I am about done my timed maintenance for my 1997 QX4 and some things worth noting that may help others:
Timing is crucial especially fluid, oil changes.
The rear differential does most of the work and the hypoid oil 80/90 LSD, will show this as compared to the front differential. You may get metal particles coming out with the old oil, no worry, but it is good to get them out.
Similar results will happen with the 2 speed transfer case. If the oil is left in there too long it will blacken. If your oil is dark cut your time in 1/2, you may save extra wear.
Distributor- Those with a single coil and distributor try to open the cap, remove the rotor and then remove the inside protective shield and blow out the guts of the distributor. If you get no dust or dirt or reddish film, you are internally clean, but if you get any dust or dirt the inside of the distributor is rusting.
Use a very good dielectric type contact cleaner that leaves no residue or a very good brake cleaner but use caution you do not want to melt plastics or mis-shapen the slot windows on the timing ring.
If the 2 screws holding down the distributor cap prove a bit hard to release, a small vise grip just to break the rust will release them and then on the re-install use anti-seize on these 2 outer screws.
Removing and replacing the spark plugs is a chore for me because of a previous stroke, but if any of you have difficulty with this job I find it easier to take my time and orient my body to the specific plug I am working on. Remove adjust, re gap, clean or replace each plug until done. For some reason I have a better chance remembering the angles. Still @ 6 eludes me.
Like any vehicle these Nissans rust, so undercoat them. I use Krown for many reasons, it does not become thick or dry and it keeps the wires, connections corrosion free
Pathfinders and QX4 are basically the same with their brakes. I discovered about 13 years ago that you must clean and lube their brakes often. Every 3-6 months I clean, remove build up, dress, clean the braking surfaces and put the brakes into as new condition and keep your E brake properly adjusted.
Power steering oil change is simple and easy with a suction tube, remove the fluid 2x steer the wheels lock to lock, after each time and replenish to cold top. I find that the steering returns to as new condition, but this may be in my head.
Those with A/C, use it or lose it. A/C is on for air conditioning and defrost of the windscreen. The compressor contains lubrication oil that lubes the pump-compressor only when it runs. The compressor only runs when the front electro-mechanical clutch is energized by someone turning on the A/C.
Checking a noisy running gear is easier to do with the windows down and going through the gears and 2WD then 4 WD. The transfer case is not a shifting gear case so expect a little rumble when changing it and be certain it is fully engaged.
Check you suspension and front steering by going under the jacked up vehicle with a pipe wrench or water pump pliers and try to torque those parts with rubber. The front steering can be tested when both wheels are in the air and you use a long pry bar to test ball joints, strut towers and feel and listen.
I'm looking for another 5-6 years for this vehicle to match a 1978 Bronco.
Timed maintenance for early QX4
Re: Timed maintenance for early QX4
Just curious,ARKQX33V6 wrote:
I'm looking for another 5-6 years for this vehicle to match a 1978 Bronco.
What is your current mileage of the QX4 and what was the mileage of the Bronco when it died?
Re: Timed maintenance for early QX4
Chris, QX4, 1997, 250,000 KM. 1978 Bronco, 400 Ci In, C6 transmission about 110,000 km but many idle hours and snow plowing hours with many times buried in mud and snow. When 2 yrs old drove with no oil in crankcase thanks to Ford dealer who forgot to add oil on an oil change. After 50 km or so engine very hot, checked and found no oil no oil filter, called dealer said they will warrant repairs. Bought oil and filter installed. Worked for another 18 years. I guess the no oil fiasco honed the engine good.
The QX4 is an OK vehicle, being the first for that model, it is built well but some design aspects are horrible. But after 14 years I'm used to the failings and just maintain it knowing its weak spots.
When the 3.5 came out, the HP was upped which was needed but fuel economy suffered a lot, my MPG highway is always 30-32 but only straight highway. That's 700-750 km a tank.
Transmission and transfer case has been trouble free, suspension links a bit bothersome from wear. Tires last 130,000-160,000 km. Brakes are OK but require constant work.
Everything still operates, all electric things, seats, windows, lights but that may be from corrosion protection because like Datsun these vehicles are rust buckets. The paint job is good.
After 20 years will it still be around? I think so as long as I keep working on it, and I'll never get used to replacing that ****dam # 6 plug. As far as I am concerned it is the worst job for me, not changing brakes, tie rods, ball joints but getting my body up to where I can see and manipulate socket, extensions and ratchet to undo then install a single plug.
It could be worse, I could have to jack up the engine like other cars I'v owned.
My next vehicle will probably be a 2 or 4 cylinder or another diesel, but then they have their issues.
The QX4 is an OK vehicle, being the first for that model, it is built well but some design aspects are horrible. But after 14 years I'm used to the failings and just maintain it knowing its weak spots.
When the 3.5 came out, the HP was upped which was needed but fuel economy suffered a lot, my MPG highway is always 30-32 but only straight highway. That's 700-750 km a tank.
Transmission and transfer case has been trouble free, suspension links a bit bothersome from wear. Tires last 130,000-160,000 km. Brakes are OK but require constant work.
Everything still operates, all electric things, seats, windows, lights but that may be from corrosion protection because like Datsun these vehicles are rust buckets. The paint job is good.
After 20 years will it still be around? I think so as long as I keep working on it, and I'll never get used to replacing that ****dam # 6 plug. As far as I am concerned it is the worst job for me, not changing brakes, tie rods, ball joints but getting my body up to where I can see and manipulate socket, extensions and ratchet to undo then install a single plug.
It could be worse, I could have to jack up the engine like other cars I'v owned.
My next vehicle will probably be a 2 or 4 cylinder or another diesel, but then they have their issues.