Hey guys, I had a couple of questions regarding tires.
What are the good and bad qualities about having:A: More tire than wheelB: Less tire than wheelC: Wheels and tire are both FLUSH with each other..??
Reason why i was asking is cause I went to my local tire store to price out some new tires and I had a HORRIBLE experience..!!
ThanksRobert
Tire Question
If you are concerned about WIDTH issues, there is a general rule of thumb regarding matching a tire's width to a wheel's width, and it's very simple: (to the layman).... a tire's relaxed(static, unmounted) distance measured from bead to bead across the cross section of the tire, is optimal wheel width.
Check a tire sitting in a display rack. As it sits unmounted, the beads are near their exact ideal range of mounting widths. This is not technical by any means, but it does make sense.
For specifics, check out each tire maker's sites. They usually give specs, and ideal rim widths for each tire they make. Happy hunting!
To answer your question more clearly, a flush tire/'wheel fitment is usually closest to what the tire manufacturer will recommend.
Check a tire sitting in a display rack. As it sits unmounted, the beads are near their exact ideal range of mounting widths. This is not technical by any means, but it does make sense.
For specifics, check out each tire maker's sites. They usually give specs, and ideal rim widths for each tire they make. Happy hunting!
To answer your question more clearly, a flush tire/'wheel fitment is usually closest to what the tire manufacturer will recommend.
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Grant@tirerack
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yep, thats why my 225-45-17's are on a 7.5" wheel..the measuring and "ideal" width for my tire 
it is, for lack of a better term, exactly flush mounted, with a slight roll of the edges on the trear surface.
Anyways, both smith and GRant are vastly knowledgeable(probably more than me!) about these things, and posted good points.
if the tire is too wide for the wheel(by this definition I dont mean it;s within the approved rim range, that just determines if it s'safe') and spreads out from the sides, it will concave a bit on the wheel(or is it convex? the domed side would be up..) and cause handling issues, but would, arguably have a slightly wider contact patch than the proper sized tire...for instance
moutning a 245-45-17 on a 17x7.5 versus a 225-45-17, sure the 245 is wider, but it will bulge a bit and not handle the stress as well, IMO.
likewise mounting a 205-45-17 or something on my wheels would cause the shogulders to round out prematurely and stress the bead quite a bit in the opposite way a wide tire does, this leads to a more "progressive" feel in some situations, and makes drifting the tire a bit easier since its progressive and will seat the bead stiff enough the tire will not roll(sidewall roll) usually speaking.
hopefully I didnt screw any of that up-chet
it is, for lack of a better term, exactly flush mounted, with a slight roll of the edges on the trear surface.Anyways, both smith and GRant are vastly knowledgeable(probably more than me!) about these things, and posted good points.
if the tire is too wide for the wheel(by this definition I dont mean it;s within the approved rim range, that just determines if it s'safe') and spreads out from the sides, it will concave a bit on the wheel(or is it convex? the domed side would be up..) and cause handling issues, but would, arguably have a slightly wider contact patch than the proper sized tire...for instance
moutning a 245-45-17 on a 17x7.5 versus a 225-45-17, sure the 245 is wider, but it will bulge a bit and not handle the stress as well, IMO.
likewise mounting a 205-45-17 or something on my wheels would cause the shogulders to round out prematurely and stress the bead quite a bit in the opposite way a wide tire does, this leads to a more "progressive" feel in some situations, and makes drifting the tire a bit easier since its progressive and will seat the bead stiff enough the tire will not roll(sidewall roll) usually speaking.
hopefully I didnt screw any of that up
-chet