timing belt and water pump install (how to)

[NeedCAforS13]

Well with all the troubles I've been having with my timing belt and water pump over the past few days, I figured I'd take a break from the heat and humidity to sit down and write up how to change a timing belt and water pump with the engine in the car

Parts and stuff needed:water pump (1985 CA18ET 200sx one is recommended)water pump paper gasket (usually comes with pump, but sometimes not)blue RTV siliconetiming belttiming belt tensioner (good to replace this, but not truely neccessary)antifreeze (or water wetter which is what I use)p/s, a/c, and alternator belts (now's a good time to replace them since you have to remove them)box wrenches, sockets, nothing weird.FSM (very usefull in setting timing)Impact wrench is nice for the crank bolt, but not needed.

Start by removing your cold intercooler pipe and upper radiator hose. If you're using a radiator shroud you can pull it off now too, and then remove either your electric fans or your fan clutch. Next I used my impact wrench to pull the crank bolt off and removed the crank pulley. I then marked my crank angle sensor so I knew where it was, and removed it. Next I removed my upper and lower timing belt covers. You should now see the water pump and timing belt clearly. I then aligned the two timing belt marks on the cam gears, to the marks on the back timing belt cover. This puts the crank in the right place and the cams in the right place for you to reinstall the belt later.

Using a 13mm socket, loosen the upper timing belt tensioner (top left one) and use a hex wrench to turn it. This should leave slack in the belt and allow you to remove it. Then just remove the tensioners and you can get to the bolts on the water pump (12mm) and swing the alternator and its bracket clear of the water pump. I used a rubber mallet and tapped on the water pump to dislodge it from the block. Clean the block mating surface very well with a razor and even some sand paper to get it prepped for the new gasket and pump.

Put the RTV silicone gasket on both surfaces (pump and block) and put the paper gasket between the two. Reattach the bolts making sure to put the alternator brackets back on. Now comes the fun part. Reinstalling the timing belt!

It helps to have two people to do this, but I did it no less than 3 times last night by myself, so it can be done alone. Follow the FSM procedure and match the white lines on the belt, to the three marks (1 on each cam gear, and one on the crank). When you get the belt where you think it's lined up, count the number of teeth between each mark. From the intake cam mark to the exhaust cam mark there should be 39 teeth/cogs. From the exhast cam mark there should be 48 teeth/cogs to the crank mark. If the marks add up correctly, you put it on right! Congratulations, it often takes me afew times to get it right If its not on right, pull the belt and try again, its easier than trying to shift the belt a cog or two.

Once you get the belt on correctly, its time to set the tension. Turn the motor over afew times with a breaker bar to allow the belt to center itself. Next, turn the tensioner with the hex wrench left or right until you feel the tension increasing. The correct tension is when you can press down with your thumb on the center section of the belt (between the cam gears) and the belt deflects about 1/8 inch. Don't do it too tight, or you might shread a belt. Don't ask how I found that out last night

Then go ahead and reinstall the timing belt covers, the crank pulley, and anything else you removed. Its time consuming, but its truely just the opposite of removal. I've got it down to about 3 hours for the entire process now! haha, oh well. My new water pump (#3) should be here tomorrow, and all will be good. Its a Nissan OEM rwd water pump from a 200sx, so I hope it doesn't shread itself like the last two. I also made a custom upper timing belt cover But I'll take pictures of that and make a new thread once its all back together.

Hope this helps,Sean

[float_6969]

Thanks for the write up Sean. Sorry to hear about the run of bad luck, but if it's any condolance, I've got about 10K miles on my CA18ET waterpump with out a bit of trouble. Also, IMHO, the RWD CA18ET has a better impeller design than the FWD CA18DET. I work for a pool store and mess with Impellers all the time, and the one I've got is much beefier, should move much more water, and doesn't weigh as much. The CA18DE pump I first got had a cast impeller, whereas the CA18ET impeller was a stamped steel unit. Plus you can use your CA18DET pully!

[NeedCAforS13]

I've got about 10K miles on my CA18ET waterpump with out a bit of trouble.

clutch fan or no? I was running the CA18DE pulsar pump for 15k or so without problems with electric fans and a DE pulley, but upon using a clutch fan it promptly killed itself within 30 seconds or so.

Sean

[sdtouge]

crank pulley is 27mm, and a impact gun and gear puller do wonders to get that biacth off

[ca18detdrift]

Thanks for the write up! I plan on doing this to my engine soon. =)

[jt15833]

so most of you guys with no clutch fans are running rwd CA18ET water pump and your original RWD CA18DET pulley?