Some of this is posted in another thread but I thought it would benefit anyone concerned about their CVT transmissions.
We have a 2010 NIssan Rogue. The CVT transmission was replaced under warranty at 85K miles. Thanks NIssan! Things were doing fine after that until around 135K. We have a long uphill drive about 35 miles of which 5 miles is a steep grade. By the end of that climb the transmission started whining just as it did before the original CVT went south. The temperature was in the 70s which is cool in Arizona so I figured the tranny fluid must be getting hot. In my other post I added a Hayden Tranny cooler ($60) before I found out that there was no way to get the fluid to the cooler because the stock cooler only accepts coolant which is supposed to cool the part in which the fluid runs through dissipating the heat. Under most conditions this seems adequate unless you drive in a lot of heat or extended uphills. So I ended up hooking the cooler to the coolant lines in hopes that reducing the coolant temp would help. It didn't.

SLCSLUGGER did some research and found out that the CVT cooler block (one with separate coolant and transmission fluid ports) was available from NIssan for $320. I purchased mine from newautoparts.com for $229+shipping and it fit perfectly. I put the original coolant lines back in place and ran the transmission fluid lines out to the cooler and took the Rogue for a test drive up the dreaded hill.

At the end of the uphill drive from Phoenix there was no whining even going uphill at 80mph. I would recommend this $300 fix to anyone who is interested in extending the life of their CVT.

http://img209.imagevenue.com/img.php?im ... _132lo.JPG
http://img121.imagevenue.com/img.php?im ... _421lo.JPG
http://img172.imagevenue.com/img.php?im ... _188lo.JPG
http://img245.imagevenue.com/img.php?im ... _183lo.JPG

Looks like a great solution to a potentially costly and or dangerous problem. Do you have any information on the part numbers for the cooler block ? I'm not seeing it called out separately on either the website you referenced or at Nissan.

Look at the post from slcslugger from this thread:
cooling-issue-after-auxiliary-cvt-coole ... 92948.html

Here is the link from Newautoparts:
http://www.newautoparts.com/nissan/oe-nissan/216061xf0a

The price has gone up a little but since it worked for me I think it was well worth it.

jtz54, how did you bolt up the hayden cooler? Was it just on one side (middle pillar)? How many bolts? Is this secure enough? Which Hayden part # did you use?

Also, can I just bypass the cooler block altogether and reroute the transmission oil lines directly to the hayden cooler? This would save me $200+ by deleting the cooler block. I would imagine the hayden aux cooler is way effective in cooling and the cooler block won't really be necessary.

See this thread for additional info: cooling-issue-after-auxiliary-cvt-coole ... 92948.html

Two bolts hold the Hayden cooler from the opposite side from the in/out. One bolt to the frame and I made a simple L-bracket to the bumper mount for the second. I used the Hayden cooler that was listed for the Rogue although I'm seriously considering putting a larger one as the weather warms up here in AZ. There is no doubt in my mind that this fix is the way to go because on my 10 mile uphill drive it has eliminated the overheating whine from the CVT in normal weather. I have a slight whine during the same drive as the temp nears 100 so the consideration for the bigger cooler.

You can't bypass the cooler because the stock cooling block has no in/out for tranny fluid. Those are in/out for the coolant which cools the block and the tranny fluid going through it. It doesn't work well in warm weather or hard driving. The new block listed has four tubes two each for coolant and tranny fluid. Hope this info helps.

jtz54,

Thanks for the info regarding the cooling block. I guess no choice but to get the 4 port equivalent from Nissan in order to complete this mod.

Your link to the Hayden cooler is part # 1679. According to spec, it is sized 9 7/8 x 11 x 3/4

In that case, this part #678 is similar spec and should also work: 3/4 inch x 11 inch x 9-1/2 inch
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C3DDKO/

The original Nissan trans cooler is just too expensive and I am looking for other alternatives.

If you go for bigger trans cooler, would that affect your engine cooling since now you are covering a larger area of the main cooler? Is there a drawback to getting the biggest that can fit our Rogue?

I've ordered the biggest one #679 from Amazon. Will let you know how it works. I doubt it will affect anything else since there are no cooling issues with this engine. Either way, if this was available earlier I would've done it and probably saved some wear on the current transmission.

How hard is it to install this? I just checked my Rogue and it looks like I just need to take out the plastic top for the air intake, battery and the front bumper. Is there a torque spec for tightening back the cooling block?

I was thinking of just buying the official Nissan kit to make it exact fit but I cannot find the size of their trans cooler radiator. I'm afraid the Nissan one is not as effective as the aftermarket.

This is a good and cheaper alternative right here and complete with instructions:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271881829811

That looks good. Too bad it wasn't out when I bought my adapter.
Just swapped the recommended Hayden Cooler for a #679 which is the largest they make of this series. About 25% larger. Thought about running them in series but I'll try this one first. It was 104 in Phoenix yesterday and the Rogue was whining a little driving uphill to Prescott. I'm hoping the larger cooler will prevent any whining.

kots1 wrote:This is a good and cheaper alternative right here and complete with instructions:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271881829811

Thanks for the link!

Experienced a temporary power loss in my wife's 2009 Rogue w/69k mi on it, did a search, ended up here. I contacted the seller of that plate and asked:

"How is the fluid routed? Trans out>cooler>heat exchanger>trans in? Or trans out>heat exchanger>cooler>trans in?
Is the hose that comes with the Hayden 678 enough for the project, or is more needed? If so, how much more? How did you measure the temperature drop?"

Seller replied:

"Hi, cvt fluid out from trans to oem warmer to external air to air exchanger back to trans. Temps are measured with standalone temp probe. That particular hayden kit has just enough for a rogue install. i would get an extra 3 feet of trans rated line."

Decided to order the adapter plate, Hayden 678, upper and lower brackets, fluid for a drain & fill, drain plug gaskets, and 10 ft of 3/8" hose. I hate having to stop a project to go get more stuff so I ordered plenty of hose. Also I've had problems in other trans cooler installs forcing 11/32 hose on, so I prefer 3/8".

Plate already came in and it's a good looking part. Waiting on rest of parts to arrive, then will have to see about scheduling time for the install.

So it's 100+ in Phoenix and while driving uphill to Prescott, the Rogue with the larger #679 cooler is better than with the #678 cooler. At the top of the grade the tranny was barely starting to whine but still a huge improvement over no external cooler. I would recommend to anyone with a CVT.

Just some tips on the install that I wished I knew.
1) take out air intake - remove 3 screws, wiggle out the top air intake
2) pull the cylindrical air intake coming from the fender area
2) take out bumper - 4+ push pins on top, 4+ push pins on bottom, 2 x T20 torx and 2 x 10 mm (not exactly sure on the size) on each side.
3) take out battery
4) take out battery tray - the bolts was on tight and not enough room for a breaker bar. I used an impact wrench (used for removing tire lug nuts).
5) take out four bolts from the oem cooler. the bottom right would be the hardest to take out because of the tight space. I would start with this one first so you can quickly remove the remaining bolts w/o loosing too much fluid. Bottom right bolt can be accessed from the fender area side. I cannot find any torque spec for these 4 oil cooler bolts so just feel it and snug - not too tight since it wasn't tight in the first place when I unscrewed it.

according to the ebay description, you might need to unplug the coolant lines to give some slack and insert that plate in between. I went with the OEM Rogue Cooler kit so I cannot tell exactly the procedure for this alternative solution.

When you route two new hoses to the front radiator, make sure they don't rub anything from the vibration. You'll wear out and damage the hose eventually from constant vibration.

There are some bolt holes underneath the bottom bumper for the bracket. Just remove the covering at the bottom. I didn't notice this until I looked hard enough.

Lastly, I was only short half quart CVT fluid after this install. I lost some coolant fluid which I refilled with tap water in the reservoir (or distilled water if your tap water is too hard with minerals).

jtz54 wrote:So it's 100+ in Phoenix and while driving uphill to Prescott, the Rogue with the larger #679 cooler is better than with the #678 cooler. At the top of the grade the tranny was barely starting to whine but still a huge improvement over no external cooler. I would recommend to anyone with a CVT.

Good to know that a bigger tranny cooler helped. I went with the OEM cooler kit instead of Hayden. I was able to score a complete kit for $300+ tax on eBay. They were all sold out now for that price. I also added a fan blowing to this mini-radiator because I feel like the size is not substantial enough to cool it down fast enough. ImStricken also did the radiator fan install on his Rogue and that was really his idea to begin with. You may want to consider this setup too to help with your CVT whine. I installed it few days after my cooler kit install and didn't have to remove the bumper to do it.

the fan works great so far. if i was to install an aux cooler, the fan would be mandatory. it deff has quieted down the whine.

angel71rs wrote:Decided to order the adapter plate, Hayden 678, upper and lower brackets, fluid for a drain & fill, drain plug gaskets, and 10 ft of 3/8" hose. I hate having to stop a project to go get more stuff so I ordered plenty of hose. Also I've had problems in other trans cooler installs forcing 11/32 hose on, so I prefer 3/8".

Well, wife decided to trade her Rogue in on a new Corolla. Would have been nice if she had told me she was considering a new car before I got all this stuff.

So I won't be able to report how this plate fit, if addition took care of issue, etc. On bright side, don't have to go through hassle of install. But now I have all these parts I don't need... soooo look forward to the joy of Ebaying this stuff.

angel71rs wrote:Would have been nice if she had told me she was considering a new car before I got all this stuff.

not cool man....

Yeah, I know, sucks, but she's a good egg, I'll let her make it up to me this weekend.

Thought I'd throw it up on here first if any members want to save some $$$ on a complete kit:

cvt-auxiliary-cooler-install-kit-rogue- ... 01973.html

Is there a transmission cooler kit for a 2014? I just had the cvt replaced at 65,000 miles.
Failure was definitely heat related as troubles started after 2 hours on a hilly interstate.

IMPORTANT INFO:

As the temps got hotter here in AZ (110+) I noticed the whining back as I'm coming up the hill. I've been using the Eneos CVT fluid from Amazon which was advertised as "Synthetic". After re-reading the container I find out that it's a synthetic blend and not fully synthetic. Ordered the Red Line Fully Synthetic CVT fluid (compatable with Nissan NS-2&3). Drained and re-filled the tranny and took the weekly drive back up the hill in 115 degree heat. NO WHINING was evident on the same drive so the tranny cooler and Red Line fully synthetic CVT fluid fixes the heat issue with the CVT.

1st generation Rogue owners, does your Rogue have the optional auxiliary transmission cooler? And if so have you experienced the CVT issues, or warranted modifications to the cooler?

TheBiffCunningham wrote:1st generation Rogue owners, does your Rogue have the optional auxiliary transmission cooler? And if so have you experienced the CVT issues, or warranted modifications to the cooler?

i had it installed from the factory. ( all cars with paddle shifters did)

TheBiffCunningham wrote:1st generation Rogue owners, does your Rogue have the optional auxiliary transmission cooler? And if so have you experienced the CVT issues, or warranted modifications to the cooler?

Same as ImStricken, I've got the paddle shifters so mine came with the trans cooler. No problems so far (knocks on wood). I did a fluid drain/fill at about 50K

TheBiffCunningham wrote:1st generation Rogue owners, does your Rogue have the optional auxiliary transmission cooler? And if so have you experienced the CVT issues, or warranted modifications to the cooler?

I have an '08 without the air-to-oil cooler. The first tranny was shot at 57k miles. The new tranny only went into limp mode once, but has whined like a spoiled toddler on most drives lasting longer than 45 minutes. A fluid change mitigated the worst of the noises, but they began creeping back after 10k.

I'm seriously considering trying to do this upgrade before summer roles around, but hitting some snags. The cooler with oil ports is up to about $500 now and the dude on EBay seems to have stopped selling the adapter plate.

Thinking I might be able to get the cooler from a Compasss or Juke with the Jatco tranny to work for closer to $150-200. The oil inlet outlet holes are drilled in slightly different spots and the plumbing might require some finagling, but the tranny filter housing and bolt holes appear to be the same. Any input much appreciated.
Parts in consideration: B1606-JM01A or 21606-1XF0A or 68025160AA
Haven't looked into Mitsubishi's Jatcos yet, but they might be next on my list.

I have a 2010 rogue with trans issues. I am having trouble finding the cooling block.
Does anybody have the part number for it.

The part # for our Rogues is B1606-JM01A best I can tell from reading all these posts.

Added an external cooler to the cooling system of the CVT...but not the way I would have liked to have done it. I placed the external cooler 'in-line' with the existing anti-freeze fluid line that is attached to the cooler block. This only 'cools' the anti-freeze and not the transmission fluid directly like the proper process would have done... if I had the 'updated' cooler block with the extra tubes attached.
I did not want to pay the local dealership $750.00 for the cooling kit (including updated cooler block) so I did the second best thing and hooked it up 'in-line' with the anti-freeze line. If I can find a 'less expensive' up-dated cooler block later on then I can just switch the lines to the new cooler block.
However, during my research I did come across some information that pointed to two existing bolts(plugs) on the cvt that can possibly be used to run the extra cooling lines to an external cooler instead of using the 'up-dated' cooling block....I say 'possibly'. If it can be done and doesn't harm the operation of the cvt then this could save some $$$.??
I'll be looking further into this this coming weekend when I have more time to track down some hardware fittings.

Hello all,

I am a new owner of a 2013 Nissan Rogue Crossover ( that can barely cross over a hill)
I have not even put 1k miles on this 2013 with 51k miles and am realizing there is a serious issue with the transmission.

JTZ54, thank you sir for all of your shared information I hope all your CVT problems are solved.

I went to the dealer this am as the car is still within warranty. The dealer said they would need to run 2hours of diagnostic test (@ $120/H) to see if they could reproduce the problem. I told them that they wouldn't be able to unless they ran this thing hot for at least 2 hours and tried driving it uphill, they of course said that would cost more and seeing as there are no hills in metro NYC they would have about 5 hours of testing time to actually encounter the problem.
Next step would be to call the warranty hotline to see if they would cover the repair, if so, I guess this means a new transmission with the same problem and I get reimbursed, if not, I'm already out some serious cash just to confirm there is a problem I have already experienced.

I did bring up the B1606-JM01A kit to the dealer ( he looked at me with an "oh s***" look on his face) and then told me if I went that route it would be 2 hours @ 120 labor plus 635 for the parts to install this kit.

I know dealers are more expensive and sometimes worth it but this process seems like a total cash grab to have what at best can be described as a manufacturers defect and/or design flaw fixed.

My question I hope someone can answer is should I just straight up buy the B1606-JM01A kit for roughly 475 online and have it installed by my local mechanic or roll the dice with the dealer? Additionally I am seeing different coolers being used, in your opinions what are the winning combinations to solve this problem?
thanks all!

@MarkusD, I would go to another dealer. They are going to charge you $600 to drive around for 5 hours!! f*** them. They can hook up their scan tool and tell you if something is wrong with the transmission. You should only be charged 1 hour diag fee.
What dealership is this?

MarkusD, I would look into an extended warranty of an extra 60,000 miles (120,000 total) that was offered to owners of cvt tranny if not over original 60,000 miles and the transmission oil was not replaced by anyone other than dealership or warranty of tranny will be invalid. If able to receive extra miles then just keep driving car until the tranny breaks completely down...not able to move in any gear or reverse. Then dealership/Nissan will replace (not rebuild) tranny free if not over the total 120,000 miles. This is exactly what happen to me at exactly 100,000 mile and on a 300 miles trip...long distance drive heats up and destorys these trannys.
If not able to receive the extra miles coverage ask 'why not'!
Don't bother spending more money than you have to on dealership diagnostics cost if the problem is not present. That's where they make back some of their money. The tranny needs to be 'broken' (not able to move car in any gear) before they will admit to any responsibility for repair.
Now you can just pay dealership to put the external cooler kit on and hope it works but I would still try for the extra miles warranty. If you have someone else put the cooler kit on besides the dealership then I bet the dealership/Nissan will not honor the warranty.
If you decide to do this on your own then:
The cooler 'inset' or plate is available on Ebay from time to time ( I just bought one and should arrive this weekend) cost between 130.00 and 150.00 (...don't know why?? I watched item and eventually paid 130). Everything else will have to be purchased (radiator, hoses, clamps,oil fluid, etc.) as well. ( I bought Hayden 678 cooler kit from local PePBoys for 60 or 70 and will not use any other brackets. I believe I can make this work without brackets.Bought Nissan oil 1qt @ $20.00...yikes!!)
Sorry for long post. Hope this info helps you and others. Good luck!