tired of SR20

V8 240sx? Sure! If either the chassis OR the engine is non-Nissan (i.e. SR20 in an RX-7 or LS1 in a 240sx), we've done it.
blackslide
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:56 am
Car: 95 240sx with SR20 Blacktop
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I need something new and dependable i was thinking about going with a 350 in there but i was wondering if anyone else has any ideas cause i spent to much on my sr and just blew it up for the second time any ideas


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Agent 47
Posts: 62
Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2007 2:51 am
Car: 90 caprice,lt1 swap,22's,hurricane killed it, '90 coupe stock

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Dependability is key for me also that's why I may go 4.6 or 5.0 once more info. Is available. Custom mounts will be a must so prepare for it. My car is my daily so I can't have my car sitting at some shop while they make mounts, so I'm watching KaTwo40's thread to see what's needed. What went wrong with the sr

blackslide
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:56 am
Car: 95 240sx with SR20 Blacktop
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well i fried one of the pistons the first time now i threw a rod so the shop is going to end up fixing cause its only been three months so i break em in hard so i know they willl last when the warrenty is up. but it just doesn't seem like it can take a beating.

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Logan76
Posts: 7985
Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2006 6:06 am
Car: Junk

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wow, that sure is a dumb statement "I break them in hard so i know they will take a beating" the first 300-1000 miles of your new motors miles should be alot of idling time, and alot of below 3500rpm daily driving...Anyway a 302 is a cheap and easily found motor.

blackslide
Posts: 24
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:56 am
Car: 95 240sx with SR20 Blacktop
Contact:

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im not a retard i know you got to break in the pistons for the first 500 miles but when i get up to about 800-1000 miles i open them up and see what they can do break it like your going drive it if you baby it it will want to be babied all the time

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nani
Posts: 440
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 6:52 pm
Car: 89-240sx

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well there is the solution. stop abusing your engine

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Swedish Mike
Posts: 1199
Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2005 9:31 pm
Car: Golf TDI, Volvo 850T5 and 200sx S13 Hatch

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If you break it in hard you will wear down everything faster (bearings, rings, pistons...) and the engine will perform like at 50.000 mile engine really fast. The problem is that it wont last that long.Most engines perform better with miles and then turn to performing worse after X miles, a big myth about the magical "hard break in".

There is no other way to explain it.

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Fahaka
Posts: 632
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2002 5:20 pm
Car: '96 S14 '07 Versa
Location: Oceanside CA
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I detonated in the #1 cylinder and cracked a ring land, destroyed two rings and scored the cylinder wall.

I rebuilt with eagle rods and cp pistons and my break in consisted of:

idling the motor for about 15 minutes to make sure there were no cooling issues and to check the oil pressure.

within 2 minutes of the first drive I was revving the motor past 5500 rpm at 12 psi and then letting off the throttle decelerating with engine braking only to let the rings see pressure and vacuum...

I did this several times (about 10) then I drove the car normally for 500 miles and changed the oil.

I'm closing in on 1000 miles and it runs fine.

SR's are fine...but they are turbo'd and that means more stuff can go wrong...

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WDRacing
Moderator
Posts: 23925
Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 2:00 am
Car: 95 240SX, 99 BMW 540i, 01 Chevy Express, 14 Ford Escape
Location: MFFO
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For the record IMO, the carbed 383 is the most reliable combo without sacrificing power. Especially in a 240, you'll be able to boil the tires through 4 gears or putt through traffic.

And it'll run forever.

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Logan76
Posts: 7985
Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2006 6:06 am
Car: Junk

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umm you guys talk of breaking in your car's hard, what about your clutches? your motor may last forever, but your clutch surely isnt loving the 5500rpm pulls after a rebuild.

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WDRacing
Moderator
Posts: 23925
Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 2:00 am
Car: 95 240SX, 99 BMW 540i, 01 Chevy Express, 14 Ford Escape
Location: MFFO
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There are two views on engine breakin, neither has been proven to be better then other. Alot of race shops I know of, break them in hard. You also have to remember in order to tune the car it's getting a dyno thrashing so you can tune the loaded portion of the maps.

I've done both myself. But I go through alot of parts either way. There is nothing wrong with taking the slower method and performing the break-in over say 1500 miles. Just make sure to vary the loads to include high vacuum decel. In either case lugging the engine is a bad thing, by that I mean going up hill in a low gear or simply shifting to early and bogging the motor. And never use Synthetic, although I switch to full synth after 500 miles personally.

As for the clutch, that dude needs 500 miles.

WD

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Fahaka
Posts: 632
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2002 5:20 pm
Car: '96 S14 '07 Versa
Location: Oceanside CA
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when I popped my motor I just reused my clutch...there was no clutch break in required


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