To clear up some 5 speed swap issues...

[IveBeenBad]

I've seen a lot of questions concerning the 5 spd conversion, and I would just like to clear up some things:

1: The Automatic ECU does not have to be swapped out for a manual ECU. The A/T has its own control computer.

2: The MT flywheel bolts are longer, you need to use them. At $2 a piece from the deaership, they are worth the cost.

3: Clutch hydraulics are cheap, get new ones. Junkyard parts are likely to have bad seals which lead to low pressure.

4: There is no need to hunt down a factory hardline, you can either buy a stainless line, or you can rent a flaring tool and make your own.

5: Throwout Bearings and pilot bushings are cheap, replace them while the transmission is off unless you enjoy dropping the transmission (most clutch kits include a new TO bearing and pilot bushing)

6: When drilling the holes for the clutch master cylinder, make sure you drill the right ones. As silly as this may sound, Bart and I managed to drill the wrong holes because we didnt bother to double check.

7: If you plan on doing a B&M shifter, do it while the transmission is out of the car, this will save you the hassle of trying to get to the front bolts on the shifter plate.

8: Replace the transmission mount. These things are soft rubber and they tend to get messed up while removing the transmission (the transmission tends to lean to one side and destroy the mount. The NISMO mount is cheap enough and it's a 2 bolt install.

I just thought I would post this advice because some people still are not clear on this swap even with the millions of resources out there.

[s13sr20chris]

cheap trans mount fix. jam a brake pad in it. i did it on mine.

[whoflungpoo]

or on the mount, just fill it with polyurethane while it's out.

I'll post up my tips from when i did my swap (which i may be about to do again, along with manual-> auto swap)

anyways, here they are:

My friend and i did a KA to KA swap (other motor blew a head gasket) and an auto -manual swap at the same time.

It's taken about 8-10 hrs of work so far for everthing that i'm doing. I'd say if you can set aside a weekend, you could knock it out... especially if you have a friend to help you.

but here are a few things to help you along though:

Bolts you need: Flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, transmission bellhousing mounting bolts. You will also need a pilot bushing for the manual transmission.

- you can get by with just purchasing the long clutch line that run's across the engine bay and the rubber line that connects to the slave cylinder. you have to bend the long line a bit, but it takes out that stupid dampning line.

- MAKE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT DRIVESHAFT. I got mine from a friend, supposedly out of an S14, and the carrier bearing was on the front half, where it was supposed to be on the rear.

-the wiring is pretty straight foward.;jumper the top connector behind the relay box in the engine compartment(behind the battery) that's the "park" relay that lets you turn your car on. beware, you don't have to have your clutch in to turn the car on after that, so make sure it's either in neutral or just make it a habit to push the clutch.:run a line from the reverse position sensor for your backup lights to the third connector down behind the fuse box.:drill a hole in front of the shifter assembly and run 3 wires. 1 from the neutral position sensor, 1 from the 5th gear sensor, and a ground from them both. These run to your ECU. The entire wiring documentation that i used can be found here:http://www.ka24development.com....html ONLY attach the 5th speed sensor if you have a 5speed ECU.

-Watch out for the sensor on the top of the transmission bellhousing. if you leave it on while removing/replacing the transmission, chances are it's broken

- don't screw with replacing the break pedal, just cut the auto one and put some pedal covers over them.

- The holes for the master cylinder are Very clearly marked, and relatively easy to drill through.

-you must use the top bolt to mount the clutch pedal assembly. Mine didn't mount flush against the inner firewall, as there are supposed to be some spacers on the back of it. I found this out when i couldn't get my clutch pedal to go all the way down. I also ended up using some ghetto spacers to properly space it.

- you MUST use a manual transmission crossmember, else you will tear up your transmission mount and get nasty vibrations.

-Do yourself a favor and get an upgraded clutch from the get-go. I've got an OE in mine and it slips like hell.

[Hijacker]

in my defense about the drilling:

I was drilling from the outside at first, and I saw two embossed areas on the firewall. Thinking they were the proper holes, I drilled one small pilot hole, only to find out that the two embossments outside were in the opposite corners of the real holes.

when doing the big hole for the clutch pin, grab a piece of paper and wriglle up under the dash. Take the paper and mark two points on it denoting the edges of the circle at it's maximum distance across. Then use the paper to find the midpoint, mark the firewall, and with an angle drill, drill a small pilot hole there. Then you can go back outside and comfortably use a hole saw to finish the job. Yum.

[whoflungpoo]

ah, i shoulda done that... we just went at it from under the dash with a hole saw ... unfun times....

[s13sr20chris]

heh, i drilled a hole roughly in between the two mc bolt holes. then i wallered it out with a carbide bit. dang im ghetto. ladies and gentlemen its people like me that do your warranty work on your new nissan!

[SHIFTrl240]

pfft.. i just had a few old drill bits and an electric drill so i just made a bunch of small holes in a circle to make a cut out.

[Hijacker]

i get access to a professional mechanic's tools for jobs like this. specialty tools rock

[bottombunk]

i was wondering how important is it to replace the pilot bushing. mine was just too much of a bi#$% to get off. so i left the old one in.

[Hijacker]

most pilot bushings should be fine. i would only replace it if i were doing a full rebuild on the engine or if it went bad

[bottombunk]

thanks. i pretty much replaced everything except that. i replaced all the gaskets except the rear main seal. put in new pumps and belts and stuff.

[IveBeenBad]

thanks. i pretty much replaced everything except that. i replaced all the gaskets except the rear main seal. put in new pumps and belts and stuff.

they are a real paint to remove, gotta have a slide hammer with the appropriate attachment