Time to do the timing belt and related...

General discussion forum for J30 and M30 owners!
f33lmywrath
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Car: 1993 J30
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https://youtu.be/B5c2DnP5d40



Uh oh

Ordered the timing belt, idler bearings, complete tensioner, and water pump.

Do you think I should do the VTC springs too?


macgiver
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No , I had done a J30 Timing belt , car @ 250k mi , seen all the talk on those springs - with many saying no real benefit. Virtually all that knock and goofy slapping sounds I had - just like yours was eliminated with the decent quality Dayco (std ,not the Blue "race belt"). As evident in the old belt being weak,sloppy,worn,probably stretched , but no serious chunks missing. And with 2 new pullys + tensioner/pully replacements and most important proper tension adjust (after rotating crank many times ie. 8 ,the pintle on the tensioner sposed to be halfway out - but tends be out more than you think) best to check it finally with slight clockwise tork ie. 3 ft/lbs - just short of overcoming rotation . My observation - most get that final adjustment a little too loose. You do have some break-in here is why I mention which tends to only unload the tensioner.
Huge improvement all around,cams don't slap,smooth revs ,waaay reduced cam sound,upped the response.
Lastly I'm glad to not have messed with cam return springs because I believe others were right with the opinion it has little to no improvement in these engines , as mine is beyond my expectation as an old mechanic , just doing timing set with good/OEM componants AND proper tensioning , for you gotta take cam gears off going "deeper" into the motor doing those springs too I believe.

f33lmywrath
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Parts parts parts

https://m.imgur.com/8p0zo2V


Also got the full auto-tensioner assembly (not pictured)

f33lmywrath
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Do you happen to have any resources further explaining the tensioner adjustment? I was of the understanding that the auto-tensioner does not need adjustment.

macgiver
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I don't believe your assumption is correct , on 93 J30 motors . I know what I said above to be true , I did mine along with help from a Nissan Expert mechanic of 20 years - he knows all that too . My best advice is to have someone having actual J-30 (VG3DE ??whatever in those) experience who can tighten-up tensioner OR be there to check "Live and in color" your work before you button up everything , definitely before you starter-crank or especially attempt an actual startup & run.
Always slowly "hand-crank" several revolutions to asess ANY timing job.

f33lmywrath
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I just took a look at the service manual and there is a detailed auto-tensioner adjustment procedure. :mike

f33lmywrath
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macgiver
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You basically want that "pintle" ,which gives steady - NOT a variable tension to be right in a halfway out
position after say 1000 mi of break-in. Which I find is achieved by setting the "static" adjustment SLIGHTLY IN by 1-2mm. I did all ( two belts) whereas the last one went 160k mi , and the pintle was still only 3/4 to full extension before the dismantling process - That's Ideal!! Adj was PERFECT.
For IF it bottoms out during the lifetime(100-120Kmi) and becomes FULLY extended -you've just LOST your tension now and thereafter - that's where belts will both jump and have chunks pull off prematurely . :yesnod

p.s. And no I didn't change oil seals either , like previously said nor those springs - had no leaks , for I always used Mobil 1 and M-1 filters and I couldn't be happier with my results done the way I chose FWIW.

f33lmywrath
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My old tensioner was extended a little farther than beyond spec:
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The bracket on the new auto-tensioner assembly was slightly different, and I was unable to achieve the correct adjustment. I ended up having to disassemble my old auto-tensioner and rob the bracket. After cleaning, I put the new piston assembly and bearing on the old bracket and was able to achieve spec. (Note this picture not of my fraken-tensioner, but a picture of the new assembly not fitting correctly.)

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Other than the bracket differences on the tensioner, the process was pretty straight forward. There are numerous guides online for the timing belt procedure on this engine. The only thing I would have done differently was have the upper timing belt cover gaskets on hand. Upon inspection, there were no gaskets on either of the upper covers :facepalm: I am glad I had two cans of brake clean and enough shop towels to clean off all the grime that had collected on the covers.

Upon reflection, I now remember that I LEFT THE STOPPER BOLT IN THE AUTOTENSIONER. While the bolt was extended enough not to have an effect on the operation of the tensioner, enough road vibrations could theoretically unscrew the bolt, have it fall and cause catastrophic failure. Maybe I'll order the timing belt cover gaskets and do a partially disassembly to rescue the bolt and install the cover gaskets.

macgiver
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That screw absolutely affects tension from the tensioner I believe. For if it was left at the adj setting of approximately - "pintle halfway out " , AND you did NOT ever back off the screw slightly , ie. left it there - that situation effectively "clamps"the tension. Definately get it out soon , in my opinion.
Many have made this mistake though , looks like a good clean job and used your head dealing with the variance on that part.
Can you describe any performance , noise improvements etc. you observe? :yesnod

f33lmywrath
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On further consideration, I now recall taking the stopper bolt out :chuckle: You can see it being used as my air intake hold down attaching to the passenger side of the radiator. That would have been a major oversight error. I still am considering the upper timing belt cover gaskets, otherwise I might just run tape along the outer gap and call it good.

My engine now runs considerably quieter. I no longer am hearing a squeak which was likely my tensioner, idlers, or water pump. This wasn’t a drive belt squeak as I had previously ran the engine without the drive belts and still had the noise.

Performance wise, I have yet to stress test the engine. I haven’t ran the rpms past 3k as I was letting the belt stretch and settle first.

On an unrelated note, my alternator has an “excessive ripple”. This had led to the draining of my battery on occasion. I will address this in the foreseeable future.

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Thank you for the insight and help.

macgiver
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:21 am

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Man , alternators will have minor ripple like that .2V , hell it's putting out the typical 14. whatever . Usually we hear 13.8V - 14.9 V range being sufficient . A form of that "parasitic draw" is what you should prolly diagnose or eliminate first. You know - when the car is sitting , off ,for a while and battery gets mysteriously drained ?
Seriously wouldn't put it past an A-zone cub telling you need to replace an alternator , cause it's ALTERNATING!
And that causes SOME little ripple , and I aint talkin wine :rotflmao

MikeRL411
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My 97 J30T had the battery self discharge problem. It was eventually traced to a low grade short in the stereo tuner head and the stereo was replaced under warranty. I still use a trickle charger when it is in the garage. Belt and suspenders? Maybe but it works.

f33lmywrath
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The problem is that I do have an audible alternator whine. It started this past fall, where I also noticed more of a drain on my battery. I’ve messed with my electrical quite a bit, so I understand the territory.

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I’m glad a kept my stocker and friend Gerard is also helping out with the alternator matter. (This was my old pic when I did my audio upgrades. I also ran a 1 ought cable from the positive to the battery post.)

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