I am getting ready to replace my timing chain and I am just wondering what you have to do to get the timing cover off (other than removing the bolts). For example, do I need to remove the distributor? And, is there an oil pump pickup bolted to the bottom of the cover? I can always consult a service manual, but I find it to be much easier to ask somebody who has done the job before. As always, I appreciate the input guys.
Phil
Timing cover removal?????
-
IveBeenBad
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2003 11:53 am
- Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX Fastback STOCK BIOTCH
-
IveBeenBad
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2003 11:53 am
- Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX Fastback STOCK BIOTCH
By all means, please do show me a pic that would be great. I figured it would be setup like that. I remember I changed a timing chain in a pulsar a long time ago and it was a similar setup, so I thought I knew about what I was going to be getting into. By the way, does the distributor stay in the cover during removal or does it need to come out ? Thanks,
Phil
Phil
The distributer has to be removed, along with the oil pan, oil pickup tube(bolted to bottom of lower timingcover/oil pump), crank pully, oil pump(built in to front lower cover),crank keyway and all front cover bolts. You may have to lightly pry on the upper and lower cover to remove them. There are indentions on the sides of them perfect for prying on. You probally already know this but remember to set the engine to TDC on the compression stroke on cylinder #1.
I just realized that you have a 90. I havent had much experience with the ka24e but it should be the same on the bottom end, dont quote me on that though.
I just realized that you have a 90. I havent had much experience with the ka24e but it should be the same on the bottom end, dont quote me on that though.
Well, I will be doing it at work and if I get stumped I will run next door to the nissan dealer. I would go there and ask how to do this, but I hate to bother them at work because they stay very busy and I know I hate it when somebody comes to ask me how to fix a cadillac while I am working if I dont know them.
-
deviousKA
- Posts: 1355
- Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2003 5:04 pm
- Car: 90 240sx NA /72 Datsun 510 NA /86 corolla GTS NA
- Contact:
You do not need to drop the pan. Set it all up on TDC, and remove all the parts/bolts necessary from the front cover (damper pulley, brackets, 4 bolts on the top that bolt to head, 2 bolts that come up from the pan, hidden one that is small and behind the oil pump, etc...). Remove the oil pump and shaft from the bottom, and distributor from the top (you should note your distributor drive position, if its at tdc the drive should be at 11:30oclock looking from the top with distributor removed). Then just pull the couple hoses off the back and side, and pry it off. Be sure to have the block completely drained of coolant if you can (you can remove the plug in the back side of the block, and/or remove radiator and water pump to drain it all out).
Pry the cover off, do what you need to do. To reinstall, you have to be very careful when squeezing the cover in between the pan and headgasket/head. I find that a good amount of silicone in the corners, and underneath the headgasket on the top helps it slide right in (silicone is used as the rest of the gasket material on the timing cover as well). There are (2) small orange silicone gasket rings that seal a couple oil pump passages. These should be replaced, but if you do reuse them make sure they are clean and put a thin film of silicone on them when you reinstall.
Pry the cover off, do what you need to do. To reinstall, you have to be very careful when squeezing the cover in between the pan and headgasket/head. I find that a good amount of silicone in the corners, and underneath the headgasket on the top helps it slide right in (silicone is used as the rest of the gasket material on the timing cover as well). There are (2) small orange silicone gasket rings that seal a couple oil pump passages. These should be replaced, but if you do reuse them make sure they are clean and put a thin film of silicone on them when you reinstall.
Well, I found out that the oil pan doesnt need to be dropped the hard way (dropped it). Now I have a new set of problems lol. So I now have a whole slew of questions. First, I put it on tdc and pulled the dist. cap and marked the location of the rotor button and I also marked the orientation of the body to the timing cover. But I noticed a few things here that have me a little confused. When I took off the valve cover I found the mark on the cam gear but it isnt lined up with the reference link on the chain. I was hoping that I could do this without rotating the motor any to avoid any trouble with distributor timing, but from what I see I will have to rotate the motor to get the timing marks lined up. Is this correct? Also, how much do I have to raise the motor to get the oil pan out because now I am faced with resealing the entire pan surface since I dropped it down. I was under the impression that there was a gasket for the pan but mine is siliconed on there so I definately need to get it as clean as possible before I reseal it. Well I think that covers my questions for now. Thanks for the info,
Phil
Phil
-
deviousKA
- Posts: 1355
- Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2003 5:04 pm
- Car: 90 240sx NA /72 Datsun 510 NA /86 corolla GTS NA
- Contact:
The two marked links of the chain probably wont end up in the proper location, this is ok. Just make sure your crank key and camshaft pin (not the marks on the gears) are in the 12 o clock position in relation to the block deck. When you install the new chain, line the colored links up with the marks on the timing gears. They will line up correctly if all is at 12oclock.
Ask on the turbo board how far you have to lift the engine to get the pan out, they will know, haha.
You could take the small chance of just leaving the silicone gasket that is on it now, and reinstalling. Oh and yes both the pan and timing cover are supposed to use silicone as gasket.
Ask on the turbo board how far you have to lift the engine to get the pan out, they will know, haha.
You could take the small chance of just leaving the silicone gasket that is on it now, and reinstalling. Oh and yes both the pan and timing cover are supposed to use silicone as gasket.
Alright, well I think I got it all under control for now lol. I am going to put up a post in the turbo board about the oil pan, but I will probably just clean it as good as I can and throw some new sealer on it. I have this stuff that one of our GM engine repair trainers swears by. He claims it will seal no matter what even if there is oil on the surface. So if it is too hard to pull the pan I'll just throw this sealer on it and hope that I dont have to drop it again. I have the car on a lift and all the tools I need, but I am limited on time because I am doing this at work and driving lot cars home until Im done so the boss man wants me to get it done asap. Thanks very much for the info it has helped a lot,
Phil
Phil