Timing Chain Rattle Woes...PLEASE Help

[rico05]

Well, getting desperate. The car sounds like a diesel below 2800-3000 RPM, but above sounds/runs normal. I read about how to pull the upper timing chain cover and to check on the tensioners, but I have no idea how to get the distrubitor out (previous car was a RX-7...yay for distrubitorless ignition) How do I put the car at TDC? Also, I tried using Gunk 5 Minute engine cleaner and running heavier oil to see if that fixed the problem. I am scared to run the car so that I don't cause more damage. I would REALLY appreciate it if someone would please help me out. I am very desperate right now as it will be about 3-4 months before I can get a CA in my car:(:(:(:(:(:(:(

EDIT: I also read that BG MOA can help, but my frickin can is taking forever shipping here. It won't be here till Monday 2/16:(

[rico05]

Also, if the guides are worn, can the tensioner be easily replaced, or will it be a MAJOR surgery?

[rico05]

Soooo....no help? Sorry if I seem kind of impatient. I am just really nervous.

[Meantime]

1) Take the distributor cap and CAS plug off; then disconnect the two bolts and the assembly comes right out. Make sure you have the engine set at TDC and mark the orientation of the distributor to the timing case before you remove the distributor!

2) To set at TDC: locate the TDC pointer mark near the crankshaft pulley (should be the 2nd from left IIRC). Turn the crank pulley until the smaller notch on the pulley is at the TDC marker. Take the sparkplugs out to make turning the crank easier, also you can feel with a screwdriver to see if no.1 is at the top of the cylinder through the sparkplug hole. You want piston no.1 TDC on the compression stroke (the valves should be closed on cyl.1 and the distributor rotor should be pointing towards the no.1 sparkplug wire).

3) You can replace the upper chain tensioner without too much effort, but the lower tensioner is a headache.

[rico05]

IS it actually the tensioner? I have done some reading on old posts, and since the clacking happens below 3k RPM, it sounds more like the guides. Any comments?

[rico05]

Also, when removing the distrubutor, does the engine have to be at TDC? According to Haynes, it can be pulled at any time, I just have to remove and mark the location of everything while doing it.

[rico05]

43 views...1 reply. Come on guys, I really need some help. And as I understand, this is a simple thing. Just a little more advice would be nice. I have a history of taking small repairs/mods screwing them up because of bad advice/directions, and ends up costing me bookoo moola.

[Meantime]

Yes, you can pull the distributor out any time you so desire - but if you want your car to run properly again without a Hurculean effort and lots of foul language, make sure the engine's at TDC before you do. Reason is, chances are you will turn the crank pulley or otherwise move the cam gears out of position while you're changing the tensioner, and if you don't have it at TDC before you start, you will have no clue what the base timing is and it will be a big, time-consuming mess to get it straight again.Trust me on this one.

I had a slight *click click click* at about 700 rpms, I took out both of the top guides and replaced the upper tensioner, now there is no noise at all.

[leper421]

IS it actually the tensioner? I have done some reading on old posts, and since the clacking happens below 3k RPM, it sounds more like the guides. Any comments?

When the tensioner goes bad the chain gets loose causing it to hit the guides, and it will hit into and eat away at the front front cover, exposing a coolant channel. Do the job right and replace both chains, all the guides, tensioners and spockets.

[240slider]

You can buy a whole complete timing kit chain,tensioner,2 guides (tension side and loose side) cam gear and crank gear.from http://www.napaonline.com but remember while your there replace the timing cover gasket ..

[Touchdown038]

That is for SOHC, his DOHC one will only be a little bit more $$ though.

And the timing cover doesn't have a gasket, just RTV.

EDIT: Post #999.... guess what's coming up next!

[leper421]

expressautoparts.com sells the whole kit for $200. Thats what I used when I did my chain.

[rico05]

Well damn. Looks like my car is going to be off the road for a few months then. I really see no point in spending several hundred dollars to fix an engine I am going to throw away in a few months and replace with a CA...I will pull everything and see what is broken or whatever. How come I hear so much about "jsut remove the guides"? Why do I ahve to replace a bunch of non wear parts when it is a wear (and not necessiary) part that is making noise?

[Touchdown038]

If you're gonna sell the engine once you put in a CA, you might wanna do this for preventative measures to give buyers some more confidence in your motor.

And the guides are indeed a wear part, as you should have been able to tell just from looking at them.

[rico05]

I thought the guides were not necessary parts. BTW, the rattle comes from the top near the valve cover, if this helps any...I was under the impression that the top guides are not necessary...

Also, I plan on literally throwing the engine away. I don't have space for it once it is gone, so unless someone local wants to come pick it up, I am taking it to the junk yard and seeing if I can get rid of it there. It has over 150k miles so I dobut anyone would want to buy it anyway...

[leper421]

The guides for the lower chain are necessary. Nissan recommends (technical service bulletin 98-092) you throw away the top and slack-side guide for the upper chain.

[rico05]

That is what I thought. I won't be able to get in there till Sunday afternoon:( Mother Nature is a ****** and I would soooooo get killed for working on my car on VDay;)

[rico05]

One last thing before I actually do the surgery. Started up the car for the first time in a few days, and no click, but it was only run for about 3 minutes. Previously, it would not click when cold, but after hot would go nuts. Also, all of this happened almost a week after I changed the oil. It was the first oil change I did on this car since I bought it and I used 10W-30. I used 10W-40 the other day, and the click lessened, but is still there when hot.

Also, I just drove the car and the clack would only happen at off acceleration. So does this meant that it is more the guides and the tensioner is ok? How does the tensioner work?