to BOSE or not to BOSE in a 90Q

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nuQ
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allright, my dilema. i currently have the stock bose system in my Q cass. only/no cd. really want to get a cd in there and not really concerened about a changer (yet). i also have one of my 6x9 speaker amps blown. i have the oppurtunity to buy an entire bose setup (with cd and all speakers) through a member here from a 93. i just don't know if buying equipment 10 years old is the right thing to do, i could be in the same spot (blown speakers again) very soon! my question is to go aftermarket but not spend a ton on gear since i really don't drive it that much? i defintily want an indash cd, good front stage speakers (ideally separates!!!), and 6x9 that will handle the low end and rear fill (don't want a sub now). looking for recommendations of good yet inexpensive HU---the double DIN size is the best fit, i believe the doors hold 4 or 4 1/2's, but a friend thinks he can mount tweeters high in the doors (scary!!), and decent 6x9's. like i said, i'm trying to keep this is inexpensive as possible. maybe some brand names and model #'s i can look at. thanks


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Rex
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So, you're goal is an In-Dash CD player and better speakers?

As long as your amps haven't died, just get some inexpensive 6x9's and 4's (or whatever will fit in the door) and look for a Bose in dash CD and get the adapter to allow it to plug right in to the existing system. It might be worth seeing if the 94-96 a-pillars with the tweeters would fit.

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elwesso
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Well the lowest cost solution would be to get a double DIN, and hten use aftermarket speakers... Jeff, did you see my install of the JVC HU?

I woulda kept that HU if I was going to upgrade everything, but i decided i wanted brakes.....

Another alternative I would **strongly** consider is a single DIN HU (you can get a LOT of HU for not much money) and then fill the other din with an EQ or something.....

Thats what Id do if i had to do it agian..

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PoorManQ45
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nuQ wrote: allright, my dilema. i currently have the stock bose system in my Q cass. only/no cd. really want to get a cd in there and not really concerened about a changer (yet). i also have one of my 6x9 speaker amps blown.
I say scrap the Bose and go aftermarket.

I would recommend just changing to aftermarket speakers and see if that alone is good enough for you.
nuQ wrote: looking for recommendations of good yet inexpensive HU---the double DIN size is the best fit, i believe the doors hold 4 or 4 1/2's, but a friend thinks he can mount tweeters high in the doors (scary!!), and decent 6x9's.
NO! Don't mount any tweeters in the doors, unless you are using coaxials which have the tweeter mounted in the center of the driver. High frequencies are extremely directional. I have a friend who made the mistake of mounting his tweeters at ~ elbow level in the door near the dash. It sounded ok, but once you sat down and closed the door, the tweeters seemed to experience a ~3Db drop in output. Maybe it was just this particular vehicle that has this problem, but I don't think that's the case. I suggest mounting seperate tweeters in the A-pillars, similar to those in the 94+ Q45

Rex: Sinse most aftermarket Coaxials are 4 Ohm, would it make more sense to try to find a Dual Voice Coil Coaxial and then wire it in parallel because the Bose amp can handle ~1 Ohm Load? I mean, that'd give you nearly twice the power.

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Rex
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If he wanted to get alot out of the Bose amps and they were in good condition (refurbs), then maybe, but at this point, I think he just wants decent sound, which is going to require refurbing the 15+ yr old speakers or replacing them.

In this case, he'd be better off going with less expensive SVC co-axials and getting a "cheapo" amp if the Bose amps are shot. Maybe even look for an HU with built in power and bypass the amps all together??

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PoorManQ45
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Rex wrote:In this case, he'd be better off going with less expensive SVC co-axials and getting a "cheapo" amp if the Bose amps are shot. Maybe even look for an HU with built in power and bypass the amps all together??
Agreed. Have you sent your amps to Bose under the recall that was issued for early G50 Bose amps? IIRC, they'll replace them either free, or very cheaply. That would be a good thing to do also. Then with the new amps, you could use the Bose amps and aftermarket speakers.

That way you would keep that OEM HU which would somewhat help to detour wouldbe stereo theifs

nuQ
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maybe i'm wrong, but thinking it's better to just get rid of the whole bose system. hate to keep going with the "blown speaker" thing in years to come. is this wrong????

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Jesda
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The amps seem to last about ten years, probably longer after a rebuild.

However, the aftermarket gives you so many options. You could get a single DIN head unit and a single DIN changer underneath, or a double-din changer, or... well... you can do anything.

The Bose system is great compared to most OEM sound systems, especially from that era, but there's so much affordable, quality equipment available now.

I say, do some ebaying, grab some Pioneer speakers and a nice CD head unit -- you can get a single-disc Nakamichi CD35z single disc for cheap now, and the sound quality will blow you away, even with budget priced speakers.

I dont know what adapters you would need. Wes would know.

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elwesso
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nuQ wrote:maybe i'm wrong, but thinking it's better to just get rid of the whole bose system. hate to keep going with the "blown speaker" thing in years to come. is this wrong????
Right on.. Ive always said that if you have a good bose, keep it, if not, upgrade...
Jesda wrote:The amps seem to last about ten years, probably longer after a rebuild.

However, the aftermarket gives you so many options. You could get a single DIN head unit and a single DIN changer underneath, or a double-din changer, or... well... you can do anything.

The Bose system is great compared to most OEM sound systems, especially from that era, but there's so much affordable, quality equipment available now.

I say, do some ebaying, grab some Pioneer speakers and a nice CD head unit -- you can get a single-disc Nakamichi CD35z single disc for cheap now, and the sound quality will blow you away, even with budget priced speakers.

I dont know what adapters you would need. Wes would know.
Youll need a harness and an antenna adapter.. I can provide detailed instructions when your ready.......

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DOOM240sx
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im sum it up for ya..... Bose blows! upgrade it.

DOOM out.

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PoorManQ45
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elwesso wrote: Ive always said that if you have a good bose, keep it, if not, upgrade...
I've always said that if you have a good bose system, it's time to get your hearing checked

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Rex
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PoorManQ45 wrote:I've always said that if you have a good bose system, it's time to get your hearing checked
I say that's someone who needs to hear a good Bose system. I know you understand that means it doesn't have to be bass loaded. I just think you've never heard a not worn out Bose system.

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PoorManQ45
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Yeah, I'm a little bias. No, I'm not one of those idiots that likes a$$ loads of bass.

The newest bose system that I've heard was in a '04 Trailblazer. It sounded pretty good, at at what cost? IIRC, the Bose system came in a $2500 package . I always look at price to performance ratio. Of course bose makes some good stuff, but is it worth the price? I say no.

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Rex
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Yes, Bose is more expensive that it should be, but let's not look at dealer add on prices for stereo's, It's not uncommon for a simple upgrade to be ~$700 or more. There was even lawsuits against the big 3 in the late 80's over price "fairness" and that they were designing the dash/systems to not be receptive of aftermarket pieces.

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PoorManQ45
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Rex wrote:Yes, Bose is more expensive that it should be, but let's not look at dealer add on prices for stereo's, It's not uncommon for a simple upgrade to be ~$700 or more. There was even lawsuits against the big 3 in the late 80's over price "fairness" and that they were designing the dash/systems to not be receptive of aftermarket pieces.
yeah, I guess, but even if you order parts directly from Bose it will cost you an arm and a leg . Example: I called bose to get a price on one of the rear amps in my Q, they gave me a price quote ~$400 for one amp . That's a little too much for what you're getting. Heck, for that much I could get a Nakamichi pa-2004 amp .

I am curious as to how Bose is able to have their amps putting out a ~1/2 ohm nominal load and still retaining low harmonic distortion. That is an amazing feat of engineering

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Rex
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Yes, Bose pricesa re higher than they should be, and when it comes to a car specific piece the pricing gets ridiculous.

I've rally been toying with the idea of putting together an Alpine HU/Nak amp (nice 506 on ebay right now) set up, but at this point, it's not worth changing out in the Q since it works and is such a hassel to change.

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PoorManQ45
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Rex wrote:I've rally been toying with the idea of putting together an Alpine HU/Nak amp (nice 506 on ebay right now) set up, but at this point, it's not worth changing out in the Q since it works and is such a hassel to change.
I made a thread on http://www.the12volt.com about this awhile ago. It was all about Nakamichi stuff. The general concensus was/is that they make the best HU, but their amps are good, but not that good. Consencus was the Mcintosh is the best amp maker in town. They're a little bit pricy, but if you want SQ, then that's the way to go.

Oh man, I'd love to be able to say, "Yeah, i've got a Nakamichi 700II sending a crystal clear signal to a Mcintosh MCC602TM"

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Rex
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First, let me say I apologize for the hijack.

Yeah, Nak amps aren't the best, and I'm more thinking of the older PA 301, 302, 304, I think they're sexy . & I'm not really a fan of the Alpine look for an HU.

There's a CD-700 on ebay right now, but I'm going Kenwood CD (already have) and MD (STOLE on ebay). I have an old school Phoenix Gold amp, but would really like to go Nak HU & M44/M110 Phoenix Gold amps, with Focal or Boston Acustic mids/tweets and a McCauley sub.

[/hi jack]

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PoorManQ45
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[you can't end a hijack that PMQ is involved it ]If you can find one on Ebay, I suggest the Nak CD-400 for an HU. But you already have an HU, so that's probably a no go

nuQ
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question guys. if trashing the bose system the bose system, should you use new speaker wire for all four aftermarket speakers???

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elwesso
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You dont have to..... THe stock should be sufficient

Itd be easier that way......

nuQ
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mb quart makes a component 4" with tweets that can be mounted coaxially, without putting them in the a pillar is that the way to go????

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Rex
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nuQ wrote:question guys. if trashing the bose system the bose system, should you use new speaker wire for all four aftermarket speakers???
I'd vote aftermarket unless they used 16 gauge, which I don't think they did. It's not a "must do", but would be the right thing to do.

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Rex
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nuQ wrote:mb quart makes a component 4" with tweets that can be mounted coaxially, without putting them in the a pillar is that the way to go????
If you aren't gonna venture out and try to swap in 94-96 A-pillars, then a good coaxial is the way to go. I'd suggest making an adapter to allow a 5 1/4 or 6 in the front doors. Pioneer makes some very good and affordable coax's.

nuQ
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how hard, and what is involved with the adapter. i know a larger speaker is always better!!!! major cutting, etc/???????

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Rex
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It would be a matter of tracing the "pod" onto cardboard and making a template. You should only need an adapter to mount it in the opening.

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PoorManQ45
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Rex wrote:I'd vote aftermarket unless they used 16 gauge, which I don't think they did. It's not a "must do", but would be the right thing to do.
Bose didn't even run speaker wire from the HU to the amps. The only actually speaker wire is ~4in and it connects the amp to the speaker.

Anyway, the signal wire going from the HU to the amps is 18guage. You definitely want to upgrade it to ~14guage.
nuQ wrote:mb quart makes a component 4" with tweets that can be mounted coaxially, without putting them in the a pillar is that the way to go????
If you use those Components, you are going to need an amplifier to power them. You might be able to power them with the stock Bose amps though.

As for making an adaptor. I suggest using the Bose pod and just expanding the opening. Other wise you will have to make a custom enclosure, or else the whole door would act as an enclosure, which would make it sound like crap.

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Rex
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PoorManQ45 wrote:Bose didn't even run speaker wire from the HU to the amps. The only actually speaker wire is ~4in and it connects the amp to the speaker ...
"The wire" speaker/signal WHATEVER, if it's not at least 16, I'd suggest replacing it, sheez.
PoorManQ45 wrote: ... As for making an adaptor. I suggest using the Bose pod and just expanding the opening. Other wise you will have to make a custom enclosure, or else the whole door would act as an enclosure, which would make it sound like crap.


Yes, using the whole door would be bad, I would suggest using a foam "hat" that can act as a speaker baffle.

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PoorManQ45
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Rex wrote: "The wire" speaker/signal WHATEVER, if it's not at least 16, I'd suggest replacing it, sheez.
Sorry, I be anal tonight , and ever other night too
Rex wrote: Yes, using the whole door would be bad, I would suggest using a foam "hat" that can act as a speaker baffle.
Hmm.. I've heard of these foam things before, but where can you get them?

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Rex
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PoorManQ45 wrote:... Hmm.. I've heard of these foam things before, but where can you get them?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0...avf=N


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