to just the studs, sounds pointless when you're supposed to do it when you install the crank and head anyway...

Stretching the hardware, whether it's bolts or studs insures that the item being held in place is firmly seated and the stretching effect on the hardware insures it happens during the torque procedure rather then when the item comes under a load.

It's also a good idea to let the item sit for 30 minutes after the final torque, then retorque it to the max again after the hardware has cooled off.

WD