Timing and hesitation issues

[moso]

So to start i built this motor recently with a few minor mods and a whole crap ton of new parts
KA24DE stock bore
9-1 compression weisco pistons
dual exhaust cam swap
CAI
3"exhaust (catless)
deleted emiss/egr/pair/swirl controll
walbro 255
megan fpr

now for the issue. I installed the dizzy as per the fsm and it sits in just like its supposed to. I disconnected the tps and set my timing and its at about 15-20btdc however the dizzy is twisted all the way to the right, its the only way i can get it to run. it runs well enough to be a daily but it hesitates when you stomp on it. at arround 3000rpm the butt dyno reads a lack of hp and then it picks back up arround 3500rpm. I also get the smell of unburnt gas on hard decel (altho it could be unrelated) additionally when you have a timing light on it, if you blip the throttle the timing marks will run up the pully and clean out of sight. im unsure what to do from here as i have tried to restab the dizzy with no luck. i have another ecu with a calum board on it from emance which i tried with similar results, on the emance ecu the timing marks wont move under accel ( this too could be unrelated ). thats what i know, any help is appreciated.

[moso]

Update: so today i removed and reinstalled the dizzy one more time and its fairly apparent now that its mechanically out of time. when i install the dizzy the marks on the housing shaft and gear line up, and the rotor will point toward the front of the car, but it will be completely twisted right almost to the max of its adjustment. if i restab the dizzy a tooth in either direction the dizzy wont line up with the bolt holes. now i have removed the front cover and checked all my timing marks and they are correct. so why wont this dizzy go in with room for adjustment?? is it possible that my timing components are marked wrong?

[Razi]

You could try stabbing it back again.
I remember when I put my head back together and was putting my distributor back on, it took me a couple of tries to get it just right, instead of it being all the way up or down.

I don't think your engine could be mechanically out of time though, unless someone tinkered with it, I've never heard of a case where the chain jumped and changed the timing on these engines.

[moso]

I am going to remove the upper cover again on friday and check my timing marks again, its almost as if the lower chain is of a tooth. i rebult the motor about a year ago and the car got wrecked about a month later so its sit in storage until about a month ago. it had this problem from day one so i checked the timing marks when i had the motor out to put it in the new shell. its strange tho, all the marks line up and i can get the timing set to 15btdc but the dizzy looks like this.

"Hi, I'm mikes distributor, and I'm fully retarded!"

the car runs every day. it idles steady at 750 with a slight lope (wub wub wub wub wub) it will rev fast and hard with only a slight hesitation. if you punch it off the line it carries well to 3k and then it feels like it looses power up to 3500 or 4k where it picks back up enough to put you back in the seat and will run all the way to redline. if you shift high and get it into gear over 3500 it pulls great but if you dip below it gives you just enough trouble to know something aint right. im totally stumped and now im double checking myself. if anyone has a photo of a stock timing gear and chain set with good enough resolution that i can compare the marks and verify that mine are indeed correct it would be very helpful.

[S13xCrazy]

Your definately off on your timing chains. Take everything apart and make sure it all lines up propely. I see you did the exhaust came swap, so double check and make sure you turned it the right amount of teeth.

It's hard for anyone to help out online with this sort of a problem because it's generaly just a small error (one tooth off), but if you need a guide or anything let me know. I have a book around somewhere that has pictures of all the timing links and where they hsould line up(top and bottom).

Just pull off the valvecover and turn it to TDC and check to see where your at cam lobe wise, and on the dizzy. You can also pull out the #1 plug to verify your bottom chain did not move a link and your timing marks on the balancer are not lying to you!

[S13xCrazy]

If you can send me a picture of yours once you get it apart I can help you out, my video may be high-res enough to see the marks (how to remove head from KA24DE) on my computer, but probably not on youtube.

[moso]

ok so i have removed the upper cover twice now to check my timing chain marks and they are dead on. the lower timing chain marked link lines up perfect with the dimple on the upper sprocket and the link is split on the lower pin by the upper chain. the upper chain also lines up with the cam gear marks and the cam lobes point outward just as they should. i used this photo to reference the timing components after topping out the number one cyl with an extension in the spark plug hole to ensure it was at tdc.

this is not a photo of my motor, nor is it my photo/photoshoping. it does however represent the configuration of my timing components without taking off my upper cover again (also mine is a hell of a lot cleaner )

i spoke to a very trusted mechanic and he brought it to my attention that if the crank angle sensor is inside the dizzy than it really doesn't matter which way you install it so long as you can lock it down with the timing set correctly (like an old chevy or ford, really it makes sense if you think of the mechanics of it)

i have however found the source of the majority of the gas smell, the secondary tube on the gas filler neck was broken.

moving on.....


My oil smells like gasoline!!
My compression is 170+ across the board, its definitely not my internals. I'm over fueling!
I have hooked up my consult cable and have the following observations/questions, any insight is appreciated.

at idle the ecu says my timing is at 14, under hard acceleration it will go as high as 44deg
with the ecu in base idle mode i cant seem to get the idle set correctly, the adjuster screw is extremely touchy. as much as 175rpm per quarter turn. (could my overfueling and hesitation be caused by a bad iacv?)
my iacv seems to be open as much as 30% while driving
my tps reads .5v at the ecu. 2ohm closed 9ohm open
at 6000rpm WOT my maf only reads 2.9 to 3v at idle .9 to 1v

[moso]

would a bad injector cause my overfueling and hesitation?
can an injector only stick open at high rpm and function normally at low rpm?
i have ohm checked my injectors, how would i check for a sticking injector?

[jrad240sx]

does it hesitate and seem like its being held back and not reving smoothly like its taking alot to get rpm up? if so then injectors are dumping to much fuel in and what kind of other problems do you have? first one is just where if you dont have it right on top dead center but the second is....just line up marks on timing chain with matting marks. if you have two exhaust cams then the marks wont line up cause the dowel pin is in different spots for the intake and exhaust cam but do get rid of chain guides they dont do or help on anything.

[moso]

in the end the problems were bad injectors coupled with a faulty fuel gauge causing me to set the fuel pressure too low.

[jrad240sx]

thats no fun lol anything new?