If the CAS is not working the car wont run period. i Took my drivers side TB cover off to check something and in my rush to get it back together I didnt fully clip the connector and on my way back from work my car died and would not restart. I pressed the connector and it popped and car started right back up.
When car is really hot (or if sensor isnt reading right) or if you switch the O2 plug with the KS plug the car will be sluggish under 2500rpm because the car is put into a safety map.
Before anything else I would try to pull codes off the ECU and see what it is barking at you to what is wrong.
You might see either a code 11, 13 or 34 (Crank Angle, Coolant Temp or Knock Sensor).
Check this thread out on how to check codes if you don't know anyone who has a OBDI cable and program.
zerothread/249406
Only other thing I can think of is that a cam could be off by 1 or more teeth and it would not run right. When I did my timing belt I spun the motor over until everything was top dead center.
The new belt has the markings to make sure all the cams are aligned properly with the crank. Don't know how good of a mechanic the guy is, but if he messed this up then it will not run right.
What all did you have replaced with the timing belt?
When I changed mine I did a 120k maintenance and replaced TB, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, vtc springs, cam gear seals, lower coolant pipe hoses, and idler pulleys. If he replaced the cam gear seals, it requires you to remove the cam gears. If he did this and didn't secure the cam gears to the belt properly when tightening the bolt back down to spec, he could have slipped a tooth on the belt. I did this and had to carefully shift cam back 1 tooth.