Time for 1st oil change..92 240sx 100% stock....

[unit77]

I did a search and didnt get anything...tried to use the links in the 'sticky' but,with my dial-up connection,they just sat there......my ? is simple,what oil and filter do you guys recomend for average,everyday driving?....thanks

[Mr.Sandman]

Always, and always go with Full Synthetic. Mobil 1 Full Syn. 5w30. And, also use Black Label bottle "Lucas" additive. You have a small block, dont need to go with thick oil. Some may say you should go with 10w30. Thats fine, though just 5w30 is just fine. I save 2 miles per gallon now with 5w30 vs 10w30. Engine doesn't have to struggle as much pushing the oil through the block.

Also, i use FRAM for my oil filter. Why, cuz they have a hand grips, so nice and easy to take on/off.

[Dattebayo]

You dont need synthetic for a stock motor, dino oil will be just fine. Anyone who tells you "always" synthetic is probably trying to sell you something. No offense sandman. If you drive it real hard, you may want to use 10W30 because of increased viscosity.

[unit77]

Thanks for the suggestion but I seriously doubt the car has ever had synthetic oil in it ,and at 159k miles and a few leaks later,I'm not gonna start using it now...also,I always thought 5w30 and 10w30 and even straight 30 were all the same viscosity when hot..different when cold.:>)

[unit77]

The owners manual specifies 5w30 and API Service SG...I have looked at AZ,Advanced etc and cant find anything with that API rating.....is that something that has 'evolved' to a newer rating?...thanks

[fatboy]

Always, and always go with Full Synthetic. Mobil 1 Full Syn. 5w30. And, also use Black Label bottle "Lucas" additive. You have a small block, dont need to go with thick oil. Some may say you should go with 10w30. Thats fine, though just 5w30 is just fine. I save 2 miles per gallon now with 5w30 vs 10w30. Engine doesn't have to struggle as much pushing the oil through the block.

Also, i use FRAM for my oil filter. Why, cuz they have a hand grips, so nice and easy to take on/off.

some of the worst advice ive heard. ever. first of all, oil viscosity doesnt have anything to do with the size of the motor. besides, you shouldnt have to use any additives. i like to use ams oil with an amsoil filter. have you seen a fram filter cut open. its absolute shiet. wix is great too,they also make the carquest and napa filters.

[Mr.Sandman]

some of the worst advice ive heard. ever. first of all, oil viscosity doesnt have anything to do with the size of the motor. besides, you shouldnt have to use any additives. i like to use ams oil with an amsoil filter. have you seen a fram filter cut open. its absolute shiet. wix is great too,they also make the carquest and napa filters.

your such a fool, I'm not going to argue with you. I've corrected you too many times, and tired of it. Your just worthless, its such an important topic, that takes way to much time writing about. Enjoy your nice conventional oil, cuz you'll...wait you've already got me started..........

You obviously have no concept of why a partiular oil is decided upon by the manufacturer and not only that but how the engines oil passages are created based on that decision. You are most certainly reducing oil flow with the thicker oil, not only that but your engine has to work harder to move that oil around. The most imprortant areas to lubricate are dependant on oil volume and pressure, both are crucial and very with temperature. Put, 5w30 in your motor and if you don't feel an improvement your no kind of driver. Take my word for it or not I couldn't care less but I guess the rest of us and the manufacturers have no idea what we are doing.

Do some research on synthetic before making such an ignorant statement. True if he has an oil leak and he's going to top it off it really doesn't matter because the oil life is not an issue it leaks out before it can break down. As for synthetic being overrated check this link. This is not the 70s, were not testing sh*t out.

[PalmerWMD]

Cool it Sandmann.

You are not all correct especially in recommend additives.

Some of which have been known to overpower a formulations, anti-foaming agents with detrimental results.

As for syn I have used nothing But syns, for many years but Dino oils are getting better and better and i migth consider one for a 150k mile car thats not turboed.

Also there are no reasons to go with a 5w-30 in summer, Especially on an older motor, no matter what the manual says.

Budget plays a reason also.I run Redline 10w-40 in my car, its one of very very vew VII free formulations.But my application is different than his.

Recommendation:If youre on abit of abudget:-The cheapest oil thats still good is Chevron Supreme use it in 10w-40 in summer and 5w-30 in winter, it is a Group II+ base stock, so its as good as it as an oil gets, w/o being a syn.

$1,15 last at Walmart last time I checked.

If you intend to drive your car very hard, I'd suggest maybe valvoline Durablend 10-40 in summer and 5w-30 in winter.

If you turbo your car I'd go with Mobil1 in 0w-40 in winter and 15w-50 in summer .

Stay away from "high mile formulations" as they add additives to make high intervals possible but those also take the place of lube stock and likely reduce lubricity.

PS: Fram is a known bad filter compared to AC Delco, OEM, any Mahle made filter, even SuperTech filters have better internals than the Frams.I dont think there is a brand on teh market that has fewer pleats less filtration and poorer internal construction ( which may result in cardboard ebing sent thru your engine.)

[PalmerWMD]

The owners manual specifies 5w30 and API Service SG...I have looked at AZ,Advanced etc and cant find anything with that API rating.....is that something that has 'evolved' to a newer rating?...thanks

that API rating has been superseded.read a s"better than SG".

All brand name oils exceed SG.

you will see mostly SL and SM ( the newest) on the shelves

[Mr.Sandman]

Thats fine, if you have winter go for whatever you think is working. If you say I'm wrong with lucas additives, then have a reason. You've probably done your research, and thats why. Well, i've done mine, and I know the differ. So, you go your way, and ill go mine, and will all be happy. i respect your reply. Don't worry, i was not getting too mad, its just that i hate when people try to correct someone with no facts. B/C then its just opinion.

I'm also wanted to clear up one thing. I have no problem with conventional oil, no problem using it if you replace every 3k and if your not hard on your engine. But, im hard ever day on both cars that i own. I feel its required, due to the amount of research i put into it. Yes, i use 5w30 in summer time, cuz i add black label Lucas bottle, not the thick ****. BLACK LABEL. I use Fram, cuz for the most part, oil filter has one purpose. Its not to hard to mess that up, and Mainly b/c it has a grip. If their is better filters out that filter the oil in a better way. Fine use it, but im not a hardcore racer in my Accord. Now, my other car gets the expensive ****, cuz i can afford it.

[elphkotm]

If your motor is pretty much stock (bolt-ons allowed) and you just drive it like a normal human being with the occasional redline once and a while, just run regular dino oil. Chevron Supreme, Mobil Drive Clean, and Shell Rotella T are all excellent conventional oils. Don't use FRAM filters, seriously. I get Purolators at my local Advance, but pretty much anything is better than FRAM. STP, Mobil, WIX, Purolator, K&N and of course OEM filters are all much better than a FRAM.

[unit77]

Thats the info I was looking for....I think I will go w/Valvoline...I have an '88; S-10 w/4.3...never had anything else in it,since first 2500 mile oil change...269k and dont even check the oil between oil changes,although I know its maybe .5 qt low at this point due to some very minor leakage and a small blue 'puff' if the truck sits for a few days...:>)....never had a bolt turned on the block or heads.....thanks for EVERYONE's opinions and suggestions....:>)

[elphkotm]

The Valvoline MaxLife contains a whole crapload of this stuff called Molybedum (compared to standard oil formulations) that cushions piston rings and valve seals and a bunch of other stuff. Another thing to think about.

[Mr.Sandman]

The Valvoline MaxLife contains a whole crapload of this stuff called Molybedum (compared to standard oil formulations) that cushions piston rings and valve seals and a bunch of other stuff. Another thing to think about.

Dont take this the wrong way, just tryin to help the man. Though, how are you going to educate someone by calling it "whole crapload of this stuff called Molybedum", and "bunch of other stuff". I like to use facts, so that it gives the viewers more confidents in what im talking about. Oryou know it all, just didn't feel like saying all the complicated factors that come in to play. i dont know, im just wonder. thats all.

[fatboy]

your such a fool, I'm not going to argue with you. I've corrected you too many times, and tired of it. Your just worthless, its such an important topic, that takes way to much time writing about. Enjoy your nice conventional oil, cuz you'll...wait you've already got me started..........

You obviously have no concept of why a partiular oil is decided upon by the manufacturer and not only that but how the engines oil passages are created based on that decision. You are most certainly reducing oil flow with the thicker oil, not only that but your engine has to work harder to move that oil around. The most imprortant areas to lubricate are dependant on oil volume and pressure, both are crucial and very with temperature. Put, 5w30 in your motor and if you don't feel an improvement your no kind of driver. Take my word for it or not I couldn't care less but I guess the rest of us and the manufacturers have no idea what we are doing.

Do some research on synthetic before making such an ignorant statement. True if he has an oil leak and he's going to top it off it really doesn't matter because the oil life is not an issue it leaks out before it can break down. As for synthetic being overrated check this link. This is not the 70s, were not testing sh*t out.

im sorry, enlighten me on times you've corrected me. teach me something mr.

[Mr.Sandman]

lol, i sounded like an ***, and thats my mistake. What would you like to know? And if i can not find what your looking for. I will research for you, for whatever you need. "The more i learn, the more i learn that i dont know."

[dfw240_EE]

I am siding with PalmerWMD here, I prefer to use all synth oils. They do wear better and I am not the best at changing my oil like clockwork. Synth is probably overkill, but I can stomach the extra cost. For a stock motor though, I think AMSoil is probably gross overkill. I use Mobil1 oil and filters. Nice happy median price.

Addendum: I also recommend 10W30 for an older engine. My KA leaks some, even with the front seal changed (it just leaks ALOT less now). I found switching to 10W30 helped, though I wouldn't dare go any higher than recommended than that.