Just thought I'd pass along what I learned. Over the summer I installed a Hayden 679 transmission cooler, it's 11" x 11 5/8" x 3/4" and was plumbed in-line with the radiator based CVT cooler on my 2014 Rogue.

Install involved taking off the Nissan grill, the cooler zip-tied through the condenser and radiator. I didn't remove the bumper, or the fans, I zip tied through them and then cut the excess of the tie off and there is plenty of clearance for the fan blades. On the passenger side of the radiator there is plenty of room to run the lines and the transmission feed if there as well. I did not need any supplies other than some CVT fluid to reset the fluid level post install. It would be easier to do if you remove the bumper and the fan but I think it's still faster if you work with the limited clearance. It's not a difficult install, just tedious. After the cooler is mounted and the lines are run you hook up the lines from below, long needle nose pliers will be very helpful here.

My routing is as follows: Transmission -> Hayden CVT cooler -> radiator based cooler -> Transmission | I've plumed it like this to allow the fluid to pick up temperature from the radiator in case the cooler removes too much heat.

Pre-install cvtz50 was showing temperatures of 175-221F (80C-105C) not that at 221F I'd usually pull over and let it cool down if possible. Post-install it is showing 104F to 175F (40C-80C), never needed to pull over to cool down.

I did the install as we tow a teardrop RV 4-5 times a year and the higher end temperatures are from this, and before you say anything I am well aware this is not recommended. The 175F post install temperate was from towing the RV in 90+ F ambient. Since I'm in Canada and it gets cold, I intend to cover half it he lower grill to block the airflow to the cooler in winter as I don't think the CVT would generate enough heat to maintain operating temperate with this additional cooler added in our -35F/C winters. In hindsight the 679 cooler is on the large side and mounted directly in the airflow but it accomplishes what I needed.

Feel free to ask any questions, I will try to answer to the best of my knowledge. So far the cooler has been running for 6 month with no issues - can't even tell it's there except for the lower temps.

Price: all in cost me $60 Canadian for the cooler from RockAuto, 3 quarts of CVT fluid, 2 beers, and 4 hours of time including drinking the beers and working leisurely. I'm sure you could do it in 2 hours if you put your mind to it.

Hey Peter, if you're still around thank you for your post!

I'm thinking of doing the same thing to a 2018 Qashqai (Rogue Sport). There are 3 main things holding me back, the first of which you may be able to help with:

1) Determining the inlet/outlet lines from the CVT transmission. Can you advise which line was the outlet line from the transmission on your Rogue?

2) Refilling the CVT transmission. I keep going over the posts I've found for the filling procedure but it still isn't entirely clear in my mind. Hopefully it will eventually make sense.

3) My wife. Man, she is not keen on me touching her vehicle!

Cheers, fwttg

I also am trying to upgrade the transmission oil cooling system similar to yours, by installing an extra radiator. However I am also trying to upgrade the old two port transmission oil cooler to a four port. Have you done this or know anyone who has? It has taken me forever to find one compatible with my make and model. Now trying to figure out how to get to it on the engine.

I'm just in the consideration/planning stage so I haven't added an auxiliary cooler yet. My 2018 Qashqai comes with an upgraded 4 port 'beehive' and radiator based cooler. Adding an extra cooler like PeterH_605 and others would give me peace of mind for short towing to the lumberyard, dump, etc.

You've probably seen this thread and a few similar: cvt-auxiliary-cooler-install-t598905.html If not, they might help you a bit as the Qashqai/Rogue Sport are smaller versions of the Rogue.

TeamOK wrote: ↑

Fri May 21, 2021 8:20 pm

I also am trying to upgrade the transmission oil cooling system similar to yours, by installing an extra radiator. However I am also trying to upgrade the old two port transmission oil cooler to a four port. Have you done this or know anyone who has? It has taken me forever to find one compatible with my make and model. Now trying to figure out how to get to it on the engine.

Not sure why you'd want to do that along with an add-on cooler. The reason for the 4-port is primarily to warm the CVT faster by tapping flow from the heater circuit, not to cool it better. You'll be doing an awful lot of plumbing for little or no benefit.

You know I was wondering about that too but just got caught up in trying to get this vehicle to where I could drive it for more than 6 hours and it wouldn't start acting up on me . I found "this" websites maintenance manuals link and discovered how to do this job and get to the cooler . I had to put back the battery tray etc. and with a motor mount in the way I said enough. Looks like you just remove the left front wheel well and the grill to get to the work area. I appreciate your input on the cooler. The new 4 port cooler is smaller then the original Beehive 2 port. It was suggested in some of the research I have done to replace the small filter beneath the cooler . I have that part (filter) and still think that would be a good idea , but stay with the original 2 port beehive . I guess I would just keep the 4 port as a paper weight (ha-ha) . What do you think ?
Thanks VStar650CL

TeamOK wrote: ↑

Sat May 22, 2021 9:57 am

It was suggested in some of the research I have done to replace the small filter beneath the cooler . I have that part (filter) and still think that would be a good idea , but stay with the original 2 port beehive . I guess I would just keep the 4 port as a paper weight (ha-ha) . What do you think ?

Yep, replacing the filter is a good idea. So is the paperweight, you won't get any real benefit from the 4-port. The heater circuit gets circulation before the main thermostat opens so you can heat the cabin quickly, and the 4-port takes advantage of that for faster warmup. There's no other real advantage to it, so unless you live in North Snowsallyear, my advice is stick with the 2-port.

VStar650CL - I am going to start removing of the front end and get going on this project today . For the life of me I cannot get an idea of the input and output line off the transmission and the beehive cooler for and in-series installation . I am hopeing once I open it up and clear things out I'll be able to deduce that. If you have any tips or advice on that please let me know.

Okay, I guess my memory isn't what it used to be. I was under the impression the Rogue Selects already had mods for trans cooler lines to the radiator from the case, but Identifix suggests they don't. So you will need the 4-port after all. You should already have a thermostat in the coolant plumbing so it won't be too difficult on that side. Give me about an hour and I'll post some diagrams.

Identifix isn't giving me much love on a 4-port diagram, but the flush and service stuff indicates the coolant side is open loop and it shouldn't matter which side you hook to the outlet and which side goes to the 'stat. No doubt I could get better info from ASIST but I can't access that on a Sunday. I think you'll have to find the direction on the hydraulic side the old fashioned way, start the car for half a sec with a rag over the ports and see which side spits.

Oh ...ok well that is good to know , and I can put my $40 paperweight to work. I have the front end off and am going to try to post a picture of the beehive cooler. The bulge in the tubing must be the thermostat as you mentioned . Thanks for your input . I can finish this up tomorrow and have other vehicles to drive .

I tried to send a pic but have got the hang of this yet.

Yep, the bulge will be the 'stat. This diagram should be right for your existing setup, but I can't find one like it for the 4-port.

Well here is a photo link to the beehive cooler. I got your diagram and will have to study it . Thank you for taking the time to send me all this information on a Sunday afternoon. I may just back off for now and start fresh tomorrow .

My Qashqai (2015) which is UK build came with the secondary cooler, factory installed, not sure what they use to fix it to the front of the radiator but don't think they use zip ties. It also use a 4 -port in/out for the fluid.
No issue being reported for the transmission for this model so far. Strange that they don't install this secondary cooler worldwide since obviously it is needed.
FYI, it is fixed more or less in the center of the larger radiator.

localTradey : Yes it would have been nice to include it on the AWD 2014 Rogue , but if it makes sense they don't do that here.

VStar650CL: There is no existing oil lines plumbing;It's all internal on the existing 2 port CVT Oill cooler. As you suggested I need to install the new four port then crank for 10 and see which small ports the oil comes out of . But I'm thinking it should not matter which one of the two lines going to the new radiator(?) ; just like for the water it shouldn't matter which way those lines hook up...whatever is most convenient to route & plumb as there no directional radiator connections . I am probably going to need one brass line to line connector for a water line so I am off to the auto parts store. I am just running this by you because this simple little challenge is really taxing my retired 67 year old mind.

So I have the old part off and the the new part does not fit (Amazon special) ! Called around the dealer only has two ports , and does not list four ports !? WTF

I installed a cooler in 2020 because of heat induced performance issues, including two times due to "protection activation". I had to swap the two pipe "warmer" for the four pipe beehive that you get with the tow package. When installed, the oil outlet is on top and the return is on the side. I also used 11/32 oil cooler hose instead of the 3/8 that came with the beehive. Used o-ring lubricant to help it slip on. The difference is amazing, no more stuck in high gear at stop light because the tranny is too hot on ninety degree days. I should have done this years ago but better late than never. I have 208k on the original tranny in my '09 and it has never worked better. It is a crime that the cooler was not installed standard, it would have avoided a lot of grief and a major knock on Nissan brand due to CVT issues.

glaze182 wrote: ↑

Mon May 24, 2021 1:06 pm

It is a crime that the cooler was not installed standard, it would have avoided a lot of grief and a major knock on Nissan brand due to CVT issues.

Big second on that!

Hey, do you have a p/n for that tow-package beehive to help out TeamOK? I can't seem to locate it in DPC.

So I ordered another flavor of the upgraded four port from Amazon (different mfg) that shows an OEM P/N of 21606-1XF0A, 56191081 so I went with it and it should be here by Thurs.

TeamOK wrote: ↑

Mon May 24, 2021 9:40 am

I'm thinking it should not matter which one of the two lines going to the new radiator(?) ; just like for the water it shouldn't matter which way those lines hook up...whatever is most convenient to route & plumb as there no directional radiator connections

I think it may matter to the kit, I recall the Hayden I installed on my wife's '13 Altie specified an in and an out.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Mon May 24, 2021 5:14 pm

TeamOK wrote: ↑

Mon May 24, 2021 9:40 am

I'm thinking it should not matter which one of the two lines going to the new radiator(?) ; just like for the water it shouldn't matter which way those lines hook up...whatever is most convenient to route & plumb as there no directional radiator connections

I think it may matter to the kit, I recall the Hayden I installed on my wife's '13 Altie specified an in and an out.

VStar650CL - I gather you're a technician as I have seen many qualified and intelligent posts from you. I have a query for you regarding this cooler issue:

My vehicle is a 2013 Rogue S, USA model. Not plumbed or bracketed for a cooler. CVT temp can hit 215F in the summer, especially when climbing hills. I bought the 4 port cooler adapter and intend to install a Hayden cooler as well. Question: Would it make sense to put a 12V motorized ball valve in line with the cooler input so the cooler flow can be turned off when not needed (i.e in winter)?

Also - Can you share anything about the CVT fluid condition status number picked up by the CVTz50 app and Nissan Connect? The manual says the fluid can go to 200k units. I find that hard to believe. Thanks for your help...

Paul

phmichel wrote: ↑

Wed May 26, 2021 4:07 pm

VStar - I gather you're a technician as I have seen many qualified and intelligent posts from you. I have a query for you regarding this cooler issue:

My vehicle is a 2013 Rogue S, USA model. Not plumbed or bracketed for a cooler. CVT temp can hit 215F in the summer, especially when climbing hills. I bought the 4 port cooler adapter and intend to install a Hayden cooler as well. Question: Would it make sense to put a 12V motorized ball valve in line with the cooler input so the cooler flow can be turned off when not needed (winter)?

Also - what can you share about the CVT fluid condition status number found on the CVTz50 app and Nissan Connect? The manual says the fluid can go to 200k units. I find that hard to believe.

Yes, I'm a Master Tech, Nissan and ASE. I just don't advertise it unless people ask. My first sensai taught me that outside the dojo, the black belt wraps his ghi with the white belt. Humility matters, a good lesson that I took to heart.

You're right to be scared of 215F temperatures, that's too high. Fresh fluid will handle 240F but breakdown is very accelerated when you go much above 200F. Vis the fluid status numbers in the TCM, I have zero faith in them. My customers are all used to hearing me say, "Just change the dang fluid."

You're basically in the same boat as TeamOK from an installation standpoint, so a series installation should do a good job without any fancy valving. The thermostatic valve on the coolant outlet will indirectly govern the temperature based on how much heat is being exchanged, so there's already some regulation built in. Keep in mind that regulation is what you really want. Closing off flow in the winter won't allow the beehive to warm the fluid, which will cause accelerated wear. Not as bad as overheating, but still bad. That's why I don't recommend capping the beehive coolant lines and relying solely on the rad cooler. You could, but you'll run too cool. The idea is to get the temperature up to normal quickly, but once it gets there, prevent excessive heat. Chaining the cooler to the beehive in series accomplishes that, allowing the beehive to do its job warming the fluid but allowing the cooler to dump excess heat to atmosphere and protect against cooling system failures. Our '13 Altima generally runs a nice 150~170 no matter what the conditions, and that's exactly the setup we have.

My part arrived this afternoon and compared it to the footprint of the old beehive cooler putting them back to back. They didn't match !But I still had to give it a try before I bagged it up for return . Lo and behold it fit! It will plumb in with the existing water lines . The other two ports for oil are positioned favorably to plumb into the external radiator. Funny how the other part that did not fit, passed the Amazon "This fits your car" deal ,and this other one that worked said "This doesn't fit your car" but I bought it any way because I could see it more closely resembled my old beehive cooler I took off.
Got some bad weather her tonight so I don't know how much I will get done.
@ VStar650CL- When I take a 6in square ruler and run it across the mounting base on the engine for the oil cooler it comes into contact with the new oil filter I installed . I have tried to seat the new filter as much as I can , even re-installing the old cooler & snugging it down to see if that would fully seat the filter , and the outcome would be no obstruction to the ruler when I did my ruler over the base check later after removing the cooler. It's not much but it is noticeable . What do you think!

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Wed May 26, 2021 4:49 pm

Chaining the cooler to the beehive in series accomplishes that, allowing the beehive to do its job warming the fluid but allowing the cooler to dump excess heat to atmosphere and protect against cooling system failures. Our '13 Altima generally runs a nice 150~170 no matter what the conditions, and that's exactly the setup we have.

Just wanted to add, I have my coolers chained. Being in Canada for the winter season, I just block the grill portion in-front of my transmission cooler with cardboard or plastic. I checked the temperatures on a -40F day, I make it up to the 105F range for the cvt which is fairly reasonable in my opinion. So the odds running too cold are much easier managed than running too hot.

TeamOK wrote: ↑

Thu May 27, 2021 3:30 pm

@ VStar650CL- When I take a 6in square ruler and run it across the mounting base on the engine for the oil cooler it comes into contact with the new oil filter I installed . I have tried to seat the new filter as much as I can , even re-installing the old cooler & snugging it down to see if that would fully seat the filter , and the outcome would be no obstruction to the ruler when I did my ruler over the base check later after removing the cooler. It's not much but it is noticeable . What do you think!

I think I'll need to see a pic, but if I understand you correctly, ordinarily I'd say it won't be a problem as long as the interference doesn't cause leaks in the beehive o-rings. The only time that might cause an issue is if the cooler line gets blocked and the rings see full pump pressure, but that's a pretty unlikely scenario.

I signed up on ImageShack . There is a learning curve here for uploading pictures . I have tried but my AQ adversity quotient is about maxed out for the day. Time for adult beverages ..............

Easiest thing I found is to use an attachment, there's a tab at the bottom in "Full Editor and Preview". The only thing is there's a size limit, so I just use Paint or PhotoFiltre to reduce the image size. About 1500 pixels on the long axis will give pretty good viewability but keep it under the size limit.

Ok here is a pic and this is a new filter. I bought one from two autostores to try them out. This one looks like the other one.This one I had to really press on and push . I think I would have to destroy it getting it back off . I can place the straight edge on top of the filter and push it down to where it is level with the mounting flange easy enough . It just normally sets kind of high. I lubed the filter with o-ring lube and blood from a burr my finger caught on the inside. Anyway let me know what you think VStar650CL.