timming is way out of wack.

[Not_a_sr]

well the car is 85% back togther.i was working all nght friday getting it ready to take it out to a drift even on sunday. just to spectate not compete. about 5am i was running the motor and getting the timming set, problem. the CAS is in the middle, and the timming marks on the pulley are on the opposite side that the pointer is. no way it will line up at all... the motor seems to run okay. its got bad plugs so its missing a little here and there.

ive checked the timming at the cams. setting both points on the marks on the marks on the timming cover. it lines the pulley up to zero. took out the first plug put a screwdriver in it and rotated the crank by hand as its comming up on 15deg BTDC its rising , gets to zero its begins to fall as it passes zero mark . so im assuming thats correct, im really not looking forward to pulling off the pulley and cover to check it

im goin to pull eCU codes after dinner any suggestions or imput im open to hearing it!

thanks jon

[pulsar gtr]

It can be couple of cases.

One case is your timing belt is off from the crank pulley, but I doubt it since you checked by sticking a screw driver on the top of the piston, not very accurate but it will work.Second, the CAS can be going out of alignment, seen it before, but I doubt that is your problem as you mentioned the car seems to run good.

One thing which I have seen lots of it on the CA is the crank pulley, the outer side of the pulley is connected to the inner side of the pulley by a rubber damper, this rubber damper tend to tear a bit and throws the timing reading way off, you might end up replacing the crank pulley.

Good luck,

RafiPULSAR GTR

[biosehnsucht]

if the crank is off by 180deg, then your timing would be backwards but still have the piston in the right position for the screwdriver test, woudln't it?

[pulsar gtr]

no, if Piston #1 is all the way up whether you use a screw drive or not, that puts crank sprocket marks exactly at the timing mark.

PULSAR GTRRafi

[DjLiquid]

speaking of timing, whats the best way to set my timing since im not too sure what cams have open and shut valves and how high my pistons are. I dont want to turn the cams and bend anything or do the same with the crank. Where should the crank pulley be set to so that none of the pistons are near tdc.

I seemed to overlook this somehow. My bad

[biosehnsucht]

er, yes, I'm an idiot. duh. nevermind.

[Not_a_sr]

ok, so far took off the cam front cover, when i do the screwdriver test again , i get TDC with the cam marks on the back over marks to match, but then i also get it TDC and they will be nearly lined up facing togther towards the center of the motor. is this correct?

im so out of practice on this stuff its not funny... this is the only thing keeping me at work till its finished and i really wanted to be out with friends tonight, besides i have to be back here at 8am for work which sucks big time.

[Not_a_sr]

im guessing im wrong and that im on an exhaust stroke..

[Not_a_sr]

It can be couple of cases.

One case is your timing belt is off from the crank pulley, but I doubt it since you checked by sticking a screw driver on the top of the piston, not very accurate but it will work.Second, the CAS can be going out of alignment, seen it before, but I doubt that is your problem as you mentioned the car seems to run good.

One thing which I have seen lots of it on the CA is the crank pulley, the outer side of the pulley is connected to the inner side of the pulley by a rubber damper, this rubber damper tend to tear a bit and throws the timing reading way off, you might end up replacing the crank pulley.

Good luck,

RafiPULSAR GTR

when i intitally set the timming should i have set the #1 piston to TDC then rotated it till it returned there and then put the belt on ? making that the compression stroke? if so then i did it wrong

[Not_a_sr]

well, my mechanical timming is good. darrell called me gave me some advice, its been suggested my exhaust cam is off a tooth could be but ive checked it numerous times after running the motor i really dread taking the belt off to redo it. we buttoned it all back up checked the timming it was off around 25-30deg advanced, well the problem may have somthing to do with me not running a AAC valve anymore and the TPS needing adjusting to compensate, we worked on that, got it to 15BTDC, but my CAS is fully clockwise. the motor was running pretty good, couple misses here and there, would rev out fine, went to take it out of the garage and it would buck like crazy.

check my ECU only code i get it 13. coolant temp sensor, my temp gauge wasnt working either so im assuming i need to change the temp sensors, the plugs, and then get that timming issue fixed permanately soon as we figure out what it is..

by the way ive completely done away with the FCID,AAC, and the Air regulator.

[biosehnsucht]

I assume you blocked off where the idle control stuff went.

That shouldn't change your timing really, however.

Like was said earlier could be a spun crank pully, I think mine is.. if I set it in the middle of adjustment my car is ok, moving it either way affects it, but timing light says I'm off by like 10 degrees, but if I set it to that it can barely run at all.

[Not_a_sr]

well, got off work, changed my plugs iruidums (sp?) in it. they were nasty, same plugs that were in the head when i got it. well im put new ones in and checked the timming, it got it to 15deg BTDC but its almost maxed out clocwise. also its jumping back and forth alot. i keep loosing flashes with the gun, but its not misfiring at all at that point, if i press on the plastic dot in the center of the CAS it will make the timming marks jump about. the car today was really stumbly and crappy, if i put my hand just over the MAF it will rev up smooth all the way to 5-6K its probably so many things all combining to the problem, im also getting code 13. im already frustrated and ready to scrap the project again lol.. might just hunt down a new harness and sensors and try to get rid of all my old crap.