Timing Belt Spun, Need some expertise

[Mike2me]

My son and I just completed our first (and last) project Z32 with 136K miles that I picked up in Jan from my neighbor. It had not been moved or started in 5 years. We replaced all the necessary upper half componets, timing belt, cam seals crank seals, lifters and clutch assembly and had it on the road last weekend running great for some 50 miles on three or four test drives.The next day it died 100 yards from the garage, Code 34 (detonation Sensor) and I was not sure of what that monitored. The engine would crank but something about the engine rotation sounded different. Later after trying again to start it and wondering why it sounded different I heard the clunk. I was pretty confident what that meant and now the different sound when it was cranking made sense; the timing belt probably spun and our valves were out of sequence so the engine was not having to overcome the compession in at least some of the cylinders.
We just finished gaining access and taking off the timing covers and sure enough the belt was very loose on the right side of the block due to a mistake in our failure to set the autotensioner correctly.
I'm not sure how far any of the cams spund but because we heard components come into contact at the last engine crank I decided we'd move the crank backwards to it's reference point and we did verifiy that the #1 cyl did travel to the top of its stoke. The right side intake and exhause cams were somewhat close to their marks (but the timing belt white lines were not) so we went ahead and move the right side cams an inch or more to line them up on their marks. We pressurized the #1 cyl and found no leaks so we belive we're set on TDC on the #1 cylinder but we're not positive, the crank could be 180 degrees out. While rotating the crank thru by hand it stops (somethings hitting internally) exactly 2 inches into the crank travel.
So not knowing which cams actaully spun and how far they moved out of sequence, I'm wondering if someone can assist us and guide us through with how to find our timing. The intake plentum and valve covers are still on, and although we can certainly take them off, but I'm only confident enough that I'll be able to verify that the right side intake cam (valves) and exhaust cam are alligned to TDC. I'll have no clue how to dertermine if the crank is correct or 180 degrees out. Any Help?

[xclusivez32]

doesnt sound good, i had a problem like this when i first got my z. easiest way to know if #1 is tdc is to rotate the crank to the timing mark and take the #1 spark plug out and with a long screw driver see if the piston is at the top. If the car was running at more then an idle when the timing belt slipped it probably is not just one set of valves, mine was at 2grand and all but 2 vavles were bent. but once you get it to tdc compression check it and see which ones are not in spec. hope it works out for you, better then it did for me

[evildky]

you shouldn't align the gears with the marks othern than a general alignmeng before placing the belt

take the timing covers off, rotate the engine to tdc (watch the mark on the crank gear it will line up with the mark on the oil pump housing, and the cam gear amrks should be close to their marks as well (if the cam gears are out then you are on tdc exhaust stroke and need to turn the crank 360)) once you have the engine in approximate position, take the timing belt off (people will warn you about letting the cam gears rotate but the rotation actually closes valves so no harm can be done from this), now align the marks on the belt with the marks on the gears, the marks on the oil pump housing and the timing backing plates are just approximate and the dots on the belt and precise! place the belt on it's marks with the gears then put the tensioner back on, after setting the tensioner rotate the engine a couple of turns then reset the tesnioner, then test for compression and see if you lucked out