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Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
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kentuckyslider
Posts: 574
Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 7:51 pm
Car: 02 IS300 manual/03 G35 sedan auto

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I am trying to get my suspension dialed in for autocross and need some advice. First I'll tell you what I have, then maybe you can tell me what I need.

Front:Tein springs with tokico HP strutsnew OEM fr. LCA'sCS tension rods/JGY under bracetein inner and outter tie rods with OEM bootsSPC camber bolts

Rear:Tein springs and tokico strutsCS RUCA'SJGY subframe bushing collarshyperflex Z32 diff bushing set

I am wondering about steering rack bushings and what other bushings are important from the Energy Suspension master set. Also good sway bars for the money and I am also leaning toward CS front and rear strut braces. Also camber degree and alignment settings would be nice to pass along to my alignment guy. I am adding a summit oil filter relocation kit and oil cooler and sticking with the stock oil pan, also swaping in a Skyline R32 4.36 rear end with the new diff bushings.



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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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This belongs in Suspension.

240s really can benefit quite well from a good rear sway bar. We hooked up a skyline gts-t rear sway bar to one of our auto-x coupes, and it really woke the car up.

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kentuckyslider
Posts: 574
Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 7:51 pm
Car: 02 IS300 manual/03 G35 sedan auto

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Thanx hijacker. Sorry I am a newby and have sr20 rear drive in my favs. I'm learning.

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kentuckyslider
Posts: 574
Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 7:51 pm
Car: 02 IS300 manual/03 G35 sedan auto

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Can I get a little help. please. Have all my parts in ready to go to the alignment shop, just need to know what ES bushings to get. Don't think I need the master set? Also I have K sport springs not tein on this S13. Want some adj struts(KYB, Tokico, Koni) don't want to spend $1000 on struts, if I did I would buy coilovers. Can't find tokico illuminas or DS for the S13??? Any help would be appreciated.

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nismofly
Posts: 12505
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2004 3:16 pm
Car: 89 Nissan 240SX Hatch

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if youre hoping to be at all competitive since afaik youre going to be in SM, youll want a lot more than what youre talking suspension wise

look into koni yellows for the dampers and then look at upping your spring rates with at least some rs*r race or something of that nature, or getting a set of ground controls so you can specify the rates

from there i cant recall what the rules allow, but if its not your daily look into solid bushings instead of the energys, im pretty sure theyre allowed in SM

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kentuckyslider
Posts: 574
Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 7:51 pm
Car: 02 IS300 manual/03 G35 sedan auto

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rs*r race? Link for the koni's

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crackler
Posts: 1145
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 3:45 pm
Car: ZOMG JDM TYT3

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RS*R makes springs. If I had to guess, straight rate springs at that, not the "progressive" springs.Also Eibach, and Hypercoil make good springs. Find a local reputable race shop (not some tuner shop, find out where your autox / road racer friends go) they should be able to help source your shocks and springs as well as possible recommend rates. I don't know what rates are usually run on the 240. but their are a lot of factors that go into choosing spring rates.

With the ground control, you can basically run any spring rates you want, assuming that they are made in the size you need, and won't destroy your shocks. You will need to find out what the max spring rate is for for what ever shock you get. Also know that the Koni's have to be removed and the springs have to be pulled to adjust the rears. The front's use that cool little knob.

BTW, I run Koni Yellows and G/C sleeves with Eibach springs and LOVE my set up.

Just Google Koni NA or Koni North America.

The Konis are going to run you about $600, plus probably another 250 - 300 for the springs as well. And another 450 (I think) for the Ground Control sleeves.


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kentuckyslider
Posts: 574
Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 7:51 pm
Car: 02 IS300 manual/03 G35 sedan auto

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Thanx, I'm working on copying your setup.

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crackler
Posts: 1145
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 3:45 pm
Car: ZOMG JDM TYT3

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kentuckyslider wrote:Thanx, I'm working on copying your setup.
I have a miata now. YMMV.

AceInhole
Posts: 478
Joined: Mon Apr 07, 2003 1:36 pm

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Really, it depends on how serious you want to get. To be competitive on the national level, you'll probably want to start by mirroring my build or Jason Rhoades'.

We each went:Koni race shocks Eibach ERS springs KA TurboHoosier tires (285/30/R18 front, 315/30/R18 rear)

We trade off from there, where Rhoades' build was compromised by STS-legal parts (bushing vs bearing) vs my cheaper/ heavier shocks and struts (28's vs 86's). Both of our cars were "successful" on the national level, though.

Also, I don't recommend running a rear bar for a 240sx. Dropping the rear bar helps reduce bind in back. Otherwise, our cars seem to enjoy lifting rear tires.

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kentuckyslider
Posts: 574
Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 7:51 pm
Car: 02 IS300 manual/03 G35 sedan auto

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I am trying to order some ground contol sleeves with eibach springs but I don't know what spring rate to get for the S13? What do you have? Koni yellows? A link to where you got your shocks please? Thanx for all the help.

Kalypso
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Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:10 am

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crackler
Posts: 1145
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 3:45 pm
Car: ZOMG JDM TYT3

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AceInhole wrote:Also, I don't recommend running a rear bar for a 240sx. Dropping the rear bar helps reduce bind in back. Otherwise, our cars seem to enjoy lifting rear tires.
Is there a minimum spring rate one needs to run before pulling the bar?

On the Yata's anything under 450lbs in the rear and the "conventional" wisdom suggests running a rear bar (depending on grip available, ect), anything over 450; drop the bar. Just wondering if the same was true on the 240's or not.

nismoautoxr
Posts: 66
Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 1:56 am
Car: 95 S14
Contact:

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I dont have an S-13 but I do performance alignments on a daily basis for autox and HPDE and for most McPherson strut cars the front camber is as aggressive as the car and the adjustability will allow.-3.0 camber on the front is a good number to shoot for and 2-2.5 is good for the rear but if youre putting that kind of power down you might wanna stick to -1.5to -1.75 on the rear .

1/8"toe out front and 1/8"toe in on the rear .If you have caster adjustment then 5.5-6.0 degrees on the caster .Thats pretty much stock .Depends on where your adjustments are .If the caster adjustment is on the tension rods then you will have tire rub on the bumper cover if you go much further than stock on the caster.If its on the top of the strut you can get away with it .

I wouldnt fool with caster much unless you really know what youre doing and mods make it impossible to avoid.Much more positive caster than that will can and in most cases induces snap oversteer and a generally unstable ,jittery ,I could go any given direction type of characteristic.

Seattime and tires is going to help you the most .

Spring rates I have had the most success with are 475lbs/sq" front and 325lbs/sq" rear .I run koni yellows rear(be quite sure you get a damper with an external adjustment) with ground control sleeves and eibach single rate springs.The front ...I had GC make me custon uprights with koni dampers for the extra tire clearance .Good luck .

My advice is to go shake the car out as is and tune it based on your results .I learned earlyon that you can throw money at the problme but almost always the problem exists witht he wheel man.

RR

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crackler
Posts: 1145
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 3:45 pm
Car: ZOMG JDM TYT3

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nismoautoxr wrote:My advice is to go shake the car out as is and tune it based on your results .I learned earlyon that you can throw money at the problme but almost always the problem exists witht he wheel man.

RR
Truer words have never been spoken.


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