tore the engine down, got a few q's now

[Master_Tao]

well I finally got my engine stipped dow to the block and I finally found out what was wrong with it. I was told that it was bad rings..... that's an under statement.



so where did all of you get your pistons? what were the prices and how much did you overbore if you did? When I get new pistons should I get new rods as well? Oh, and the last problem I can think of for now, I had my dad help me get the crank gear off and while he was he mangage to kick all my rod ends across the garage. So now they are all mixed up. How do I figure out wich one goes with which rod?

[81na ZX]

If you end up with new rods, your gonna need a new set of rod bearings You might even want to send the crank out to be lightened while its out.

Can't help ya with your real question though...

[Master_Tao]

OK, I just thought of another question. Is it gonna be possible to have a machine shop lighten my fly wheel? I ask because I have called around about getting the bottom end balanced and all the shops have said they need to balance the flywheel too. that is all fine but I do want a light weight flywheel soon(don't have enough for the JWT yet) and figured I could have them do that at the same time.what do you guys think?

[biosehnsucht]

Get new rod and crank bearings ANYWAYS!Not that expensive and great insurance.

I got my pistons through Race Engineering ( http://www.raceeng.com ), they're custom-spec (flat topped 84mm; stock is flat topped also, that's 1mm overbore is all) CP Pistons, I paid something around like $540-560 or something shipped at the time, I forget exactly.

They stock stock-sized and .5mm oversize pistons, also made by CP Pistons. Mine were only custom because they don't stock 1mm over. Other variations such as CR etc may cost more to custom since all they had to do was make mine wider.. the 'off the shelf' pistons they have are cheaper than customs naturally.

Oh the price I paid included the rings, also.

As for the rod ends, I think they had markings to indicate which was which but I'm not entirely sure (look at the #'s on the side).

If you find a place that does it cheap, get the rods reshotpeened if you don't buy new ones (a place here "in town" (in Ft Worth, I'm in Dallas) did mine for $20 flat). Theory is it smacks the molocules around into being more uniform and strong or such, and for such a price does it really matter? Of course you'll need someone to resurface the bearing surface after that.. but I had my bottom end balanced by a place in Ft Worth also and they took care of that for me.

ramble ramble ramble..

[jdmCAs13]

For the flywheel, I got 7 pounds dropped outta my stock one for $220. Call a machine shop and ask about getting it "scalloped". Its a great way to drop weight.

[Not_a_sr]

the shop where i had my motor done at, dissasembled the shortblock,bored,honed,balanced, reassembled, and sourced bearings and main bolts for me, they charged me 700$ for their services, we do have another shop that builds nothing but race motors they charge more but they also do really high quality work, probably superior work to where i had mine done, but for the price i couldnt beat what i got ! they worked so fast that i had them waiting on me to get some parts and my pistons.

like everyone else i recomend race engineering , they had my slugs to me the next day at like 560$ w/rings. i bored .20 over. still havnt started up the motor , but soon i will since the last of the parts ive been waiting on are comming in this month.

OK, I just thought of another question. Is it gonna be possible to have a machine shop lighten my fly wheel? I ask because I have called around about getting the bottom end balanced and all the shops have said they need to balance the flywheel too. that is all fine but I do want a light weight flywheel soon(don't have enough for the JWT yet) and figured I could have them do that at the same time.what do you guys think?

[float_6969]

Cracked Ring Land, that's not purty! That didn't happen to be the #3 cylnder did it?

Best place for pistons is from Race Engineering. They stock normal and .020 (.5mm) oversized, stock (8.5:1) compression pistons. I think they run you $495 and that is including the pistons, wrist pins, spirolox, and rings.

Mine is bored 1mm over with a custom compression ratio and cost about $650. That is basically a completely custom piston.

Don't fret about the rod ends. If you look at them closely, they all have a number on one side and an "I" shaped stamp on the other. The numbers and "I" stamp will match to the rods. It's just about stupid proof.

This is a pretty extensive rebuild that you've got in your hands, and I would recommend new main and rod bearings. I also put a new oil pump in mine, but I don't know that it was necessary. I would also consider things like front and rear main seals, cam seals, and just about everything else that might be old or could be replaced. My car has been down for over 6 months now, but it's basically a brand new motor. Just about EVERY part that could wear has been replaced. It's something to consider.

As for the flywheel, They tried to lighten mine and only got about 2-3lbs off of it. They did mine w/o the flywheel though so I don't know that it's absolutely necessary.

[wildacexxx]

seems like alot of u guys had to rebuild ur ca's. it this a problem that might occur with alot of ca's?

[Master_Tao]

Cracked Ring Land, that's not purty! That didn't happen to be the #3 cylnder did it?

nope #4.

Best place for pistons is from Race Engineering. They stock normal and .020 (.5mm) oversized, stock (8.5:1) compression pistons. I think they run you $495 and that is including the pistons, wrist pins, spirolox, and rings.

yeah, I called them today and I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get those(unless I hold out for toda or jun)

This is a pretty extensive rebuild that you've got in your hands, and I would recommend new main and rod bearings. I also put a new oil pump in mine, but I don't know that it was necessary. I would also consider things like front and rear main seals, cam seals, and just about everything else that might be old or could be replaced. My car has been down for over 6 months now, but it's basically a brand new motor. Just about EVERY part that could wear has been replaced. It's something to consider.

yeah, I know but that's the fun of it. I basicly bought the engine for $350, I bought it for the block, head, cpu, harness, turbo, manifolds, and all the other little stuff it came with. I'm gonna try and do what you have and just replace everything. I want a perfect engine. oh, and the odometer on the gauge cluster that came with it (out of the clip i believe) only reads 68800km. so I'm open to any suggestions that you may have for what needs done or replaced. I've read the rebuild threads on here but I know there were some little details, tricks, and problems with the rebuild that weren't covered.

[boost_boy]

well I finally got my engine stipped dow to the block and I finally found out what was wrong with it. I was told that it was bad rings..... that's an under statement.



so where did all of you get your pistons? what were the prices and how much did you overbore if you did? When I get new pistons should I get new rods as well? Oh, and the last problem I can think of for now, I had my dad help me get the crank gear off and while he was he mangage to kick all my rod ends across the garage. So now they are all mixed up. How do I figure out wich one goes with which rod?

Save your money man by just cleaning up the bore and replacing all 4 pistons with good condition stockers. Too many members in the CA community pull the "Monkey see, monkey do" thing and go for a rebuild when in all actuality they fail to realize that stock setup is more than capable of handling what most of them plan to dish out.

I knew what was wrong with that engine long before you owned. When a person advertises a blown CA or any turbo engine for that matter, it usually means that that individual got stupid with boost on an otherwise stock fuel system (ie 370cc injectors, stock ecu, stock afm, and stock T25) and go out and try to sustain better than 15psi. Oh it'll let you do it for a minute and it feels so good then "Boom" smoke out the tail pipe, a dead cylinder or two and a you've just screwed your JDM CA18 up real good.

Dee

[boost_boy]

seems like alot of u guys had to rebuild ur ca's. it this a problem that might occur with alot of ca's?

Whilst the CA is an older engine, most of them are in fairly good condition and can still take a moderate amount of abuse. If there's any doubt when purchasing a CA, always change the water pump, timing belt, camshaft seals, rear main seal, inspect and replace rod bearings if necessary. The mains rarely require changing, but it's a good idea to inspect them while you have the oil pan off. If the main mearings show excessive wear it usually indicates that the oil pump is failing or the engine was abused while being low on oil. The present engine in my sentra right now is a stock RWD ca and it was a perfectly healthy motor minus the crappy water pump that died witin the 1st 1 mile.

Dee

[Master_Tao]

Save your money man by just cleaning up the bore and replacing all 4 pistons with good condition stockers.

like the race engineering stock pistons or just some cheaper oem?

[boost_boy]

like the race engineering stock pistons or just some cheaper oem?

I'll share a little story with you guys, I purchased my 1st set of wiseco pistons through raceengineering and destroyed them within 7 days. The forged pistons or stock pistons are not exempt from the destruction of detonation. You can actually use a set of used and not worn CA18DET stock pistons and get a set of new rings. You can actually clean up those cylinders yourself because I've been there and done what happened to your motor on a few outtings. Save your money and buy something performance oriented like a new intercooler.

Dee

[WeldingHank]

seems like alot of u guys had to rebuild ur ca's. it this a problem that might occur with alot of ca's?

i just rolled over 10K miles since finishing my swap. good engines are DEFINATLY out there.

[Master_Tao]

http://www.trademotion.com/par...gid=1how about these for pistons? and what are the grades all about?

[float_6969]

I'll share a little story with you guys, I purchased my 1st set of wiseco pistons through raceengineering and destroyed them within 7 days. The forged pistons or stock pistons are not exempt from the destruction of detonation. You can actually use a set of used and not worn CA18DET stock pistons and get a set of new rings. You can actually clean up those cylinders yourself because I've been there and done what happened to your motor on a few outtings. Save your money and buy something performance oriented like a new intercooler.

Dee

I don't know if this makes any difference, but the pistons from Race Engineering are now made by CP (at least for the CA). But regardless, yes, detonation will kill any piston, made by anyone. As for what you want to replace the pistons with, that is up to you. I would first look at your goals with the motor. What do you want to do with the car? How much horsepower are you looking at? Of all the people on this board, I'm quite sure the Dee is the one that knows best the limits of a stock CA. I personally wouldn't have put new pistons in my motor unless I wasn't doing what I was doing with it. I have a custom compression ratio and I don't think that I could have pulled it off with a stock piston. As Dee said before, look at your goals before you start throwing forged internals at it...

[Master_Tao]

ok, maybe this will help then, I'm looking to get 350-400 hp out of my engine. I've read that is possible on stock internals but would the forged be a better option?

[8ggalant]

Save your money man by just cleaning up the bore and replacing all 4 pistons with good condition stockers. Too many members in the CA community pull the "Monkey see, monkey do" thing and go for a rebuild when in all actuality they fail to realize that stock setup is more than capable of handling what most of them plan to dish out.

I knew what was wrong with that engine long before you owned. When a person advertises a blown CA or any turbo engine for that matter, it usually means that that individual got stupid with boost on an otherwise stock fuel system (ie 370cc injectors, stock ecu, stock afm, and stock T25) and go out and try to sustain better than 15psi. Oh it'll let you do it for a minute and it feels so good then "Boom" smoke out the tail pipe, a dead cylinder or two and a you've just screwed your JDM CA18 up real good.

Dee

im glad u posted this...the main reason im getting a ca is to be different...honestly if i was going for horsepower i would have chosen a diff powerplant...i know the motor is capable..i just would go a diff route...that being said and not to stray to far off topic (yes i searched...maybe not hard enough) where can i find the new/used oem pistons??

[Master_Tao]

im glad u posted this...the main reason im getting a ca is to be different...honestly if i was going for horsepower i would have chosen a diff powerplant...i know the motor is capable..i just would go a diff route...that being said and not to stray to far off topic (yes i searched...maybe not hard enough) where can i find the new/used oem pistons??

yeah, are these what we need? http://www.trademotion.com/par...gid=1Oh yeah, where did you guys buy your bearings? can I get them at autozone or do I need to special order them?
Modified by Master_Tao at 1:09 PM 1/18/2005

[biosehnsucht]

You can get OEM (altho it seems everyone who does is given the wrnog size) or go 'aftermarket' i.e. autozone/oreilly's etc..

I've seen the clevite stuff, it looks like ****. The Federal Mogul ones look niiiice. I got the clevites off ebay and they wre wrong size, the FM's I got from Oreilly's

[boost_boy]

im glad u posted this...the main reason im getting a ca is to be different...honestly if i was going for horsepower i would have chosen a diff powerplant...i know the motor is capable..i just would go a diff route...that being said and not to stray to far off topic (yes i searched...maybe not hard enough) where can i find the new/used oem pistons??

I'm pretty sure sure some of the members around here have spares. I have an extra set of both turbo and non-turbo pistons and rods. I still recommend changing the rings and rod bearings.

Dee

[Master_Tao]

I'm pretty sure sure some of the members around here have spares. I have an extra set of both turbo and non-turbo pistons and rods. I still recommend changing the rings and rod bearings.

Dee

I'm deffinatly changing all the bearings. How much do you want for the turbo pistons? And I'm still waiting to hear what the difference is between turbo and non turbo pistons, if any. but yeah, hit me up at [email protected] if you wanna get rid of those turbo pistons.

[NeedCAforS13]

Dee, I want a set of rods and if he doesn't buy them the turbo pistons please I have Kevin's head, and my old block... i'd like to finish that second motor of mine!

Sean

[boost_boy]

Sean,

Make me an offer on the rods!

Dee