timing issues?

[bozuzu]

i think my truck is having timing issues. here's what i got: after i kill the ignition, it turns over four or five times. and, it idles at 1,500 rpm! i installed a pacesetter header, retained the stock exhaust, both o2's, no leaks. i can't remember when it started, but it wasn't for at least two or three months after i installed the header. any ideas?thanks in advance!

[ultimatuc]

check codes.

[sliders]

if im not mistaking you have a condition know as dieseling.this is caused by timing being off and yes yur idle will be off if your timing is check it with a timing light and adjust if needed then let us know if that fixed it...good luck

[bozuzu]

oh great! so all i need is a timing light and the knowledge how to use one, and the knowledge how to adjust the timing. should be simple :chicken

[sliders]

naw just go to nearest parts store and buy a chiltons car manuel for yur vehicle.That dam nbook will tell you how to rebuild the whole car there great.then just look in the timing section if you dont know how to then just get yur buddies over for the day grab some beer and there ya go have a good day of working on yur car.The best way to learn is to follow that book on small projects like this one

[lovemysan2]

The chiltons and haynes manual claim the timing is non adjustable on the 96 and up pku. Liars

Buy the FSM

[bozuzu]

hah! chiltons. beans. i have the factory service manual, and there are six pages that list how to adjust the ignition timing in the EC section (electronic control). here's what it says, abridged.1. visually check air cleaner, hoses, egr, etc.2. start engine and warm it up, ensure that idle speed is under 1000 rpm.3. open engine hood and run at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes under no load.4. perfom the diagnostic test mode II.

now there are two options; of course i don't have a diagnostic computer, but i already will just assume that if i did, it would fail the test. if the test fails (NG), it says, 5. repair or replace components as necessary (this is why mechanics bills are so freaking high!)6. run again under no load.then it starts giving options for self diagnosis (no computer). it says,7. disconnect the tps and start engine8. rev engine 2-3 grand 2 or 3 times under no load and run engine at idle speed.9. Check ignition with a timing light:M/T: 10 degrees +/- 2 degrees BTDC

there it is, that crucial step. it's a freaking mechanic's manual; it assumes i know how to use a diagnostics computer, and use a timing light; i'm just a crackerjack college student mechanic wannabe. then it gets better:

10. if it's no good (if it's not the specified value) then, i quote, "adjust ignition timing to the specified value by turning distrubtor after loosening bolts which secure distributor."whoa. now we're dealing with moving timing stuff around while it's unbolted and aligning little marks. i'm a little reluctant, but we'll see. there's also an option that starts with disconnecting the tps, and running idle. then,2. rev 2-3 grand 2 to 3 times under no load.3. adjust base idle speed by turning idle speed adjusting screw.4. stop the engine and plug in tps.5. start engine and check idle speed again. if that fails, then they want you to start replacing sh*t, like o2's, iacv-aac valves, the entire ecm, etc (which is why mechanic's bills are so freaking high!). i have a feeling that this option is kind of a cheap fix just for the idle, and doesn't actually do anything to the timing. any takers?

sorry for the long post. thanks for the help guys (i can say guys, right? are there any women reading my posts that i'm offending? let me know.)

[sliders]

okay. you need to make friends with a mechanic around yur age they will probably help you out for free.But if you dont and try to self diagnos it dont freak out if yur check engine light comes on you can reset it by disconecting yur battery for about ten minutes then reconnecting it this will erase the codes.good luck

[lovemysan2]

Okay ignore Steps 4-6. When you get to step 9 and 10 put the timing where you want it. Then follow 10-2,3,4. After that start the engine back up and make sure it runs good. Kinda makes you wish it was written in plain english doesn't it. I agonized over the consult computer stuff for months before actually just trying to get around it.

If you check engine light is on go to autozone and have the code pulled and fix or repair whats bad.

[240slider]

If you have dieseling going on .it's can also be caused by carbon build up on the valves , pistons etc .check your spark plug condition .if black and black ash looking then you have carbon issue, also try running better gasoline the highest grade you can find this can also help with dieseling because the carbon build up creates hot spots which when you turn off the car its hot enough to ignite the A/F still left in the cylinders . the reason for better gas is cleaner combustion which will eventually eliminate some of that built up carbon I think this is your problem please post back your findings

[lovemysan2]

I thought that the increased octane reduced the overall volatility of the gas. Thus raising the tempature cieling of the detonation. or dieseling.

[bozuzu]

no, my engine only has 60k on it. i replaced the spark plugs at 54k or so, and they were squeeky clean. since then, i get on it pretty regularly enough so that any carbon gets blown out. also, my check engine light is NOT on, so there's no official, registered (with my ecu) problem. i have a funny intuition that it's my front o2 sensor taking a dump, but that's a 100$ part, which is about $90 more than i have or am willing to spend.high octane is only necessary for higher output engines, like turbos. in those engines, more octane is needed in the fuel for a more complete burn. the ka24e can only burn so much fuel per spark, high octane is just waisting money.

[bozuzu]

i think i've narrowed it down. timing is my worst subject in engine mechanics, but i think i understand that the timing itself cannot be changed unless manual distributor adjustments are made. so; the engine runs like it's misfiring on a cylinder. i think this is because of a vaccuum leak. the egr valve, below the factory aircover box, should be able to move freely (if you reach under it and push the plunger). if it doesn't, it could be stuck, thus creating the necessary vaccuum leak. mine doesn't move even a tiny bit. so i'm replacing the egr valve soon, and we'll see what happens.

[lovemysan2]

I picked my o2 sensor up at autozone for $60. They offered to sell me a universal for $17 had I been strapped I would have. I just installed the lower sensor($70) on my truck I'm hoping I'll get a consistent 27 mpg. So far so good.

[bozuzu]

or not; the freaking egr valve costs $115!:shocked that sh*t is not going to fly. looks like it's time to start taking stuff apart. . . over and out:jet:

[DGA]

Bozuzu it could be a vacumm leak, and it could be that you need new cap and rotor, or just that you need to have your timing adjusted. I am sorry I did not read all the posts so someone might have covered this. If you have access to someone with a timing light you could rule out some of these things.

[bozuzu]

i actually took a look at my header at the collector today and notice some residue buildup (evidence of an exhaust leak). i'm in finals right now (2 more to go!) but this weekend i can get under my truck and find out if it's bad at all.