to re-Dyno or not to re-Dyno!?! advise pls

[D-UNIT]

Alright so I dynoed my car last month. With the base map I hit 151 hp and 154 ft-lbs @ 4000rpms. Problem is after 4000 rpms the dyno gragh tanks to 127 hp and does not recover till 5800 rpm were it goes back up to 141 hp. I found out my afr was below 8.0. I tried to tune it up but I did not know what I was doing at that time and made it super rich. Idled like a huge camed race car. Anyway now I know how to use the tuning software. My goal was 160-165hp NA. I still need fine tuning but at wot I got it up to 12.8-13.3 afr's. It feels way crazier now. Ate a lightly modded Titan and a 4dr civic ls-v 1-2-3rd gear.

My setup (all the things "YOUR NOT SUPPOSE TO DO")

Bone stock KA ( gonna blow!)JWT stage 3 ecu (why?)740cc injectors (RICH!!)3in cat back ( no torque)97mm MAF emulating a 93 ford cobra (Way to big)Yeah right!!= 151hp and 154ft-lbs at 4000rpms

uture NA / turbo mods

swirl valve deleteegr deletethermal manifold spacer

2nd problem - I have a turbo waiting to go in. It should net me about 280-300hp.

So my Question is should I spent another $75 for 9-14hp? I really what to disprove the myths but I think I already did. Your opinions are appreciated.

[liquid_cool]

dyno runs are as worthless to a real tuner as penutbutter is to a sushi chef..there not as acurate as everyone believes...there is allot involved ..setting a base run..was the pulls hot or cold..ect ect...and did ya do the runs at a place where ya bought your parts?..sometimes you have guys who will fudge numbers for you base line a bit or exagerate the ambient temp...save your cash man..buy some new speekers or sumpin..unless your running a 8 seond car..you should never need a dyno.

just my humble opinion.

[D-UNIT]

Thanks 4 the response man. I totally get what u mean , I didn't dyno for huge numbers. I spun the rollers for everyone how says this or that is a stupid mod on a NA KA. My set-up is actually for tubo but since it felt really good on the street , I was curious. And I wasn't dissapointed for a bone stock internally KA.

I actually flubbed the base tune trying to get more power but I was making it richer. My friend wanted to dyno his mazda truck w/ a fully built 22R inside (139 hp and 150ft-lbs) I told him I wasn't ready ( car wasn't running good like before- due to me). He thought he could take me so he kept egging me on. So I said WTH. Maybe I can figure out whats wrong on the dyno. Sure enough I found I was getting a 24hp drop at 4000rpm. My graph looked like Niagra Falls haha. Tried tuning but FAIL! Just got worse and worse , but I smoked him woot. Not bad for 170,000 miles.

I dynoed at a very good V8 shop on a dynojet. If anything they made my HP lower cuz they keep ragging me to swap in a LS1.

But I know I can get 10 - 15+ more hp. I want to do it for the team , but if no one cares I'll just slap on my turbo. I mean 165whp is only 5 less than an stock SR20det's whp. I think thats pretty crazy for bolt ons!!

[Gabes13]

So my Question is should I spent another $75 for 9-14hp?

what are you getting for $75?

A set of high profile cams can net you an extra 13hp on the top end...but they don't cost $75.

[D-UNIT]

what are you getting for $75?

.Another dyno run.

My AFR's were below 8.0 even off the scale at times during my run. If I can tune my MAF to 13 -13.5 afr maybe I'll be able erase the huge hole in the fuel map and gain 15+hp.

[Chris28]

What are you using to tune your maf?

Get a wideband and an SAFC, or just an SAFC and go back to the dyno. You know what your AFR's are, but is that because of the dyno shop or your own wideband?

Something is obviously wrong with your tune between that rpm range. Get that figured out before you put the turbo on, or else you are just exacerbating the problem.

[D-UNIT]

dyno runs are worthless ..unless your running a 8 seond car..you should never need a dyno.

just my humble opinion.

Actually Dyno runs are very useful. Case in point - That Mazda w/ the 22R inside rolled in there w/ 127hp and 136 ft-lb. And he thought his truck was killer before after changing some jets he rolled out w/ 139hp and 150ft-lbs. Very happy customer. money well spent.

BTW chassis dyno tuning 8 sec cars is pretty useless. Because the lag so great that once boost hits the run is over. So imagine 200hp at 4000rpm then boom 800hp at 7500rpm. Thats pretty much a straight line from 200hp to peak power. Anyway most "8sec" cars tune on engine dynos and the strip itself. Engine dynos find peak power which is all that counts in a drag race. then they gear up accordingly , to keep it in the "powerband". From there they can tell how to car is running by its 60ft time and 1/8 and 1/4 trapspeeds and datalogging. No WHP dyno needed well maybe for shakedown runs but thats it. = $1000 for tuning "8sec cars" LOL

But for us poor people paying $75 and changing some jets and gaining 12hp or find out your losing over 35hp that you can't feel on the street is not useless. Not trying to get in a pissing match. Just wondering if I should try for more NA HP. I do have the set up to do so.

[D-UNIT]

Aww man I'm such an idiot. I really goofed this one. My car started misfiring when I step on it. My friend said Ignition Coil , but Its less than 1 year old. I thought it was my MSD 6al box so I unplugged it. Same problem. So I decided to switch the +/- leads going to my blaster SS coil and what do you know car turns back into the Monster KA I remember. It explains everything crappy gas mileage , no power , misfiring. I must have been running it backwards for 10 months. I swear the green wire was negative pulse. Idiot!!! If it was hittin 151whp before it feels like 165whp now!! I'm going to source a header and go for 170whp.
Modified by D-UNIT at 11:36 PM 3/30/2009

[D-UNIT]

^^yeah

[DroptopDrifting]

dont mean to threadjack, but was it a pain to take out the dizzy and take it apart to wire up the msd ignition module. i got one with a blaster2 coil pack as well....

[D-UNIT]

Nah I just took off the leads from the ignitor to coil and ran it straight to the msd box. I would suggest getting a Blaster SS coil bc if ur Msd box fails , you can hook up the SS coil straight to the ignitor. The Blaster 2 coil will fry the ignitor.