Has anyone done this install before?
If so how hard is the install, is there any tips on how to make the install easier?
I have a s13
Tie end rod/Front control arm install
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Holisticbeatz
- Posts: 1221
- Joined: Thu Mar 06, 2003 6:09 pm
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
I did the install once on my S14. I bent the tie rod, tension rod, lower control arm, sway bar, sway bar endlink and a rim. I ended going with Tein tie rods w/ ends and Tanabe tension rods. Picked up a used lower control arm from a junkyard and did the install in one day.
The install is fairly straight forward, remove all the banged up busted parts and install the new goodies. Be sure to go to the alignment shop afterwards. Also, having the right tools makes the job a lot easier. Furthermore, if you don't have a FSM, get one. With suspension components, torque specs are very important.
Good luck!
The install is fairly straight forward, remove all the banged up busted parts and install the new goodies. Be sure to go to the alignment shop afterwards. Also, having the right tools makes the job a lot easier. Furthermore, if you don't have a FSM, get one. With suspension components, torque specs are very important.
Good luck!
The tension rod on the s13? It's very easy and straight forward. Once the car's been jacked up, look for the tension rods. They are connected to the lower arms and to the brace on the underside of the frame rails. There's one bolt though the brace and two on the arms. Get those out and you'll be set to install your new tension rods. If your bushings are going to be replaced for those rods, then get to your local machinest to get the new bushings pressed into your tension rods and reinstall. Your torque specs are the same for all your bolts. They are 65-80 foot pounds.
If you're doing tie rods, remove your old tie rods. Remember to get a new CV boot set unless you just replaced yours. You'll also need some grease so make sure you've got some handy and before I forget, a fork to seperate the ball joint from the knuckle. Start by removing your old tie ends. When removing, remember to count the number of turns, not thread. That'll help keep your alignment as close as possible to original spec and no there's no "magic number" for those who are seeking a short cut in the install process. Pop out the cv boot by undoing the metal wire that's holding the back end in place. There should be a little o-ring like thing holding the front in place but there's no need to replace that.
You should now see the ball joint for the inner rod and also a flat section where you can get an adjustable wrench on it. Get that inner rod out now and prep the new one for install. I'd put some loctite blue or something on the threads of the part that'll go inside the steering rack and not on the threads of the tie end. Now put on your cv boot and tie it back down with the metal wire. Next step is to install your ends which is where you now start to count the turns, not the threads. Reinstall end of ball joint into the steering knuckle and put back on the castle nut. Do replace the cotter pin with a new one after putting back on the castle nut. When you're on your maiden voyage, test it to see if it pulls in any direction. If all went well, it shouldn't. But in the event that it didn't, get your car to an alignment shop, probably a good idea anyway.
If you're doing tie rods, remove your old tie rods. Remember to get a new CV boot set unless you just replaced yours. You'll also need some grease so make sure you've got some handy and before I forget, a fork to seperate the ball joint from the knuckle. Start by removing your old tie ends. When removing, remember to count the number of turns, not thread. That'll help keep your alignment as close as possible to original spec and no there's no "magic number" for those who are seeking a short cut in the install process. Pop out the cv boot by undoing the metal wire that's holding the back end in place. There should be a little o-ring like thing holding the front in place but there's no need to replace that.
You should now see the ball joint for the inner rod and also a flat section where you can get an adjustable wrench on it. Get that inner rod out now and prep the new one for install. I'd put some loctite blue or something on the threads of the part that'll go inside the steering rack and not on the threads of the tie end. Now put on your cv boot and tie it back down with the metal wire. Next step is to install your ends which is where you now start to count the turns, not the threads. Reinstall end of ball joint into the steering knuckle and put back on the castle nut. Do replace the cotter pin with a new one after putting back on the castle nut. When you're on your maiden voyage, test it to see if it pulls in any direction. If all went well, it shouldn't. But in the event that it didn't, get your car to an alignment shop, probably a good idea anyway.