I say scrap the Bose and go aftermarket.nuQ wrote: allright, my dilema. i currently have the stock bose system in my Q cass. only/no cd. really want to get a cd in there and not really concerened about a changer (yet). i also have one of my 6x9 speaker amps blown.
NO! Don't mount any tweeters in the doors, unless you are using coaxials which have the tweeter mounted in the center of the driver. High frequencies are extremely directional. I have a friend who made the mistake of mounting his tweeters at ~ elbow level in the door near the dash. It sounded ok, but once you sat down and closed the door, the tweeters seemed to experience a ~3Db drop in output. Maybe it was just this particular vehicle that has this problem, but I don't think that's the case. I suggest mounting seperate tweeters in the A-pillars, similar to those in the 94+ Q45nuQ wrote: looking for recommendations of good yet inexpensive HU---the double DIN size is the best fit, i believe the doors hold 4 or 4 1/2's, but a friend thinks he can mount tweeters high in the doors (scary!!), and decent 6x9's.
Agreed. Have you sent your amps to Bose under the recall that was issued for early G50 Bose amps? IIRC, they'll replace them either free, or very cheaply. That would be a good thing to do also. Then with the new amps, you could use the Bose amps and aftermarket speakers.Rex wrote:In this case, he'd be better off going with less expensive SVC co-axials and getting a "cheapo" amp if the Bose amps are shot. Maybe even look for an HU with built in power and bypass the amps all together??
Right on.. Ive always said that if you have a good bose, keep it, if not, upgrade...nuQ wrote:maybe i'm wrong, but thinking it's better to just get rid of the whole bose system. hate to keep going with the "blown speaker" thing in years to come. is this wrong????
Youll need a harness and an antenna adapter.. I can provide detailed instructions when your ready.......Jesda wrote:The amps seem to last about ten years, probably longer after a rebuild.
However, the aftermarket gives you so many options. You could get a single DIN head unit and a single DIN changer underneath, or a double-din changer, or... well... you can do anything.
The Bose system is great compared to most OEM sound systems, especially from that era, but there's so much affordable, quality equipment available now.
I say, do some ebaying, grab some Pioneer speakers and a nice CD head unit -- you can get a single-disc Nakamichi CD35z single disc for cheap now, and the sound quality will blow you away, even with budget priced speakers.
I dont know what adapters you would need. Wes would know.
I've always said that if you have a good bose system, it's time to get your hearing checkedelwesso wrote: Ive always said that if you have a good bose, keep it, if not, upgrade...
I say that's someone who needs to hear a good Bose system. I know you understand that means it doesn't have to be bass loaded. I just think you've never heard a not worn out Bose system.PoorManQ45 wrote:I've always said that if you have a good bose system, it's time to get your hearing checked
yeah, I guess, but even if you order parts directly from Bose it will cost you an arm and a leg . Example: I called bose to get a price on one of the rear amps in my Q, they gave me a price quote ~$400 for one amp . That's a little too much for what you're getting. Heck, for that much I could get a Nakamichi pa-2004 amp .Rex wrote:Yes, Bose is more expensive that it should be, but let's not look at dealer add on prices for stereo's, It's not uncommon for a simple upgrade to be ~$700 or more. There was even lawsuits against the big 3 in the late 80's over price "fairness" and that they were designing the dash/systems to not be receptive of aftermarket pieces.
I made a thread on http://www.the12volt.com about this awhile ago. It was all about Nakamichi stuff. The general concensus was/is that they make the best HU, but their amps are good, but not that good. Consencus was the Mcintosh is the best amp maker in town. They're a little bit pricy, but if you want SQ, then that's the way to go.Rex wrote:I've rally been toying with the idea of putting together an Alpine HU/Nak amp (nice 506 on ebay right now) set up, but at this point, it's not worth changing out in the Q since it works and is such a hassel to change.
I'd vote aftermarket unless they used 16 gauge, which I don't think they did. It's not a "must do", but would be the right thing to do.nuQ wrote:question guys. if trashing the bose system the bose system, should you use new speaker wire for all four aftermarket speakers???
If you aren't gonna venture out and try to swap in 94-96 A-pillars, then a good coaxial is the way to go. I'd suggest making an adapter to allow a 5 1/4 or 6 in the front doors. Pioneer makes some very good and affordable coax's.nuQ wrote:mb quart makes a component 4" with tweets that can be mounted coaxially, without putting them in the a pillar is that the way to go????
Bose didn't even run speaker wire from the HU to the amps. The only actually speaker wire is ~4in and it connects the amp to the speaker.Rex wrote:I'd vote aftermarket unless they used 16 gauge, which I don't think they did. It's not a "must do", but would be the right thing to do.
If you use those Components, you are going to need an amplifier to power them. You might be able to power them with the stock Bose amps though.nuQ wrote:mb quart makes a component 4" with tweets that can be mounted coaxially, without putting them in the a pillar is that the way to go????
"The wire" speaker/signal WHATEVER, if it's not at least 16, I'd suggest replacing it, sheez.PoorManQ45 wrote:Bose didn't even run speaker wire from the HU to the amps. The only actually speaker wire is ~4in and it connects the amp to the speaker ...
PoorManQ45 wrote: ... As for making an adaptor. I suggest using the Bose pod and just expanding the opening. Other wise you will have to make a custom enclosure, or else the whole door would act as an enclosure, which would make it sound like crap.
Sorry, I be anal tonight , and ever other night tooRex wrote: "The wire" speaker/signal WHATEVER, if it's not at least 16, I'd suggest replacing it, sheez.
Hmm.. I've heard of these foam things before, but where can you get them?Rex wrote: Yes, using the whole door would be bad, I would suggest using a foam "hat" that can act as a speaker baffle.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0...avf=NPoorManQ45 wrote:... Hmm.. I've heard of these foam things before, but where can you get them?