My current daily had Continentals as OEM, replacements were Yokohamas, and those Yokohamas were then replaced by Goodyear. The 16 Rogue had Dunlops for the 109k miles it was alive. With that said, my tire guy pushed me away from Pirelli. Same did my Honda dealer and Costco, and all 3 said get Michelins. If I were you, I'd get the Michelins or Bridgestone. Both of the tires you listed were on my list of tire choices, but both weren't up in the top choices for me. Since you had positive experience with Michelin, stick with them.D1dad wrote: ↑Wed Apr 14, 2021 8:41 amThe 2018 needs new shoes. The Hankooks were quiet and smooth but at 40k are down to 3/32. I guess for OEM you can’t (sadly) expect more than that. Although the continentals that came on my 09 Altima lasted forever. I’ve got it narrowed down price wise between Pirelli Scorpion Verde Plus 2 or Michelin Primacy all season. I’ve never owned Pirelli or can’t say that I’ve ridden in a car that had them on. I’ve found that with Michelin you usually always get consistency and smoothness and every set I’ve had have balanced out perfect. The tire guy is trying to persuade me into Pirelli, maybe they make more off the set. He claims the Michelin is old technology while the Pirellis are a true SUV tire. Does anyone have any personal feedback on either set? I’ve owned Defenders and the Costco only Michelin, but never Primacy. Warranty wise which I’ve learned over the years, doesn’t mean squat = 55k for Michelin and 65k for Pirelli, so not enough to matter one way or the other.
D1dad actually said they went from 49 to near 60, that the sticker pressure was 33. If they were already overinflated that badly then the PTV Laws say the gas in the tire will already be warmer than normal. I'd imagine it could start a reinforcing feedback cycle where the gas heats the tire and the hotter tire heats the gas, increasing the pressure and heating the tire etc etc etc. I think an 8~10 psi movement after a long drive sounds entirely plausible.
Can and should are two different things. Even at 60 psi, you don't want your chin to be in the way if a weak sidewall lets go (and yes, that's the voice of rude experience gained while trying to seat new rubber on a stubborn rim). The cold rating printed on the sidewall will exceed a bit when warm and still be safe, but you go past that at your own risk.casperfun wrote: ↑Sun Apr 18, 2021 2:32 pmI read or heard that a typical tire can go to 100 psi and are pretty hardy. It’s within their normal tolerance levels for safety reason. Just don’t keep it at that pressure obviously.
I’m not saying to take it to that level, but if tires were not that robust, tires would be blowing up if they did indeed went to 60psi.
Moreover, I believe when all those Firestone tires were splitting, exploding, or whatever the issue, it was due to under inflation.
+1 ^^^ This.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Sun Apr 18, 2021 2:53 pmJust an aside, underinflated tires get hot for a different (and completely unrelated) reason, mechanical flexion. They squirm and bow constantly while underway, and that heats them up for the same reason as a paperclip or coathanger flexed over and over and over until it breaks.
+1 ^^^ This too! I bike also, Kawi Vulcan. Couldn't have said it better.Lone Wolff wrote: ↑Sun Apr 18, 2021 5:09 pmEvery motorcycle tire mfg recommends maintaining their tires at the MAX cold PSI on the tire sidewall at all times. This is especially true in southern states where the asphalt temps in the summers can get approx 60 degrees warmer than the air temps.
Tire temperature is more important on motorcycle tires compared to auto tires due to the tire carcass flex having a direct impact on handling and braking. With passenger cars and trucks, variances in tire pressure has a larger impact on comfort rather than performance.