Too cool, had to share

[DCaff300ZX]

I've had the luck if it's the word to know the Austin family from a short distance, having gone to school with Pat (my age) and Mike and used Dad Walt's shops always until he sold recently. Walt was a big time NHRA guy in his day and Pat was also, winning Alchohol championships a couple of times.
They ALWAYS had the coolest cars- Mike had a '69 white/orange Indy Camaro built to magazine standards+, while Pat's rat '57 tubbed missile was no slouch if not pretty and both were top cars in school...and impossible to top given where they came from.
Well, they are up to it again but this time World standards as they have restored one of Dad's cars...check this thing out and tell me it isn't maybe one of the coolest damn things you've ever seen!
Enjoy, and comment!
http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/10/fue ... -disguise/

[raremotive]

Yeah, stories like these are pretty cool and pretty fortunate that you knew them.

[DCaff300ZX]

Yeah, stories like these are pretty cool and pretty fortunate that you knew them.

Awesome to hear from you Rare, you keeping busy? Any movement with your Z?

Yeah, blew me away as I was checking out the article, and the address on the car and Austin name kicked in...we've got a LOT of automotive history around this part but to me, that car is special.
I've always loved the Early F1 and Can-Am-type angle in racing history when there were few/no rules, and guys could run whatever they came up with and yeah- there was some bizarro stuff but also some really cool stuff like this car.
I REALLY wish there was more of it, but you really only see that spirit in people's project cars these days and not on a Top level like this dragster.

[raremotive]

Yep, yep. Graduated and got a job at as a Product Development engineer for an manufacturer of structural products. I just about anything from manufacturing to custom design, so it keeps one busy.

I got married about two years ago. Kind of long overdue, she was waiting for me to finish school and etc.. so now dragging the chained steel ball on my ankle.

Been managing student loans, and the wife doesn't work and going to school. So paying tuition and student loans.. The real mystery is how I have any money at all. All these things put a real stand still to what I wish to do.

The 300zx is gone now. Mostly from the points above. I had to prioritize to determine the best path to get what I wish to do. I recently picked up a G35 coupe that was sold for 40% under nada value. So far just need front tires. This will allow me to track it sometime next year. I plan on upgrading it each year as I track it. So it will be progressive.

I still kept all my RB26 trinkets. I do plan someday to drop it into the G35. This was part of my re-prioritizing, the G is a better candidate due to having the drivetrain built for the 6 speed that I adapted to the RB26. Second is that I am driving the car as I build the engine up. I don't have the luxury to fire a buck-zooka and have all the parts ready in one go. I figured I will do them in stages. =)

Yeah when rules are open it's when real innovation / pioneering happens. I am a big fan of it. That's why it pushes me to build the a time attack car from scratch.

[DCaff300ZX]

Good stuff man!
I've also had to re-prioritize as you mentioned with my NA, it now will supply the rear 1/4 I need and all of the other upgrades I did to it will be removed before it gets scrapped. It's cost savings and useful parts for the TT are the best value it has left since I doubt I get into another car project again, getting too old for that isht. Once the TT is where I want it which it should be by the end of next year, that will be it- just enjoy it and fix anything if necessary.
When my brother was killed last year it really changed life and priorities, forced a realistic look at everything. I also had a little too much debt floating and spending too much elsewhere, but which over the past year+ has been reversed. Too often I find I want to do more than I realistically can, and have small projects all lined up for them all just to be disappointed by a lack of time and recently, energy. Thankfully taking a break on the Z and paying everything off has left me able to make a few REASONABLE plans, and a little energy and drive to do them. I do have one more large expense left with the Z body repairs, but from there it should be fun projects and done at any time rather than major operations.
So with that I can relate to your G35 plans, they sound awesome and fit your situation very well. Funny you mention the G35, the only newer car I also like and so not surprisingly I also am looking to trade in my gutless Honda for a G35 soon. I may just have to follow along with your G35 moves a little since copying you would relieve my own need to study up, and also would then know how to go about it which just might make me do it. Well, all except drop in a RB26TT...;>
Stay in touch dude!

[raremotive]

I am sorry for your lost. Hopefully you and your family can find peace your hearts again.

I would imagine everything changes for you. But heck time changes everything I guess.

Congrats on your new G btw, soon isn't enough to describe how quick you pull the trigger to get one. It's a good car, even the engine is pretty reliable. =) I will have to snap a few pictures of mine.

Sounds like you are getting all your pieces lined up.

[DCaff300ZX]

Yep, it took awhile to get back into the swing so to speak and my mother still isn't doing as well, but awhile back I decided enough was enough and time to take care of life first. The first move was stopping all work on the Z this year since my '99 Accord was tossing the trans as they all do, and I'd already put 27K miles on it in less than two years, so it was time to investigate a G again and I was happy to see prices recently finally fell to where I could get one.
I even found the exact color combo I wanted most and with AT (commute) and low miles, and decided to go on a road trip.
I was so impressed I agreed to buy it and took a PO with arrangements to finalize everything Friday, but I actually had to go buy it Monday as two potential buyers offering more than I was appeared later Sunday and they pressed me to get a deal done Monday morning since I hadn't left a deposit.
Man, am I glad I did! I liked the car a lot Sunday, loved it driving it back to work Monday, and am insatiably in freaking puppy-love with it now. You mentioned tracking yours which raised my eyebrows a tad, but now I see why...TT's on that engine and I think I'd be stupid what with the mash-and-go traction control, and the way it handles SO smooth and tight...and I LOVE tight heavier steering like it has. And believe it or not, the AT is pretty cool as it acts like a powerglide under heavy throttle and works REALLY well with the traction control. It's nimble as a Z32 and 95% as ergonomic inside, and at least as comfortable to me or maybe moreso what with ALL of the gadgets and features...what's not to like?

So, DEFINITELY keep me in the loop with anything you do to yours, I am actually (probably foolishly) thinking that I might like to make it go a little more, along with some wider stickier tires (already has some nice Kumhos) and I might actually start thinking sacrilegiously about the Z... Did I just say that???

[raremotive]

Time really cures all whether we go willingly or not. I am glad to hear you have recovered. I hope time will eventually catch up with your mother so she can find joy gain.

I am glad you are happy with your G. And I can actually explain why the G handles better than the Z. In truth my original plan was to build my own suspension over the Z's factory setup.. but that's all past now that have a set up damn near it. The first obvious benefit of the G is it's suspension components are made from aluminum rather than steel, this shaves off about 25% weight from unsprung mass. This just means the tire is able to return faster to the road when it hits a bump.

But the real gem is the lower control arms. There are two of them and they pivot as you turn your steering wheel. This design helps keep your camber movement minimized while the suspension is going through it's motion as you are turning a corner. But the biggest benefit of the dual pivot as you turn and these pivot it's actively changing your caster. With the wheel straight the pivot is arranged to give you the most caster for straight-line stability and when you turn it shifts the caster back for more precision and better feeling steering. It appears you already felt the gold in this.

There are other little details such as reduced offset because the links create an imaginary wheel axis pivot point ( which can be visualized by drawing a link through each link to a point where they intersect. This would be the bottom point of the kingpin axis.. and the upper point is the pivot point on the upper link. This reduction provides even more straight line driving stability and smooth feel.

The only disadvantages is that it adds more ball joints and bushings, but it's not like you are changing these out all the time...

Maybe next time you have a tire off you can look over this system. I would recommend someone to turn the wheel for you and you can actively watch the caster change. The whole spindle will move forward to the front of the car when straight and toward rear of the well when the it's turning. It's a neat thing.

It's actually better to have traction control than to be slipping a over the place. There was a test done with a professional race track driver.. he drove with the traction control on.. then off.. he got about the same time around the course.. the only difference is without it.. he's already trained to modulate throttle and determine the limits of the tire... traction control determines tire slippage and throttles down basically the driver admitted it made the process a whole lot easier, but it numbed the experience of modulating the throttle.. basically nanny'd you around the course..

Not a whole lot will be happening to my car in the upcoming years. Front tires and tracking it will be my goals for 2016.

From there will be steps. Initially I thought getting some powertrix coils.. at which I would be lowering the car some. Unfortunately this lower does effect the suspension geometry... figure how to do so (might be a bit more involved such as raising the whole rear subframe 1" .. etc etc.) I might just jump to changing the final drive from 3.357 to either 4.083 or a 4.36 ( I am more partial going to the later).. just need to decide on which LSD to replace the vlsd.

And further down the road will be weight reduction .. haven't decided if I want to do 15% or 20%. I figured I would do it in 5% increments. Seats are 70 lbs each! Bucket seat replacement 15 lbs.. savings.. 110 lbs right there... sun roof is also got to go.. (would like to put a CF panel in as a replacement.. might need a roll cage first..).

I know I want to decrease as much MoI ( moment of inertia) as possible, this here is the game changer. I will be focusing on reducing as much as I can. I already have lighter pistons (recipicating weight) and lighter rods (both). I will be looking on removing 1st and 6th in my transmission. Basically tracing all components that rotate during acceleration and determining if a lighter option can be substituted or simply can it be removed.

Lots of things to consider at this moment. I will have to read over some rules for some track associations to see what I can get away with.

[DCaff300ZX]

Oh, my oh my...GREAT stuff here man, especially about the suspension! I will be cleaning the car up some this weekend and painting the rusting hubs and maybe calipers before some pic whoring, so yeah, needless to say I will get someone to move the wheel for me so I can watch the LCA's move. DEFINITELY explains what I felt with the car's handling, you get max caster for straight but don't sacrifice turn in and stability when carving, no finding middle ground for suspension setup.
Guess that means I don't need to spend on suspension!
And, that I definitely need to do some research on this car...I can't believe that I never heard anything about the things you wrote about.
I also discovered today (no owners manual, only b**** I have!) that my trans will go full manual shift, and best of all no levers just using the shifter like a B+M bump shifter I used to have in my old '67 Mustang. I just freaking LOVE the trans now- now I can modulate the pedal, gear, and speed completely and accurately myself and most importantly know which gear I am in and also go for a lower one than the trans does if I want to, so today was another whole new day with the car.
I continue to be really impressed with the motor as well, it really has some pull that's almost turbo-like and the sound it makes hitting high revs especially with the exhaust I have gives me wood. I can't imagine how much more fun it would be with another 100 HP, 150-200 would be insane and surely require some race setup.
Any motor mod thoughts yet? Oh, and what's up with the continuous variable valve timing system? That must be something else too....I'm SUPER curious about that!
And as for the traction control, I've wanted that for 10 years now and simply can't WAIT to get it out somewhere open and alone to really, REALLY have some fun. It was raining hard the day I went to look at it and the first thing I did with it testdriving was to try to get loose with it and I couldn't, I was overjoyed (and my buddy relieved!) and as I said, can't wait to try again by myself.

So after reading everything you wrote I am truly getting caught feeling that I will get far more out of the G than putting more $ into the Z since it would take a lot to just semi-catch the Z up, not that I'd get rid of the TT or anything just I'd leave it alone after repairs and final detailing and enjoy it when I want brute force and lots of turbo surge
So please do keep me posted here or via PM about your moves with your G- I would feel extremely privileged to be able to know about and have a chance to do some or all of the things you would do since you have such a great insight into this all. And I promise to do some reading so I'm not so in the dark about this car I just made my life so happy with!

[raremotive]

For simple mods you probably can see about getting a 5/16" plenum spacer (assuming it doesn't have one already, mine came with one). Aftermarket free-flowing exhaust. With these you should see an access of 300 HP (assuming factory motor can put out about 280 HP). You can also explore some tuning options, this will give you the most HP/$. And believe it or not.. a 4.083 final drive swap out (might switch to a better LSD while you are at it) <- This one you will notice and enjoy a lot, very slight decrease in highway mileage.. around 1 MPG...

With above you should have a really solid car that frequently makes you grin without doing a whole lot.

Continuous Variable Valve Timing System

In short. It widens the power band by improving volumetric efficiency throughout the rpm range. It also effects fuel economy and emissions. It also has some protection from detonation if detected the car will go into limp mode and retard timing to protect the engine.

The deep dive explanation.

To best explain it is by starting with air. It's has mass. So when you try to move it.. it has lag... (called inertia .. essentially resistance in change in direction or velocity).

Today we are going to pretend we are an air molecule.. just floating about minding our own business... then all the sudden.. from behind us.. we get sucked into a car engine.. through the filter, pass the throttle body, around the plenum, directed into a runner, splashed with fuel, closer and and closer to the valve. But it closes on us. We shout to ourselves in our indefinitely tiny voice.."oh no what are we going to do!".... air has mass so it's going to keep going and hit the back of the valve.. and because there is other air molecules behind us.. we are now in a really massive multi-object collision pile up.

This stacking of air molecules create a massive pressure climb. Like all pressure systems, they always tries to equalize itself and the plenum has about 14 psi (depends on your altitude). So this newly formed pressure pulse / shockwave frantically travels back down the runner about the speed of sound. Like all shock waves in a closed end system creates a vacuum behind it...so as the high pressure is trying to reach the plenum a massive vacuum develops where it intuited. Once the pressure wave reaches the plenum it pops, while at same time creates another pressure wave traveling down the runner toward the valve... this can repeat over and over back and forward until the valve opens.

This is where is becomes important and related to your question. Depending on where the shock wave is.. for instance if it was traveling toward the plenum the valve would be opening to a vacuum, this would create a situation of wasted piston and scavenging energy (more later) thus filling the cylinder less than the overall volume of the cylinder..ie.. lower volumetric efficiency... On the other hand if the positive pressure wave is on the return toward the valve right when it was opening. You get a ram-air effect at which volumetric efficiency can exceed 100% of the volume of the cylinder.

Now it's a timing issue with trying to time these pressure waves to the event of valve opening. It's an easy thing to find timing of the valve, since it's related rpm, but for the pressure wave.. how should timing be determined...hmm.. it's a wave traveling at the speed of sound down the length of the runner... catch it yet? No? Length of the runner, the shockwave traveling down it two times before returning to the valve. Since we know the length and speed.. we have time it takes to return. This is another big topic about runner length tuning... in short... longer runner lengths create more low end torque and power while shorter ones create higher up torque...it has to do with air velocity... the longer the runner.. it reaches max velocity before becoming too restrictive in higher rpm... where shorter, the high rpm creates higher velocity.. this is important in generating momentum in the for the air (because it has mass remember?). Now you should be able to look at an engine and determine if it generates low rpm torque or high rpm torque .. final notes: Max velocity is far more important than most flow...

Typically engineers will try to tune this shockwave to an desired rpm, while having the bad end of the shockwave else where. ( Quick fact: runner trumpets that they put at the end of the runners don't just improve flow slightly, but actually preserve the energy of the shockwaves!)

You can see the shock-waves visually in the second animation for closed cylinder: http://newt.phys.unsw.edu.au/jw/flutes.v.clarinets.html

So for a pun: You can almost say engines are acoustically tuned.

Whew.. *sips some water*

Now we start talking variable valve timing.

For a engine like the RB26.. does not come with variable timing. It's stuck to one timing until the cam gear is physically adjusted by hand. Variable timing allows the valves to open when the shock waves arrive at different rpms. It essentially recovers the lost hp from the lost of volume of air.

Both the G35 and 300zx has variable timing on the intake cam gear.

However the difference is that the 300zx is stages of different timing, low and high will have different timings. Where continuous has infinite range of timing throughout the rpm range. So the G35 will have more HP throughout the range than the Z.

This graph can show you exactly that. Notice there is no improvement in the peak, this is the natural "tuned" sweet spot for power.


Hopefully at this point.. you are not picking up the remnants of a blown brain....

Finally since it's on the same topic.. the exhaust system is the same way with pulses. So your manifolds are tuned to have the vacuum timed at the moment when the valve is closing and the opening of the intake. This helps suck in the air while also clearing out the cylinder of residual gases.. hence scavenging as mentioned above.

Again this is fixed to a rpm if you don't have variable timing. Which none of our engines do. However if you got the VQ35HR.. it comes with exhaust variable timing. =D

-End

No worries. I am around. I regularly check my email that's tied to my still alive blog.

I can see about posting my G endeavors, but it won't be very timely or eventful. Next on the list are tires, likely Spring 2016. =)

[DCaff300ZX]

Got it, great stuff...I never knew the full extent of variable valve timing, kind of stopped at the obvious benefits of the technology but never put together the runner pulses and matching them as the true goal and benefit of variable timing. I faced the same issue back at 18 building my BB Ford FE, they were a stroker motor/low RPM's and I wanted to get more RPM's into the mix and more top end versus the massive bottom end.
My reading led me to the magical 19 inch runner length that was the previous only way to maximize that fuel pulse, or go with the shorter runner style and more top end but with a large loss of the bottom end. I ended up finding a nice single plane with the longer runners (FE's made this easy with their configuration- it was hard to make them shorter!) and used an at-the-time new Holley annular discharge booster venturi carb which worked well, but I had low vaccum issues I never worked out as I moved out of M+D's house and life wasn't as easy anymore, i.e. no money for tinkering and I foolishly sold the car.
Anyway, thanks a TON for filling in the VVT/continous VVT blanks and for your very complete info, I really appreciate how you and my Z guy Doug have the whole thing down SO well, and completely. VERY fun for me to be able to get such quality info!
No worries with the speed you do anything with your G, I also am getting to that range of speed with things and I have HAD to slow down as the Z has really been a serious labor of love thankfully nearing completion, and I just don't have another run like that left in me
I'm ready for just fun stuff, and anything more major will be more for guys like Doug to do the heavy lifting...