Tips on Boosting my S14 N/A SR(similar to boosting N/A KA)

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E7-S14
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Car: ess 14 foo!
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ive decided to go froward with this now instead of lateri haven't really messed with boosting any cars up until now

i chose to also post this in the KA-T forum as you guys boost Unboosted motors and thought you could help me out with my main concerns

my main questions for you guys are where are the best places to tap oil and coolant lines for the turbo.Im trying to avoid drilling into the block where the stock locations are

For Coolant Return line a friend told me to tap it from my waterneck going to the rad and for the feed line tap it from a heater core hose.

ill assume that's a good idea

as far as oil and oil return lineswheres a good place for those?

a friend of mine that owns a shop will be helping me do this and he knows places to tap and what not as hes done this before but i figured id ask you guys first.

and if you guys have any tips for me (like certain parts used) that would be helpful

im using all stock s13/s14 turbo parts of the job with the exception of bov/ and lines.

i also posted this in the KA-T forum as they boost unboosted motors too

thanks for anyhelp


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DevilMB3017
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I'd follow the advice for tapping the stock KA oil pan found on JGS website which is go as straight down as possible, and go at an angle down into your pan, without using any 90* or 45* fittings.

As for water, with the KA there are small water lines that go to the throttle body on the intake mani. If that is also on the SR20DE, I'd T those off or run them over that way. There is a great write up somewhere in here at it.

crzycav86
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Car: 93 Nissan 240SX KAT

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Most guys here don't use coolant lines. I don't have them... and I haven't had any problems.

For the oil feed line, you can tap into the oil pressure switch located near the oil filter. If you do a search, there are some discussions on how to do this on a ka. I don't know if the SR has the same thread specs as the KA..

Aside from that, it should be a bolt-on affair with the SR stuff.

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480sx
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Car: 1996 Pearl White 240sx

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I wouldnt even bother with the coolant lines personally. If you have a turbo timer or let your turbo cool down before you shut it off you wont have any problems.

The oil feed can be done the same way we do the Ka. From the oil distribution block.

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E7-S14
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480sx wrote:I wouldn't even bother with the coolant lines personally. If you have a turbo timer or let your turbo cool down before you shut it off you wont have any problems.

The oil feed can be done the same way we do the Ka. From the oil distribution block.
ill talk to the guy that's doing this about not running any coolant lines at alli just figured you had to have them

and as far as turbo timersare they generally expensive?

and i think thats where Chris(friend) is prob going to tap from. im guessing.

any other tips you guys have? from boosting your kas

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Razi
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The JGS oil line kit which most of us use, Tees inbetween the block and the stock oil pressure sensor.

And about the turbo timers, you can grab one from FRsport.com for around 100.

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480sx
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I pick them up off ebay. Personally, out of all the ones i have used and seen, the Blitz timers takes the win in every way. Size, ease of use, auto timer, other functions, ect. Mines got a boost gauge built in, really kicks *** that i dont need another gauge in the car. Keeps things simple and clean.

I pick them up newish on ebay or the forums for like 80 bucks or less. Less chance of getting one thats been smoked or something on ebay/paypal tho.

Honestly you dont really need a turbo timer. You know when you'v been boosting hard and when your car needs time to idle down and cool off. Your just stuck waiting in the car for that time, thats all. If your on a budget just wait for a timer, its not a necessity at all. Spend that 100 bucks on something important.

JGS for your oil kits.

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DevilMB3017
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Depending on your security system, if you have an alarm most people use an alarm/remote start combo - and most of them have a turbo-timer feature. Instead of spending 100 bucks on a turbo timer, you could spend 300 have an alarm, remote starter, and turbo timer...

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turbo2nr
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Car: 97 240sx (kouki)

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if i were you id just pick up stock sr20 parts (oil pan, oil sending unit/oil lines manifold turbo downpipe, injectors ecu, ect.) and slap them on your car shouldnt be hard, most ka guys copy a sr20 t2 setup, your de should be even easier to do the same..

fuel and timing is key to keep your motor safe.good luck.

honestly if i had a sr20de id make it a bad a** n/a beast a friend of mine has a 300whp build sr20ve , pulls soo hard..

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sunnys14
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 8:59 pm
Car: S14

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I run coolant lines, don't want to kill a 1200 ball-bearing turbo just because I didn't want to run one.

If you have ball bearing turbos, I recommend you run one, their CHRA's only use oil to lube the turbo, not to cool it. Just tap your coolant lines into the throttle body, so easy to do.

I've already killed a S14 T28 turbo because I thought I didn't need coolant lines.

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480sx
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For a BB turbo you have to run coolant lines. The tiny amount of oil that flows through a BB center cartridge cant cool the turbo enough, so coolant is needed.

Not sure how you killed a s14 t28 by not running coolant lines. They are standard journal bearing turbos IIRC. A standard journal bearing does not need coolant running to it, they have a ton of oil that flows through and does a pretty good job of keeping things cool.


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sunnys14
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Car: S14

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S14 T28 is dual ball bearing. It was not standard journal bearing.

The dead ball bearings started making a nasty grinding noise when it spooled up. Barely any shaft play and and the wheels spun freely and did not contact the housings. Ball bearings took a **** for sure.

The S14 T28 turbo I used was off my S13 SR that i ran for 12k miles. 2 weeks after I put it on my KA, it died because I didn't run coolant lines.

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480sx
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Might have been a ceramic bb turbo, they are super sensitive to heat. If coolant isnt run to them, they will swell and seize quick.

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sunnys14
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Car: S14

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S14 Jdm t28 is the same as the S15 t28 but without the inconel turbine wheel and cast divider in the turbine housing. They make the same power, and both are ball bearing.


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