ticking of death and thoughts on JWT cams

[LiU]

ok last weekend I just removed the metal top chain guide (always thought it was plastic) on my 96 ka24de, at the same time put in JWT cams. 1. The engine still makes a ticking sound, Russ told me that there's another in the front that can make the ticking sound, but as far as the chain guide falling off and damagine the engine goes, if I remove the top chain guide I should be fine. But that ciking is still annoying though.2. JWT cams - I seem to have lost a significant amount of low end power, it seems this is the worst at 3000 rpm, I haven't really been up high yet, but in a week or so when the cams breakin I will try them out.

[LiU]

bump... 1. just removing the top guide, I still hear a ticking sound, but it really doesn't bother me as long as that doesn't present a problem... so my question is does it?2. oh yea I just found that my injectors are also "ticking" but it's more lightly, would this be a problem?

[Nismo_Freak]

Injectors tick as they open... that noise your hearing is the lower chain guides and tensioners need to be replaced.

[LiU]

1. so the injectors ticking is normal2. what happens if I don't replace lower chain guide and tensioner?

[MikeMurphy]

maybe a lifter tapping?

[Structure240sx]

we dont have lifters in the ka24de

[LiU]

well it seems that on the highway my car sounds less loud now around 3000 rpm, usually I step on it at 3000 and the thing pulls vERY nice and is really loud in the ****pit (damn hotshot headers), now it's not so loud anymore and doesn't pull as hard, in a coupla days I'll be stepping on it to find how it does in the higher ranges.

[LiU]

oh how long should I break them in for? these are used jwt cams but I was told 200 miles are good.

[Holy Roller]

so how do the cams feel in the high rpm range? you should feel much improvement, from what I hear anyway.

[AzurE]

the only thing you have to do to break in a set of cams is dont let it idle below 1500 rpm for first 2-3 hours or so.did you check valve lash after the cam swap, after they broke in? if they are loose they are annoying and you lose power...if they are tight, you burn valves.also a cam with more duration likes a little more ignition advance. the ecu is prob advancing the max of its range which is prob shy of what wider cams needs. try advancing it 2º, test drive it, advance another 2º, test drive it...etc till you notice ping/knock..then retard it 4º. the theory being adjusting it beyond the range the ecu can compensate and then retarding back into range where the ecu can play with it. mine likes 24º. mine dont even wake up till 3500 and pull up to 5800,