Timing chain problem

[BaliLover]

I had a timing chain rattle in my 92 240, and I decided to do the timing chain and tensioners just to be safe.

I set the motor at #1 TDC, and went to work.

The cams and crank were never turned independantly of each other, but the problem I have is that the idler gear on the engine, and the one that came in my kit do not have the little dots on them that they should.

I installed the lower chain without turning the crank, but without a dot on the idler, theres nothing to line it up with.

I installed the upper chain, lining the cam gears up with the stock cams dowel pins, putting the silver links over the dots on the cam gears. the front lobes are facing away from each other towards the outside of the head, motor is still at TDC.

On the distributor shaft, there is a dot and a notch. It appears that when the dot is lined up with the notch, the distributor is at #1. The problem is when I go to insert the distributor, the gear is forced to turn or the distributor will not insert into the engine. I set the distributor to #1 the best that I could visually, but the dot isn't perfectly aligned with the notch.

The car won't start, and even turning the distibutor without the mounting bolts in doesn't seem to help.

Is it possible to be one tooth off and still have the silver links mate up perfect on the cam gear, and have the 1st lobes facing away from each other, and still be at TDC?

How can I know exactly where to line up the upper chain with the idler since there are no marks on the idler for reference?

[InsanityInc]

Put the car at half throttle or so and see if you can start it. Also, you can check the timing with a light while you crank the engine, it doesn't have to be running.

[BaliLover]

I got it running today, but if I have timing set to 20 BTDC, it idles smooth, but bogs off the line. If I advance the timing to around 30BTDC it seems to run fine.

It idles at 600 so I need to know how to adjust the idle but I couldn't find an idle adjustment screw anywhere.

When I was doing the timing chain I also removed the EGR, PAIR, Charcoal canister, ETC. The only things left are the swirl control valve/solnoid and the Idle control stuff.

Could this be why I'm bogging out at normal timing? THe EGR allows some exhaust to enter the manifold and be reburned. If this exhaust isn't present, doesn't that mean that there is less air to be burned and more fuel, causing it to run rich?