any one have good video on replacing timing chain for 2007 sentra 2.0l

No, but the FSM is pretty explicit step-by-step. See EM-39:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 7%2Fem.pdf

i have viewed the manual. it lacks a lot in detail. I have changed timing chain in rear wheel drive vehicles never front. There is not much room to manuever on front wheel drive. was hoping for video. Can't seem to find anything on you tube. Seems to me it would be easier pulling motor.

That's why you need to take the nose and torque mounts loose and jack/support the engine. It's pretty much impossible without tilting it.

Thanks for info. So basically i need to remove motor mounts and jack up engine. I have a floor jack and transmission jack. Can i jack engine from transmission side. not sure where to put jack. Also is there a way to download entire pdf for car it makes references to other sections of manual that i don't have.

I have a climber manual but it is less detailed that this pdf,

ferdie1 wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 30, 2022 3:41 pm

Thanks for info. So basically i need to remove motor mounts and jack up engine. I have a floor jack and transmission jack. Can i jack engine from transmission side. not sure where to put jack. Also is there a way to download entire pdf for car it makes references to other sections of manual that i don't have.

No, you want to jack it on a block of wood beneath the oil pan (IIRC the cover on the MR20 doesn't have bolts into the pan like a QR, so there's no need to "hang" the engine). That will let the front of the engine be tilted up and down. Jacking down is helpful for removing the crank pulley and tensioner, up is necessary for the timing cover and the rest of it. The tranny mount and rear mount should be left connected, the torque mount should come loose and the nose mount must be removed.

oh i thought i had to remove oil pan thanks
The nose mount. is that the one on top passenger side next to water reservoir.
I have changed all the mounts on this car not familiar with the term nose mount. There is one mount that was hidden under battery tray i believe. Sorry I am 68 years old thats why i love you tube videos so much. Everything on the pdf you have to look up in different sections of pdf. I use to love chilton manuals. They were great and the pictures were clear. That was years ago.
Thanks I really appreciate this. After this my tranny probably goes. 240k and still going,knock on wood
. However i change cvt oil every 40k. Maybe that helped

wait a second- You have a VSTAR 65o -so do I !!!!!

ferdie1 wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 01, 2022 7:15 am

The nose mount. is that the one on top passenger side next to water reservoir.

Yes. It's the "nose" of the engine, the end with the crank pulley.

ferdie1 wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 01, 2022 7:15 am

I have changed all the mounts on this car not familiar with the term nose mount. There is one mount that was hidden under battery tray i believe. Sorry I am 68 years old thats why i love you tube videos so much. Everything on the pdf you have to look up in different sections of pdf.

The one under the tray is the tranny mount, leave that one alone as well as the mount on the firewall. Along with the nose mount, it helps to take the torque mount loose (the one that juts out to the bottom of the tranny).

ferdie1 wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 01, 2022 7:15 am

After this my tranny probably goes. 240k and still going,knock on wood. However i change cvt oil every 40k. Maybe that helped

I'm sure it did. With almost no clutch material, CVT's can be perpetual motion machines with frequent fluid changes. We have one customer with an old Murano whose CVT is till going at 500K. Religious 30K changes, the car has been everyplace from Miami to Fairbanks without so much as a tranny hiccup.

PS - Unless you're replacing the oil pump chain along with the main chain, the oil pan can stay on.

i plan on changing chain and sprockets- 240k might as well even though probably not much wear on oil pump chain- also thinking of replacing oil pump- only thing car is getting some blow by- just wondering if new pump would make it worse

when i did first oil change at 90k- oil smelled like crap- even though they sauid 150k oil- always thought that was bull,- so next oil change i did at 30 -oil was clean as whistle - but i will do 60dollar oil change all day long over 4k transmission change-i also use the cheapr oil now- i believe its valvoline- I was using nissan oil i got online from ebay to cut costs. tranny is a little noisy pulls strong going forward -reverse theres a big clunk other than that no problems.- Even though they say you can tow or pull with that transmission- no way i would ever do that- Don't trust that motorcycle chain. When we bought car in 2007 I did not know what a cvt transmission was- not until superlube put the wrong oil in tranny- they put in dexron 11 i belive. They were going to put in another transmission but i opted for them to flush it several times and extend my warranty.

Thats why i started doing flushes myself

My customers have also complained about noise with the Valvoline CVT fluid. Try Eneos Eco or AMSoil, they both run much quieter than NS2 or Valvoline.

I will try Amsoil. Never heard of the other. Hey I have a question for you about Yamaha vstar if you have the time. Love bike but its so cold blood- takes a while to get it warmed up to ride it. i have rebuilt carbs and sychronized carbs. Anything else I could try. From what i heard this is nature of the beast. Owned a few bikes first that has been so cold blooded.

I didnt change my filter until i had 200k. According to nissan parts they told me there was no filter for cvt- he lied. Happened to be looking in parts breakdown of tranny- was expecting to change tranny soon due to noise. I saw filter in tranny . I changed oil and tranny filter. The oil was clean and so was the filter. Unreal. So i believe changing oil every 40k secret to long life with those trannies and babying them due to the chain drive. Not talking about acceleration. No towing or carrying heavy loads

I wouldn't worry about the paper filter, it's only there to catch fine break-in debris. With clean fluid they never clog. Think about it, there's near-zero clutch material in a CVT. You can't make ATF soup because the main ingredient is lacking. All you can do by not changing it is burn it, but there's still nothing in there to clog a filter.

I don't have the VStar anymore, it got stolen a bit after it rolled to 100K. The joke was on the sh_t heads who stole it, no doubt they thought they were stealing a bike with 16K and not 116K. I was waiting patiently for a piston to crumble so I'd have an excuse to rebuild it. No doubt the buyer of the stolen merchandise was peeved.


The reason it lasted 100K+ (unlike most air cooled motors) was great metallurgy and exceptional cooling. That's great climbing hills in the summer but it makes for a very cold-blooded beast in the cold months. Not much you can do about it besides cardboard across the highway bars to limit the airflow.

100k on moyorcycle awesome

Cool story about the bike. Thing is my bike is cold blooded summer and winter. Once it warms uo after 5-10 minutes good to go.

I looked in vstar forum no answers there.

Get the carbs checked out, that kind of behavior is usually a lean condition. All it takes is a tiny pinhole in one of the CV diaphragms, among other possibilities.

I plan on starting tommorrow. I will put drivers side wheel on ramp. Passenger side I will jack up and remove wheel and inner fender. I will find a place to jack engine because I plan on removing oil pan. I will remove the torque rod and insulator from nose motor mount. There is a torque rod from engine to transmission I will loosen. Theres also another mount on the side looks like big rubber band not sure what to do with it. i was trying to purchase timing chain cover gasket -looks like it doesnt have one. Will use RTV. Also need harmonic balancer puller for crankpulley. Oh and i must remember to get valve cover gasket. This would make a good you tube video- One day i will buy a camera. I think the pdf pretty must covers everything else. If i missed anything let me know.

Don't use regular RTV on the cover, it won't last. You need Gray Death, either Permatex Ultra Gray or the Nissan version.

thanks will do. I talked to Yamaha about my bike - They think my bike needs rejetting. The bike is loud like someone altered the muffler before i bought it. Wanting to sell bike. Just feel it may be harder to sell because its such a pain to start. Will worry about that later. Thanks for all the help gonna start on car here shortly.

been fun day. Basically taking my time. plus i am somewhat slower as I get older. Had trouble removing bolt from crank pulley. No matter how old i get i always learn something. This gave me a chance to try out my new Harbor freight 1000 ft lbs impact wrench. If you dont own one get one. Great for loosening those super tough bolts. I put that wrench on that 19mm bolt and worked it for 15 -20 minutes. Finally I felt trip to town to buy impact sockets were necessary. Put the socket on and it came off like butter. I am believer in impact sockets now. Always just used my regular sockets. What is the torque for crankshaft pulley bolt. I will probably just use torque wrench to tighten down. i dont have a special tool to hold pulley while i tighten with torque wrench. The camshaft gonna be fun thats tomorrow
If teeth on sprokets look ok then i will not change them. with 240k betting sprockets are worn\

See EM-47 for the pulley torque. When torque isn't in the exploded drawings it's because there's a special procedure for it. In this case, you tighten to 51 lbs/ft, back all the way to zero, then re-tighten to 22.

how do i hold pulley to keep motor from turning while i do this. it shows some kinda special tool i don't have. it also says turn another 60 degrees. I just so happen to have electronic torque wrench with degree setting. i guess i could put wrench on canshaft. looks like i will need help which i don't have. one other question instead of loosening bottom torque rod bolts i removed them- was that a mistake motor seems closer to frame now. i have a feeling gonna end up pulling motor before i am done.

One thing at a time. First i have to get timing cover off then chains. Thats where i left it yesterday. To me hardest thing will be getting cam sprockets off . how high can i crank motor up so i have clearance to do this- worried about all the wires and hoses attached.

You're not talking big torque, a leather belt wrapped around the pulley should do it. Or you can do it with the rocker cover off and jam a tooth at a cam sprocket. Or you can feed rope into one of the spark plug holes and jam the piston. There are lots of ways to skin that cat.

The motor can come up until it hits something as long as your rear and tranny mounts are in good shape. When the car starts to lift instead of the engine then you've reached the limit.

Once again thanks. I removed the lower torque rod, then i remmbered why i shouldnt have the motor shifts forward and rotates. Took a while to straighten that out. Put of doing this stuff not everything always goes right. Thanks for advice on tightening flywheel. I was gonna borrow neighbor, which i prefer not too. Was wondering where the oil pump is. Is it part of timing cover. I see no reference to it in -pdf. I have timing cover loose will remove it tomorrow. Was gonna change oil pump if not too expensive.