Timing Belt

[JaeTee]

Hi, I'm having a realllyyy hard time putting on the new timing belt for my 120k service...it won't go far enough to wrap around the tensioner And of course tugging on it for so long only causes the passenger exhaust cam to rotate to the left...help/hints pleasseee :'(

[mrmoose]

You have to take off the tensioner and compress it and then re-install. You will never get it on there otherwise, and once it's compresses use the little adjustment bolt to hold it in place DO NOT use the bolt to compress the tensioner!

[JaeTee]

Sorry for the noob question but just to make sure I do it right..how do I compress the tensioner? It doesn't say that in either of the write ups I'm following...

[NolimitZ32]

with a vise or a big c-clamp

[Ziggy1621]

And go very slow. Crank, then wait, then crank a little more, then wait, then put your bolt in to hold it. If you got the 120k kit, it should have had a new one with the bolt in it?

[schwar74]

One of the other bolts will fit in the threaded hole in the tensioner. It might be one that is for the fan clutch? I can't remember specifically. I was able to compress the tensioner piston using the bolt with the tensioner in place. You just have to do it slowly. Like 1/8-1/4 turn, then wait several seconds. It was still a little snug. Make sure you clamp the belt onto the cam sprockets so they won't jump off. We used some small c-clamps with light pressure to hold them in place. As long as the marks on the belt and the sprockets line up, they can rotate a little and you won't have a problem.

I followed the writeup on ttzd.com, go to the tech page, then down to the timing belt replacment link.

Scott

Scott

[IonZ32]

I found the easiest way is to put the stopper in exactly like its says in the manual, but remove the upper idler pulley. Then set the belt on all the cams, tensioner, etc. Then use the upper idler pulley as the last thing you put on. Its much easier than squeezing the belt over the cam. When installing that pulley, just use slow force down on the belt until it reaches the stud hole.

I also found it made things easier by clamping the intake cam with the belt on it. Use a rubber clamp, not a wood C clamp or you could potentially damage the belt! Good luck with it!

[JaeTee]

Thanks for the help guys I was finally able to get it on...One question though...when you rotate the engine (mainly to make sure that the tension in the tensioner/belt stays consistent with the ~4mm measurement) When you rotate it all the way back to where the marks on the belt come near their designated areas, are the marks on the timing belt supposed to stay consistent with the gears EVERY time they pass over them? Or are there some instances where they won't align with them every time?

[NolimitZ32]

The marks will need something like 36,594 revolutions to line up with the marks on the gears again. This number is by no means real but its just to give you and idea. As long as the marks on the gears (cam &crank) always endup in line with the marks on the engine than you are good to go.

[JaeTee]

So when I originally took off all the parts and put the engine at TDC it was pretty much a coincidence that all the marks on the belt lined up with the gears? Or like, is that just how Nissan originally configured it? Btw..I could tell that the previous owners didn't do the 60k maintenance...so yeah...idk if that helps/reveals anything...lol

[ObjectsInMirror]

I do not recommend re-using the tensioner ESPECIALLY if the timing belt has not been done. The one's that 90-93's had on them from the factory are known for leaking and the only part available for them now is an updated part from the one that came on these cars from the factory. I have done MANY Z32 timing belt (60k and 120K) jobs and can honestly say that I have NEVER re-used a tensioner. $120 for a tensioner is cheaper then an engine. The marks will only line up once every 400 or so revolutions. The marks are there to aid in installing the belt. The dotted line is for the passenger side exhaust cam. After you rotate the engine the tensioner should be 4mm from bottomed out. If it isn't loosen the bolts and turn the tensioner to adjust it and re-tighten it and try it again. This is important to keep the tensioner from bottoming out and stretching/snapping the belt at high RPM.

Hope this helps.

[JaeTee]

I do not recommend re-using the tensioner ESPECIALLY if the timing belt has not been done. The one's that 90-93's had on them from the factory are known for leaking and the only part available for them now is an updated part from the one that came on these cars from the factory. I have done MANY Z32 timing belt (60k and 120K) jobs and can honestly say that I have NEVER re-used a tensioner. $120 for a tensioner is cheaper then an engine. The marks will only line up once every 400 or so revolutions. The marks are there to aid in installing the belt. The dotted line is for the passenger side exhaust cam. After you rotate the engine the tensioner should be 4mm from bottomed out. If it isn't loosen the bolts and turn the tensioner to adjust it and re-tighten it and try it again. This is important to keep the tensioner from bottoming out and stretching/snapping the belt at high RPM.

Hope this helps.

I appreciate it man. I'm not reusing the tensioner. I bought the 120k kit from z1 so I have all the necessary parts to put it together... thank you though