Not bad.
But, like almost all these charts and programs of this type, it is only a starting point to build from!
These charts cannot take into account the specific diameter changes with particular models of tires and wheel sizes and car loading, etc. This means that some calculations are slightly incorrect (like speedo errors when varying the tire size from OEM values). In fact, the very same tire size from different brands and even different models within the same brand, can have differences!
The safest thing to do is use the Manufacturers specific brand/model "revs/mile" numbers and other information to do the calculations. I provide these in the tire spreadsheet in the stickies in this forum for a variety of typical brands and models and sizes.
Also, something to be aware for larger diameter rims. It is not always obvious whether a particular tire and rim will work - particularly for wider rims. The reason is the tire section width, section profile and tread width differences. With larger diameters, the lower aspect ratios do not allow for much tolerance in section profiles. And, thus, you may experience contact with the suspension and/or the fender in circumstances where you might not expect any!
With unusual diameters or wide rims, it is always best to do a proper fitment test. First do the bare rims yourself to make sure they work without contact, and then get a friendly installer to mount one wheel and tire and then check out whether the combination will work on your car - front and back and both fronts - turning the steering wheel, etc.
In close tolerance cases, you should lower the car and have someone sit inside it, so that it is "loaded" with the correct weight to do the fitment checks. However, if you find yourself needing to do this, you are pushing the limits of what is possible on a given car, IMHO.
Z