Post by
Julio Bro! »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/julio-bro-u378.html
Sun Dec 07, 2008 2:36 pm
Well my 15 year affair with the 240SX is coming to an end. After costly issues it was time to get a new machine and so the Millennium goes for sale.
Here I want to offer my conclusions on several aspects of mods directed to the daily driver. Casual racers shouldn't take the advices here, unless you plan to "detox" your drive.
* The best mod I did was adding the NISMO strut and shock suspension. It's simply perfect.
* After a few hundred miles with the NISMO suspension, the need for adjustable arms was evident. There are lots of inexpensive options, but the best is one with somekind of poly end links. Pillowballs are more precise, but corrosion brings annoying metal noises which makes the car feel old. This is fixed only by frequent lubrication of the links and you'll get tired of that.
Even if they're more expensive, the poly links bring the peace of mind of not having to get under there for anything.
* The simple but effective Stillen K&N Intake kit does the job without replacing the tubing. The change in sound is a very nice bonus.
* Strut bars are a must. Stillen's is a solid aluminum beauty.
* Don't use a puck type performance clutch, they are too harsh and even puts some "weight" on the engine. An "organic" or street performance type is a smoother option.
* Performance spark plugs and cables improves engine smoothness and acceleration. More smoothness from the use of synthetic oil, better protection is the practical reason.
* When the cooling system begins to fail, take the car to the shop and make sure every hose and gasket is replaced, along with thermostat, pump, and fan clutch. This could be a $300 to $600 job, BUT is much better than having your engine overhauled because of an overheating breakdown. It will give you peace of mind.
* Exhaust is a touchy subject because of so many options and some exclusive offers. The truth is resonation is a b**ch. The OEM tubing is 2 inches in average, which is good, so the least expensive way to go is replace only the cat, resonator, and muffler. Going larger than 2.25" will bring more resonation.
I found the Magnaflow muffler to have a nice sound. For some control of the resonation the best thing I found was the Flowmaster Hushpower II; the thing is so good that my next muffler was going to be a Flowmaster. I know chambers don't give max power, BUT for daily driving it seems that Flowmaster has a good take on controlling internal noise.
* For a bad power window, don't go replacing the motor first. TEST the motor by giving it 12V directly. If it works, then check the amp module very carefully, a broken solder point or corroded connection could be the culprit. Modules are sold in eBay and online stores.
* Although perforated brake rotors look good, slotted rotors are less expensive and will do the same job. Ceramic type pads are way better than other variations; AXXIS brand covers the rotor completely and works great.
* Instead of performance sway bars, replace suspension rubber bushings with poly ones all around. The difference is evident and a lot less expensive.
* Red Line's MTL gear lubricant has an almost magical effect on the manual transmission. Most glitches are solved just by using this lubricant.
I think those are the most important. I hope this helps the remaining warriors out there.
And thanks to the forums on making the affair an enjoyable one.
Modified by Julio Bro! at 11:14 PM 12/9/2008
Modified by Julio Bro! at 11:58 PM 12/9/2008
Modified by Julio Bro! at 1:03 AM 12/10/2008
Modified by Julio Bro! at 2:55 AM 12/15/2008