tires break loose on 1-2 shift causes ABS malfunction

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gwoods
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Soooo,

My car has always chirped the tires on the 1-2 shift about half the time especially in DS mode.

The dealership says no worries and I have the transmission serviced every 20k miles.

I am running drilled and slotted rotors which the manual says can cause problems.

Last November I was driving my son to school. The car in front of me was driving 30-35 mph in a 45 mph zone, I floored it pulled out to pass. VDC was turned off I passed the other car and changed lanes about the same time the car made the 1-2 shift. The rear tires broke loose big time on the 1-2 shift and the SLIP light illuminated and stayed illuminated.

At the next red light I put the car in park turned it off and then turned it back on. The slip light and VDC light both were still illuminated when I restarted the car. I was about 3 blocks from my sons school so I kept driving and called my Infiniti service manager while driving.

During those three blocks the car started shifting very very hard and would not shift past 3rd gear.

I had the car towed to the dealership. At the dealership all the lights were off and the car was back to normal. I had a few stored codes

The code that stuck out was C1130 7 times? "operation of ABS' I also had the below codes C1704 RR sensor circuit faultC1706 LR center sensor circuit failureC1708 RR center sensor circuit short to Vbat

The car has started to have this issue more frequently. If I turn the car off and count to 30 when I restart the car all is back to normal.

So what do you think? The dealership blames my brakes BUT I am off warranty in 3500 miles



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Focusedintntions
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I don't understand how slotted rotors would cause issues with your abs system. i could potentially see larger brakes causing an issue, but as long as the rotors are the same size you should be fine....

Your transmission issue seems very similar to the problem my dad was having with his mazda6. It would do somethign similar and shift very hard. his fix ended up being a 100 dollar transmission cooler kit he bought at napa and installed. I think it's your transmission overheating and when you shut if it off it cools and resets itself. May want to try that out...

Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
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That sucks... and the autos are even harder to get replaced under warranty because the computer will prevent damage to the trans.

I know that rotors don't have anything to do with the ABS.... The car can't tell if it is a solid or slotted or cross drilled rotor... or can it?

Keep us posted

DJ

Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT
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Oh and infiniti power train warranty is 7 years 70k miles...

so if you need a new trans it will be covered still!

DJ

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gwoods
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Hu your right for some reason I had 4 year 60 k in my mind.

From the owners manual 5-51.

"if brake related parts such as brake pads, rotors and calipers are not standard equipment r are extremely deteriorated the "VDC OFF" indicator or "SLIP" indicator or both indicator lights may illuminate."

I acutally think it is the brakes but I really wanted some input.

I think when the tires chirp or spin once the ABS sensors kindof loose track of tire rotation and they cause the malfunction lights to come on and the car to go into limp mode. Restarting the car resets the ABS system and takes it out of limp mode.

I HATE the stock brakes with the fire of 1000 suns so that is not an option. My plan is to go from 235/50/17 on all 4 corners to 255/50/17 on the rear only. I don't think the car will be able to chirp/spin 255's on the 1-2 shift.

My biggest concern is it seems to be happening more frequently. I'm pulling over to restart the car about once a week.


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telcoman
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I think it is because of no daylight savings time in AZ.

Telcoman

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gwoods
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come spend a July here and then I will ask you.... do you think Arizona needs anymore daylight?

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telcoman
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gwoods wrote:come spend a July here and then I will ask you.... do you think Arizona needs anymore daylight?
I was in Scotsdale for a 5 day training seminar in July 2000 at a Marriott

I was in the pool every morning at 4:15 AM watching the mountains in the distance change color as it got light.

I remember eating at an outdoor restaurant that sprayed a fine mist into the air.

Dry heat my a$$. It was so freeking hot

I'll take a Northeastern noreaster blizzard any day with a day off work until the roads are plowed

Telcoman

pippen99
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I moved from the Midwest to Phoenix for about 1 1/2 years once upon a time. I expected the temp during the summer to be 108 and was ready to deal with it. What I was not ready for was the temp still being 100 at midnight and beyond! I stood it for awhile then beat it back to the Midwest cheerfully and gratefully.

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Yea im thinking that I would never be able to handle that heat!

pfarmer
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gwoods wrote:Hu your right for some reason I had 4 year 60 k in my mind.

From the owners manual 5-51.

"if brake related parts such as brake pads, rotors and calipers are not standard equipment r are extremely deteriorated the "VDC OFF" indicator or "SLIP" indicator or both indicator lights may illuminate."

I acutally think it is the brakes but I really wanted some input.

I think when the tires chirp or spin once the ABS sensors kindof loose track of tire rotation and they cause the malfunction lights to come on and the car to go into limp mode. Restarting the car resets the ABS system and takes it out of limp mode.

I HATE the stock brakes with the fire of 1000 suns so that is not an option. My plan is to go from 235/50/17 on all 4 corners to 255/50/17 on the rear only. I don't think the car will be able to chirp/spin 255's on the 1-2 shift.

My biggest concern is it seems to be happening more frequently. I'm pulling over to restart the car about once a week.
If you want to upgrade the stock brakes upgrade the rotors ot a new quality set of solids with quality pads. There are few if any reasons to have drilled and/or slotted rotors on a street 'G' other than looks (maybe if you track it). If this fixes your problem you are home free, if not than the dealer most likely has just lost his argument.

Perry

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Focusedintntions
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Perry he def tracks it...you should see his vids

pfarmer
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Focusedintntions wrote:Perry he def tracks it...you should see his vids
I hope he doesn't claim warranty work if it fails.

But then even if he does, me still probably doesn't need anything other than solid rotors unless he possibly does so in the wet.

Perry

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gwoods
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Thanks Perry,

Yeah I track the car, my dealership Infiniti of Scottsdale pays for my track time and license every year. I wrote an article and took photos for IOS and NICO at the last event. I had an opportunity to spend some time in the new G37 convertable but the car mags pitched a fit to Infiniti North America because they didn't get the first shot so the article got yanked.

I'm on my own at the dragstrip.

I have drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. The dealership cleared my codes and tested the ABS sensors/system when I took the car in the first time. My concern is the malfunction is happening more often. I wonder if I have a failing ABS sensor?

Quick check on the local auto recyclers.... I can get a 2007 G sedan transmission from a total with 2,000 miles on it for $1485 and I know I can do the swap in a long Sunday. I guess I'll stop worrying about going of warrenty.


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RED_DET
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If the VDC was turned off, then you should not have any slip light issues. I say abs issue.

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gwoods
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VDC is always off if I'm in the drivers seat.

I think I may make a second trip to the dealer

adren77
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It may have something to do with you constantly abusing your car.

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zozoka1212
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adren77 wrote:It may have something to do with you constantly abusing your car.
Nah most of us killing the car and still run perfect. On my 07 I needed new rotors and brakes on all 4 corners at 17-18k if I remeber right.

I think it is something else. Maybe the ABS as you said. Many many people switching over to drilled rotors and different pads and so far I've never seen problem any on the 07+ G.

Hope it all gets sorted out for you Jeff.

pfarmer
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gwoods wrote:Thanks Perry,

Yeah I track the car, my dealership Infiniti of Scottsdale pays for my track time and license every year. I wrote an article and took photos for IOS and NICO at the last event. I had an opportunity to spend some time in the new G37 convertable but the car mags pitched a fit to Infiniti North America because they didn't get the first shot so the article got yanked.

I'm on my own at the dragstrip.

I have drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. The dealership cleared my codes and tested the ABS sensors/system when I took the car in the first time. My concern is the malfunction is happening more often. I wonder if I have a failing ABS sensor?

Quick check on the local auto recyclers.... I can get a 2007 G sedan transmission from a total with 2,000 miles on it for $1485 and I know I can do the swap in a long Sunday. I guess I'll stop worrying about going of warrenty.
I find the key statements are that you seem to be at least partially dealership sponsored. My big issues are those that race and then want their cars repaired under warranty.

The second one has to do with the brakes, ceramic pads. There are a lot of questions about rotors. My point is that for street use the best rotors probably are blanks with high quality pads. I figure that this can change depending on the track use. While blanks probably heat up slower due to their mass, they must cool down slower as well due to their mass. Many statements will state that they give up their heat faster. My experience states otherwise when it comes to objects with a larger mass.

My belief is that drilled and/or slotted brakes will actually get warmer faster due to less mass which is typical of the rotors for same size in diameter. They however will give up heat faster as well. Since the purpose of brakes is to convert the energy of the car to heat this seems like the objective you want to look for, the ability of gaining and loosing heat. On a street car as long as this rate is satisfactory then the blanks are probably the way to go since there are some other benefits to consider like longevity. For the track to me it depends on the track, how often are you in and out of your brakes, how deep, wet conditions, and so on? Porsche for example goes with drilled on many sponsored cars but state they do so because they perform better for wet conditions, others go with larger rotors, etc., and concentrate on augmenting cooling. With modern pads the issue of outgassing isn't nearly the problem it once was so I don't think for that purpose you get much out of the cross drilled / slotted rotors, on the other hand you may get some benefit as far as faster cooling due to the lower mass of these rotors as well as maybe a benefit that is often claimed as far as keeping the pads fresh.

As far as drilled bothering ABS, I could see how that could be possible, just doesn't seem like it should. If the car throws codes related to ABS I wonder if the codes are such that it could give a hint on which sensor assuming that is the problem. As far as the slots, I could also see how that is possible, but then I haven't heard of this being a major issue on other cars. It brings up a point though when you stated it seems to be occurring more often and maybe that could be related to the slots which are becoming more shallow due to wear.

Perry


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Sorry you're having problems bro, take it in to the dealer again.

As it happens more and more frequently, it makes me wonder about how the heat may be affecting your situation as I assume it's getting hotter and hotter all the time.

I would say some sort of ABS Malfunction, combined with heat from harder driving. Especially because the issues disapear after 30 seconds... so strange, hopefully you figure this out without getting so much as a headache.

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zozoka1212 wrote:
Nah most of us killing the car and still run perfect. On my 07 I needed new rotors and brakes on all 4 corners at 17-18k if I remeber right.

I think it is something else. Maybe the ABS as you said. Many many people switching over to drilled rotors and different pads and so far I've never seen problem any on the 07+ G.

Hope it all gets sorted out for you Jeff.
Yeah, I was thinking yesterday how surprising it is that my car still runs so well, I burn the H#$% out of my G35, I love it, I have mad respect for Nissan Infiniti.

pfarmer
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gwoods wrote:Hu your right for some reason I had 4 year 60 k in my mind.

From the owners manual 5-51.

"if brake related parts such as brake pads, rotors and calipers are not standard equipment r are extremely deteriorated the "VDC OFF" indicator or "SLIP" indicator or both indicator lights may illuminate."

I acutally think it is the brakes but I really wanted some input.

My biggest concern is it seems to be happening more frequently. I'm pulling over to restart the car about once a week.
You state that you count to 30 and then the problem disappears on the restart. Do you have to want the 30 seconds or whatever the time is?

Also if the codes are both rear related maybe there is a common cabling issue, maybe nothing more than a connector.

Perry


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