Tips for daily driver...

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
Julio Bro!
Posts: 290
Joined: Tue Jul 30, 2002 11:01 am
Car: 1993 240SX SE, manual transmission, Stillen intake & strut bar, Magnaflow cat + custom cat-back, NISMO sus

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Well my 15 year affair with the 240SX is coming to an end. After costly issues it was time to get a new machine and so the Millennium goes for sale.

Here I want to offer my conclusions on several aspects of mods directed to the daily driver. Casual racers shouldn't take the advices here, unless you plan to "detox" your drive.

* The best mod I did was adding the NISMO strut and shock suspension. It's simply perfect.

* After a few hundred miles with the NISMO suspension, the need for adjustable arms was evident. There are lots of inexpensive options, but the best is one with somekind of poly end links. Pillowballs are more precise, but corrosion brings annoying metal noises which makes the car feel old. This is fixed only by frequent lubrication of the links and you'll get tired of that.

Even if they're more expensive, the poly links bring the peace of mind of not having to get under there for anything.

* The simple but effective Stillen K&N Intake kit does the job without replacing the tubing. The change in sound is a very nice bonus.

* Strut bars are a must. Stillen's is a solid aluminum beauty.

* Don't use a puck type performance clutch, they are too harsh and even puts some "weight" on the engine. An "organic" or street performance type is a smoother option.

* Performance spark plugs and cables improves engine smoothness and acceleration. More smoothness from the use of synthetic oil, better protection is the practical reason.

* When the cooling system begins to fail, take the car to the shop and make sure every hose and gasket is replaced, along with thermostat, pump, and fan clutch. This could be a $300 to $600 job, BUT is much better than having your engine overhauled because of an overheating breakdown. It will give you peace of mind.

* Exhaust is a touchy subject because of so many options and some exclusive offers. The truth is resonation is a b**ch. The OEM tubing is 2 inches in average, which is good, so the least expensive way to go is replace only the cat, resonator, and muffler. Going larger than 2.25" will bring more resonation.

I found the Magnaflow muffler to have a nice sound. For some control of the resonation the best thing I found was the Flowmaster Hushpower II; the thing is so good that my next muffler was going to be a Flowmaster. I know chambers don't give max power, BUT for daily driving it seems that Flowmaster has a good take on controlling internal noise.

* For a bad power window, don't go replacing the motor first. TEST the motor by giving it 12V directly. If it works, then check the amp module very carefully, a broken solder point or corroded connection could be the culprit. Modules are sold in eBay and online stores.

* Although perforated brake rotors look good, slotted rotors are less expensive and will do the same job. Ceramic type pads are way better than other variations; AXXIS brand covers the rotor completely and works great.

* Instead of performance sway bars, replace suspension rubber bushings with poly ones all around. The difference is evident and a lot less expensive.

* Red Line's MTL gear lubricant has an almost magical effect on the manual transmission. Most glitches are solved just by using this lubricant.

I think those are the most important. I hope this helps the remaining warriors out there.

And thanks to the forums on making the affair an enjoyable one.

Modified by Julio Bro! at 11:14 PM 12/9/2008

Modified by Julio Bro! at 11:58 PM 12/9/2008

Modified by Julio Bro! at 1:03 AM 12/10/2008
Modified by Julio Bro! at 2:55 AM 12/15/2008


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mychalous
Posts: 416
Joined: Sat Mar 22, 2008 1:02 pm
Car: '96 240SX "Silvi"

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Informative write up .Sorry to hear about your S13, hope it all works out in your favour.

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ScrapMetal
Posts: 3420
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:19 am
Car: 1999 Chevrolet S10
1991 Ford Bronco 5.0
Location: Sugarcandy Mountain
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Good info, what's gonna be your next daily?

Julio Bro!
Posts: 290
Joined: Tue Jul 30, 2002 11:01 am
Car: 1993 240SX SE, manual transmission, Stillen intake & strut bar, Magnaflow cat + custom cat-back, NISMO sus

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2009 WRX

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Conquerer
Posts: 319
Joined: Sun Nov 16, 2008 12:40 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX LE

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You bought the S13 brand new in 1993?

Julio Bro!
Posts: 290
Joined: Tue Jul 30, 2002 11:01 am
Car: 1993 240SX SE, manual transmission, Stillen intake & strut bar, Magnaflow cat + custom cat-back, NISMO sus

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Yes, spanking and plastics on the seats in November 1993.

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Conquerer
Posts: 319
Joined: Sun Nov 16, 2008 12:40 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX LE

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I must say, that's pretty awesome, being the only owner of your 15 year old 240. I got my S14 this year and all the time I wonder exactly what she looked like when she came off the assembly line and the dealer lot in 1995. I just wish I could see her... Brand spankin new 240.

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ScrapMetal
Posts: 3420
Joined: Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:19 am
Car: 1999 Chevrolet S10
1991 Ford Bronco 5.0
Location: Sugarcandy Mountain
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Julio Bro! wrote:2009 WRX
Great Car, nice choice. Pics when you get it.

phreaknature
Posts: 140
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:47 pm
Car: 1990 240SX SE
2001 Altima
Location: San Jose, CA
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Julio Bro! wrote:* Don't use a puck type performance clutch, is too harsh and even puts some "weight" on the engine. An "organic" or street performance type is a smoother option
when he mentions organic or street performance, especially on the street performance, aren't the majority of top rated and excellent rating clutch kits made with puck types?

GreeNgRASsHoppeR
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 1:12 pm

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phreaknature wrote:
when he mentions organic or street performance, especially on the street performance, aren't the majority of top rated and excellent rating clutch kits made with puck types?
Like he said above these "puck" types are too harsh for the street, meaning they engage instantaneously upon letting out the clutch....Which is not "needed" under normal/daily driving conditions, although some like the sudden jerk every time they let out the clutch. He is speaking of street performance, not top of the line racing, which has better durability and holding power over the stock clutch. The racing clutches are primarily used in drag/ high horsepower applications that need the substantial grabbing power of a puck type clutch. hope this helps a bit........Great write up by the way excellent information great for anyone starting out

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sbird1
Posts: 6211
Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 8:47 am
Car: 2006 BMW 325i
Location: Savannah, GA

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^ Nice first post. Welcome to NICO.

Julio Bro!
Posts: 290
Joined: Tue Jul 30, 2002 11:01 am
Car: 1993 240SX SE, manual transmission, Stillen intake & strut bar, Magnaflow cat + custom cat-back, NISMO sus

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That's the point exactly GreeNgRASsHoppeR, thanks for the tech details.

Also, many brands offer various combinations of clutch disc and pressure plate. You can find organic/street discs along very high clamping plates, still less harsh than puck types.

phreaknature
Posts: 140
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:47 pm
Car: 1990 240SX SE
2001 Altima
Location: San Jose, CA
Contact:

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i think i get it. so lets assume i'm going for a moderatly powered 240, say around 250hp with a stage 2 clutch (if i read them right, stage 2 can handle hp around that number) BUT only using the vehicle itself for daily driving, there's no sensibility to use a puck type clutch unless, like you stated GreeNgRASsHoppeR, the driver intends to have the gear(?result of letting out the clutch?) engage instantly or for the purposes of street... err.. performance-ish driving. do i have that half right at least?

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sbird1
Posts: 6211
Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 8:47 am
Car: 2006 BMW 325i
Location: Savannah, GA

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My 240 was pushing near 300 at the wheels. Stock clutch did the job fine. I didn't even need to upgrade to a stage 2, but it's up to you.


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