To those with aftermarket stereo systems

[ILuvNkdChx]

For the past hour I have been unsuccessfully trying to run the power wire from the battery to the subs. I can't find any hole to run the wire through the firewall. It's a 4awg wire I'm trying to run and I wasn't sure if anybody had found a hole to which I may be able to squeeze this wire. If no holes are there please shout back with any things you did...like where to safely drill a hole?

[Jesda]

Wes has a nice write-up:http://www.q45.org/subwiring.html

[TBrack]

I drilled mine right where the passenger footwell is near the firewall... from there I ran it straight back. If you need pix lmk.

[DrewQ45]

No need to drill. Punch through rubber grommet on passenger side of firewall with a straightened wire hangar... form a tiny loop/hook on the end on which you'll hook the power wire and pull through into passenger compartment. Tape to prevent snagging and wipe a little motor oil on the wire to ease travel... otherwise it's possible to dislodge the grommet from it's seal.

*edit* Just took a look under the hood for ya... the grommet's exact location is high up in extreme left under the wiper motor. It's the one that the main thick wiring harness runs through so be carefull not to pierce the harness when feeding the hanger thru.
Modified by DrewQ45 at 11:17 AM 4/24/2007

[ILuvNkdChx]

Thanks guys...I would have blown this car up by now if not for this site! I ran the amp power wire through the engine bay via Wes' diagram because I had a 4awg wire and it wouldn't fit through the grommet, however, I ran the power wires for the head unit and brain through the grommet. Damn flip out screen needs it's own direct connect to the battery! Same with the nav. system and I still haven't done that yet. I'm taking a lunch break.

It's the alpine cva-1000, alpine nva-751 navigation, 2, 12 inch alpine type R's, 2 alpine V12 amps, plus I bought an inverter to plug in the laptop for the USB consult, and I have the veilside body kit. I'm trying to get it all on this week because I have the week off from work, and I wanna take her out all weekend! OK I'll shut up...back to work.

[qsiguy]

Just because a component calls for a "battery" connection doesn't mean you need to go all the way to the battery. I've done hundreds of installs (literally) and most of the installs where the power was ran to the battery was unnecessary and normally ends up getting corroded and loosing power.

The device just needs constant power and there is sufficient constant power right at the ignition switch on most vehicles that will handle a moderate amperage load. The only time you must go to the battery is when you have a high amperage load like an amplifier.

If you are convinced you have to connect directly to the battery make sure you do a few things.

*Install a fuse within about 12 inches of the battery. This fuse is to protect the wire and your car, not the device in case of a short between the battery and the component.

*Apply some type of corrosion resistant coating

*Insulate where you pass through any metal with a good grommet

*Keep the wires tied up away from moving or hot parts and it's best to cover them with split loom or at least electrical tape where it's outside of the interior of the car.

*Last, NEVER run the ground all the way to the battery, Ground the components as close as possible to the mounting location preferably to chassis ground. There are rare situations where you'd run the ground to the battery like in some 2-way radio installations but not in stereo or alarm components.

Long story short, it's normally a waste of time to run smaller components power all the way to the battery.

[DrewQ45]

Just because a component calls for a "battery" connection doesn't mean you need to go all the way to the battery

Good catch, I didn't pick up on what he was saying... probably because it sounded so unnatural. The only thing I would run a power wire straight to battery for is a power amp. Another thing is that if he wires straight to battery, the unit will not turn off when the ignition is off unless he powers it off. A good recipe for a drained battery.

[carfrk666]

i never drilled, i just went to the boot behind the strut mount and cut a small hole in the boot, slid it threw, riped up carpet, and found a nice little channel to put the wire in all the way back, out of sight

[ILuvNkdChx]

Thanks for the comments...I tried the head unit with the constant for the old radio and the wire was just not large enough for the power needed. I connected the head unit and brain directly to the battery and just hooked up a remote/relay wire to let the radio know when to turn on/off.

[qsiguy]

Ya, they do require more than the OEM head unit but you can tap in at the ignition switch normally. Usually it's a 10-12 gauge wire that will handle decent amperage. They are usually fused at about 30-40 amps. The OEM radio switched lead should be fine for the on/off signal.

Got any photos of your install/equipment?

[carfrk666]

go to walmart, they got everything u need in a nice little kit

[ILuvNkdChx]

I have been taking pics, however, I was waiting to be finished to post the whole project. It started raining today, and is supposed to rain till mid Friday, so I'm not sure if I will finish before the weekend.