Tie Rod Puller = pickle fork?

[board drafter]

Sorry for the noob post, but I've searched and can't find any info on this:

I want to adjust toe-in on the rfront wheel on my 2000 i30 and the nissan manual is calling for what appears to be a special pulling device.

Can I just use a pickle fork to seperate the tie rod end?

Any help is much appreciated!

Thanx!!

[jdm_master_X]

i dont own a maxima, but most if not all tie rod adjustment is done at the adjustment nut, which does not require the removal of the tie rod.

if you take a look at the inboard side of the tie rod, you will notice a nut and a series of threads. that is where the adjustment is done.

[board drafter]

OK, but once you take the nut and the cotter pin from where the tie rod connects to the steering knuckle, isn't a signifigant amount of force required to separate this ball joint?

[MaximA32]

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SEPERATE THE TIE ROD TO SET THE ALIGNMENT.

My suggestion would be to take the car to a shop that does alignments and has an alignment machine. You simply cannot set the alignment accurately just by "eyeballing" it. There are many considerations when setting the alignement and it is nearly impossible to do this in the driveway and hoping that it's right. So, take it to a shop, drop some cash and get it done the right way.

[maxhopper]

I don't think you need to remove the tie rod from the knuckle in order to make the adjustment. The instructions jdm_master_X posted sound right.

But if you do need to remove the tie rod end from the knuckle, a pickle fork will work. Just be careful not to tear the boot.

EDIT: Kenny beat me to it. If you are looking for a place locally to get an alignment done cheap; go to Tony's Brake and Alingment on Poplar Level Road (969-3853). I believe it only cost around $53.

[MaximA32]

Ball joint and tie rod are two different things all together. The tie rod does the actual steering of the vehicle and is threaded onto the inner tie rod which is then threaded onto the power steering rack. The ball joint is the lower pivot point for the entire front end and bears some of the load along with the springs, struts and strut mounts. Both are wear parts and should be checked for excessive play periodically. You can check the tie rods for play by grabbing either side of the tire and moving the assembly side to side (with the steering wheel UNLOCKED). If you feel any free play, you have some bad parts. To check the ball joint is just as simple. Grasp the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock postion and push in and out alternately with your hands. If you feel any play there it is slightly harder to diagnose due to the fact that it may be the wheel bearing. This is where a friend comes in handy. Crawl underneath the car while your friend checks for play (or vice versa) and be sure the vehicle is securely supported because I do no recommend going underneath a vehicle when it is not, as there is a chance it could fall and severely injure you or someone else. Now, if you see the ball joint moving, then it has excessive play and needs to be replaced. If you do not see the ball joint moving, then it might be the wheel bearing and you will need to replace that. If your bearings are making some noise, an easy way to determine which one is to raise the vehicle and spin each wheel while holding the spring. If you feel any vibration through the spring, the bearing is going bad and should be replaced.

Hope this makes sense and was of some help.

[jdm_master_X]

grasp the wheel at the 12 and 6 o clock position is to test the ball joint. testing it at 9 and 3 o clock is testing the wheel bearing.

or if you want to be a little more accurate, get a dial indicator and place it on the wheel when you wiggle the wheel. each car has specific measurements for end play and so on.

[board drafter]

I appreciate the humbling advice. I guess there's just some things I shouldn't do on my own, but I am such a cheap-a--.

Thanks again!!

[A.Tech]

hahha jdm_master_X... I hate j00 now because I really want to go buy some red vines and Dr.pepper.. haha