Timing chain links wont line up, turned 20 + times

[Fibercus]

I am trying to set the CAS. My engine would run before but the timing was way off, and it could not be set right. I looked and the CAS was a notch or two off. On a side note, I am replacing my valve cover gasket because there was oil in the spark plug well. I took off cover and I couldnt believe it, THERE Where NO spark plug well gaskets !

Is it possible this motor has had some internal work?

The links on the chain are not even close enough to both set on the punch marks, they are two far apart ( 2 out of the three). I can get either the right one or the left one. Ive turned it so many times I have seen the pattern so I know Ive tried every possible combination...... I am trying to set the CAS. My engine would run before but the timing was way off, and it could not be set right. I looked and the CAS was a notch or two off.

I was told during shipment they might have broke CAS and just slap another one in there with out lining it up. Makes me wonder, cause this s14 sr pulls like a mofo under 4500RPMS, and I thought stock boost doesnt spool until higher RPMS

[SpeedRacer1]

I am a little confused, do you think the timing chain itself is off? If you are going by the different colored links on the timing chain then stop doing that, chances are they are off by now. The only true way to redo the timing chain is to take apart pretty much the entire engine. Then figure out how many individual silver rollers there are between the mating marks. As you can there are 20 rollers see between the two cam sprockets. There are 56 rollers between the intake sprocket mark and the crank sprocket mark; And there are 48 rollers between the crank sprocket mark and the exhaust sprocket mark.

As for the CAS, you do know that you can rotate the CAS while the engine is running by just loosening the two 12mm bolts and turning the CAS. If you have a timing light then just hook that up and rotate until you are at 15° + or - 2° BTDC. That should be the second mark from the far left.

[Fibercus]

As for the CAS, you do know that you can rotate the CAS while the engine is running by just loosening the two 12mm bolts and turning the CAS. If you have a timing light then just hook that up and rotate until you are at 15° + or - 2° BTDC. That should be the second mark from the far left. [/QUOTE]

I figured the CAS was off since I cant get anywhere near those setting at all with my light. it wont even idle right / consistantly, and ive got my vacuum / wiring all correct

[SpeedRacer1]

Are you using the light properly? Have you gone by the FSM page 174?

[Fibercus]

Are you using the light properly? Have you gone by the FSM page 174?

Yes, but it was no where near the mark, and at the lowest / highest CAS setting, it could not reach it.

CAS was in incorrectly, looks like they slapped it in there without setting it

but yet, I tap into the loop for my signal correct? I will double check, thanks for page # Im going to try it out once i get valve cover back on i will upate

[SWIFT_DRIFT]

You tap into your #1 plug signal.

Is your motor as TDC when you are putting the CAS in? Are you even aligning the CAS right before you slap it in?

I would recommend setting the motor to the correct TDC and checking the sprocket marks using the pic SpeedRacer linked. If the cams/sprockets aren't even correctly timed/aligned then you are wasting your time trying to align the CAS.

Also so there is no confusion page #174 is reffering to the Australian s14 w/sr20det FSM.

[Fibercus]

You tap into your #1 plug signal.

Is your motor as TDC when you are putting the CAS in? Are you even aligning the CAS right before you slap it in?

Yes. Im following FSM, not just slapping it in.

I would recommend setting the motor to the correct TDC and checking the sprocket marks using the pic SpeedRacer linked. If the cams/sprockets aren't even correctly timed/aligned then you are wasting your time trying to align the CAS.

Piston #1 TDC, I have the two punch marks on the sprockets in that same position as in the link, but only one shinny link is on the right punch mark

Also so there is no confusion page #174 is reffering to the Australian s14 w/sr20det FSM.

Thats what Im using

[SWIFT_DRIFT]

Piston #1 TDC, I have the two punch marks on the sprockets in that same position as in the link, but only one shinny link is on the right punch mark

Speedracer already told you, and I am telling you again, the shiny links on the chain make absolutely no difference. As long as the chain is spaced correctly everything is a-ok. There needs to be 20 rollers between the sprocket dimples:

[DAEDALUS]

It also matters how many links there are between the crank sprocket mark and the driver-side cam sprocket mark. Intake side I think, so 56 links between the 2 marks according to SpeedRacer1 I think. Not possible to count unless all 3 sprockets are visible. Careful with turning the camshafts! You can bend a couple valves if any of your cylinders are high enough.

[Fibercus]

as of right now it idles & startups fine...

I was confused, chain is fine... I didnt know that Advance timing guns give an error timing light, so I went out and got myslef a basic one. I was able to set the timing exact as FSM.

I took the vacuum hose going to my BOV off and plugged it, and the engine ran much more stable...

just finish doing compression test and the results were:

1: 140,140

2: 142,140

3: 140,140

4: 145,143

Im using a $25 Actron tester, not sure how accurate it was, some tests the gauge would drop like 1-2 degress, by the time I ran out to check it. these were all dry test after I warmed the engine to almmost halfway on temp gauge

[SWIFT_DRIFT]

You plugged the bov....ok did you hook up the stock recirc in it's place then?

[SpeedRacer1]

BOV leaking at idle? Or is way too loose, thus it would release any built up boost? Do you feel bogging during spirited acceleration? How does the boost gauge look to you? Im not even going to ask if you removed the TPS and disconnected the proper bypass wire to use the timing light because the fact is that its firing so you couldnt be that far off. Any misfires at all?

[Fibercus]

BOV leaking at idle? Or is way too loose, thus it would release any built up boost? Do you feel bogging during spirited acceleration? How does the boost gauge look to you? Im not even going to ask if you removed the TPS and disconnected the proper bypass wire to use the timing light because the fact is that its firing so you couldnt be that far off. Any misfires at all?

Not sure, I just know when i plugged the vacuum up, 90% of the roughness went away and I was able to get it to steady out and set timing... Stock recirc isnt in yet, because I dont have the plumb that goes over the valve cover, i have the rest... is it possible to have the stock oopen to atmosphere?

Maybe im using the wrong vacuum line or th BOV, becuase when I hooked up the Stock one, at idle it was gushing out air.....

"Im not even going to ask if you removed the TPS and disconnected the proper bypass wire" ?????????? Im following FSM, no mention of "bypass wire"

My old NGK were fouled bigtime, have to get new ones..

[SWIFT_DRIFT]

Not sure, I just know when i plugged the vacuum up, 90% of the roughness went away and I was able to get it to steady out and set timing... Stock recirc isnt in yet, because I dont have the plumb that goes over the valve cover, i have the rest... is it possible to have the stock oopen to atmosphere?

Plumbing that goes OVER the valve cover huh? Do you have an RB?

[Fibercus]

Quote »Plumbing that goes OVER the valve cover huh? Do you have an RB? [/quote]

You have never seen the plastic thing that goes across cover over to the filter side on an s14 sr20?

Stock recirc passes over valve cover through a tube...

Iv figured things out, i made it morer complicated than it really was. Everything is straight / good now,, just need to tuned my BOV and check for leaks,, everything else good..

Thanks everyone for your input, I know I dont make sense sometimes, but thats what happens when you rush and over think... I took a break, and figured everything out.

Rushing = Notthinkning straight... patience is key hehe

[SWIFT_DRIFT]

I'm glad you got it solved Fiber, I didn't mean my previous comment harsh. I know the tube you are talking about and in my train of though I see that as in front of the valve cover lol :P