took the block to the machine shop today!

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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fiznat
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not that you guys could really be all that interested in my project that you follow every single step, but I took the block + parts to the machine shop today!! I picked Carlquist Motors, a very well known shop around these parts-- and I talked to the guy a bunch of times, seems like a really cool, knowledgable dude.

Here's my goodie list with prices:

Magnaflux Rods: $40 (I'm using stockers)Rods Resize: $60Bore + Hone: $150Deck: $100File Fit rings, Shortblock Assembly: $150O-Ring block, matching groove in head: $75Crank Polished: $40Full Balance, including Clutch + Flywheel: $150Hot Tank/Paint (black) the block: $70

I'm getting it assembled with brand new Clevite bearings, and an entire Felpro gasket set of course... Pistons are Ross 8.5:1 .20 over forgies.

Not bad prices at all, especially for such a well known engine builder. The guy said they couldnt even touch the block for a couple weeks, but I dont mind waiting.

Anyways, just a little update from my KA-T build! I hope you are all as excited as I am!! :D :D :D


Nathan
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Congratulations :) I eagerly await more updates!

DAEDALUS
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Whoa, isn't your block aluminum? If so I hope he's not going to really hot tank it. Maybe jet wash? How much are you taking off the block and heads?

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fiznat
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The KA has an iron block ;)

what do you mean how much am I taking off? as far as p+p and decking, or just cleaning wise?

DAEDALUS
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I meant decking. Looking forward to the finished product.

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Schfifty-5
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Good luck with all of that. Hope that he doesn't take that long because I can't wait to see it. I know that you can't wait!!!

Deadeye 5.1
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Congrats! Mine goes off to Mancini Machine in the next week or two (I gotta decide on pistons and rings) Im not going to do much other than a hell of an overbore and crank/flywheel balancing.

Let us know how it turns out.

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sil80drifter
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what's rod resize? how does it work?

sil80

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fiznat
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If the rods are really worn, around the ends there is a chance that they will wobble or simply be too big. Resizing mills a few thousands of an inch out of the wall where the split in the big rod cap is, so that when you tighten the rod up, there is slightly farther for it to squeeze into... its kinda hard to explain... like if you cut a wedge out of a donut, you could squeeze the 2 ends together tighter and make a smaller circle inside. This is used for rods that are really worn (which I doubt my 1997 ones are...), but it's on the price list in case he thinks it's necessary.

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sil80drifter
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ohhh... cool :)

sil80

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WDRacing
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I was up in Boston all last week...We should have had some beers.

Brian

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sil80drifter
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well maybe u should tell ppl when u go to boston! me and fiznat are like... an hour away if we go realy fast.

sil80

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WDRacing
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You didn't get the memo??

Deadeye 5.1
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Hey WD, Im going to be in Tuscon visiting the rents in July. Think you might have some manifolds by then? I'd really like to see what you're building as I'm in the market for one right now.

ultimatuc
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ka rods cannot be magnafluxed. theyre aluminum. you may want to ask your machinist why he is charging you for something that cant be done. maybe he was talking about the block, or crank...........

can you explain "rod resizing"?

cool project.

TrunkMonkey
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ultimatuc wrote:ka rods cannot be magnafluxed. theyre aluminum.
KA rods are forged steel.

-demetrius

TrunkMonkey
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fiznat wrote:If the rods are really worn, around the ends there is a chance that they will wobble or simply be too big. Resizing mills a few thousands of an inch out of the wall where the split in the big rod cap is, so that when you tighten the rod up, there is slightly farther for it to squeeze into... its kinda hard to explain... like if you cut a wedge out of a donut, you could squeeze the 2 ends together tighter and make a smaller circle inside.
almost.

a small amount of material is milled off the rod end cap then reinstalled on the rod itself. the big end bore is then honed back to a perfect circle.

keep in mind, resizing shortens the length of the connecting rod. imo, new oem rods can be had for too cheap to even consider having an old rod resized.

-demetrius

ultimatuc
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totaly my bad. someone told me they were aluminum......

bcuz
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thanks a lot.. this really helps me get an idea of what I should be paying.. now I wont get ripped off..

andrave
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some of those prices are kind of high, but really if its a good shop its worth paying a little more. And its worth pointing out that a lot of people won't need all the stuff you had done. Especialy O ringing the block. Decking, resizing rods, and polishing the crank, would only be necessary if your block was in bad shape. Short block assembly is valuable though, for 150 I'd say its worth it. And I dunno, my OEM nissan rings fit perfectly in the middle of the factory recommendations without any filing.

slipnfall
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fiz, How many miles were on this 97 DE? Also just out of curiosity, how was the bearing wear on the mains? Did you have to go oversize? Did they look everything over before you decided on the work?

Hope it turns out well!-Jamie


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