to those with stainless steel lines!

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sjbsuperman1425
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I recently aquired stainless steel lines for my oil cooler. I put the fittings on and tightened them up to the max that i could. My question is, does the blue part of the fitting and the red part of the fitting have to be touching, or does it have to be just tight enough so you can't see any threads?


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wrightme43
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If things are made right, and you didnt damage them by over tightening them, snug plus a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn is usually more than enough.

If you have jammed them down as tight as you can get them you may of deformed the sealing nose area in the aircraft fitting, then you will have sadness and gnashing of teeth for thanksgiving instead.


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sjbsuperman1425
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snug and 1/4 to 1/2 a turn would've left the threads exposed. They started in easy and hand tightened them halfway of the threads, but after that it took some force. there are no threads showing as of right now.

I'll probably take them apart tomorrow morning just to be sure, but im 99.99% positive i didn't ruin anything.

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OutToWinPAHC
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No they dont have to touch..... I thought that too, larger lines are harder to snug flush.

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wrightme43
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http://www.bakerprecision.com/aqp5.htm

If you scroll down on the page these are the ones your talking about right?

I have never had any problem with them. They are awesome. Maybe I am over reacting. I work in a shop and see things jammed together by gorillas on crack. Hopefully they are just right.

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sjbsuperman1425
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220687/

thats what i got. i feel as though i did it right, as the threads are in. and they threaded easily at first. but at the end it was a pain. Should I have used Teflon tape on these?

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wrightme43
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On the pipe thread parts its a good idea, on the taper seal part alum to alum its not needed

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sjbsuperman1425
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pipe thread = female parttaper thread = male part

^^Correct? Im not finished with the lines yet so any help of what to do is greatly appreciated. I know how to get them together and cut them, just not sure where/if to use teflon tape and things like that. Thanks.

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sjbsuperman1425
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oh and btw, is it bad to use different manufacturers for the fittings, lines and such? I'm using the following:

Russell Braided steel lineSummit 90* Hose EndsFragola Straight Hose EndsRussell 10AN to 1/2" NPT adapter

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wrightme43
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the NPT (national pipe thread) portion should use a thread sealer. Teflon tape is great. The rest should be tapered seat connected to tapered nose. Hope that makes sense.


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sjbsuperman1425
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the NPT portoin would be the threaded part that goes into the hose. Sorry im pretty new too the whole "thread" type deal.

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sjbsuperman1425
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i disassembled the lines yesterday to check out th threads to make sure they are not damaged, and they look ok. What would damaged fittings look like? Thanks.

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-10 and -12 almost never sit flush red from the base to the lock. Just get the snug.

For the thread, I used Locktite thead seal. Its like a glue stick, just fill in the thread on the male end and done.

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sjbsuperman1425
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so, when cutting the lines, there tends to be some "debree" that gets into the lines itself. any ideas of how to clean them out besides compressed air (already tried), or am i just wasting time since it'd get picked up by the filter?

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PhopsonNY
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As always some pics would help

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sjbsuperman1425
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its hard to get a good pic of the inside of the line. basically im just trying to see what ideas ppl have to clean the debree out of the line after cutting them, or if im wasting my time..

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OutToWinPAHC
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q-tips brotha

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sjbsuperman1425 wrote:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220687/

thats what i got. i feel as though i did it right, as the threads are in. and they threaded easily at first. but at the end it was a pain. Should I have used Teflon tape on these?
Every summit fitting I have goes all the way down, no threads showing, one broke but called summit and sent me a new one for free.


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