About 10k miles back I replaced my inner and outer tie rods and bellows boots ('98). I recall ordering the boots from Oreillys and getting the wrong size, then going directly to junkyard where I found boots that seemed to be in good condition but that actually fit. I finished the job, and that was it.
Til now. A few weeks ago I changed the oil and while under my car I noticed the driver side bellows boot had torn.
Here is where my question begins. The tie rods are all new(ish), but is the fact the inner tie rod has been exposed with a torn boot enough to need to replace it, or simply get another boot on it? Is there a way to remove the outer tie rod without destroying it? (I recall replacing it last time and destroying it trying to get it off) What if I do nothing? Will the exposed inner tie rod just dry up and accumulate debris? If tie rod ends are supposed to be replaced in sets (both sides), will I need to replace both sides (again)?

Thank you!

If the boot has no water inside and the inner joint is still strong with no debris, just change the boot. I did this on a previous car and all was good until sold several years after.

With only 10k miles on the outer tie rods, I doubt they will be seized to the knuckle. You can just tap the knuckle couple of times and it will separate.

You can count the rotations needed to remove the outer tie rod and use the same count while installing. This way your alignment will not be way off. I still recommend alignment afterwards if you care about your tires.

Been exactly there in your spot , I'd wipe it down , put a good quality boot on it , where it'll be alright and last.You would see gross looseness if needing an "inner" T-rod.
BUT I've seen flimsy boots from I forget where ( A-zone ?,Oreelly's ? ) , and NAPA had a good thicker stout boot that lasted , also ya never know what ya gonna get when ordering online . Don't put that flimsy SH!$#TT on there is my basic advice - but do install one ,my opinion.

Make sure the boot didn't explode, too. If you've had to add any P/S fluid, then it may not be the boot's fault. The rack seal may be leaking and may have filled the boot until it popped.

Will I need to take off the inner tie rod as well or can I replace the boot with the rod still on the vehicle? I'm guessing it'll need to come off.
Also, I recall when I initially replaced the tie rods someone told me just to wack the knuckle and the rod would separate. I pounded as hard as I could but it wouldn't budge. I ended up having to rent a puller which destroyed the outer tie rod, but I was replacing it anyways. Given the tie rod has only been on there a year I'm hoping it will pop off this time without destroying it. MAybe I need a bigger mallet?

Alibireason wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 22, 2021 10:24 am

Will I need to take off the inner tie rod as well or can I replace the boot with the rod still on the vehicle? I'm guessing it'll need to come off.

The boot should slide off once you remove the clamps and unscrew the coupler and lock nut from the inner rod. You shouldn't need to take the rod loose. To avoid having to reset the toe-in-toe-out, spray a stripe of paint across the coupler, lock nuts, and both ends of the rods where they enter the coupler. Then just match up the paint when reassembling.

Alibireason wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 22, 2021 10:24 am

Also, I recall when I initially replaced the tie rods someone told me just to wack the knuckle and the rod would separate. I pounded as hard as I could but it wouldn't budge. I ended up having to rent a puller which destroyed the outer tie rod, but I was replacing it anyways. Given the tie rod has only been on there a year I'm hoping it will pop off this time without destroying it. MAybe I need a bigger mallet?

Put a 1/4" drive short-socket the right size to protect the threads over the top of the stud, then whack as hard as you need to. I use a 6-pound hand sledge.

I ordered a boot from Nissan (should be here today) and bought a 4lb hammer at Harbor Freight (didn't have 6lb). Before I attempt replacing the boot I just wanted to make sure I had the right info. I read on a write up (tie-rod-end-and-steering-rack-boot-repl ... 96903.html) about greasing the inner tie rod joint (not the piston). What type of grease would I use? Also the write up mentions how hard it is to get the boot on. Is this true from other's experiences? Any helpful tips are appreciated. Thank you.

Alibireason wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 02, 2021 9:48 am

I read on a write up about greasing the inner tie rod joint (not the piston). What type of grease would I use? Also the write up mentions how hard it is to get the boot on. Is this true from other's experiences? Any helpful tips are appreciated. Thank you.

The boot should have a snug fit onto the inner tie-rod shaft but it will not be hard to slip it on without any lubrication at all. If for some reason it is too tight of a fit and does not slip on easily, a slight coat any oil or any type of grease will help.* (* vegetable oil or bacon grease are unacceptable exceptions )

UPDATE** I got it done this afternoon. No big deal at all. Here is what I encountered:

Jacked up car and took off tire.
Took off cotter pin on tie rod end.
Took off castle nut, flipped it, and replaced it flush with stud end.
Whacked twice (4lb hammer) on castle nut and it came loose.
I counted rings on rod leading to jam nut.
I took a paint marker pin and marked across rod end, nut, and inner rod.
Counted turns of tie rod end as I removed it.
Counted turns of jam nut as I removed it.
I removed black metal cover (4 bolts) for better access.
Removed old torn boot.
Cleaned area the boot covers, checked to make sure joint was greased.
Replaced boot:
Kind of a pain. It reminded me of putting a bicycle tire on, where 80% is over the lip but you have to slowly pry the remaining over. I pushed the metal ring all the back (inner) to get it out of the way, and when I finally got the boot fully on the metal ring was right there and easily slid on. I tightened, or crimped, the ring with a pair of needle nose pliars. I had to squeeze pretty hard to get it to seal. Once I figured out a technique of slowly pulling the boot over the lip with a pair of needle nose pliars, turning a bit and trying again, it slipped on. No oil needed
I did the reverse and put it all back together. It only took me about 45 minutes.

Thanks for the help!