2003 altima 2.5l se 5spd, 135k miles

when i drive the car and I'm coming to a stop i put my foot on the clutch pedal the rams drop to ~1200rpms then surge back up to 2000rpms then back and forth slowly several times for 3-10 seconds but generally 5. if i blip the throttle when stationary and in neutral the rpms will come down very slowly from 2000 and do the above surging thing for several seconds and then drop to 750. its been doing something similar to this for the 6 months I've owned the car but it would hold at 1k rpms with the clutch pedal depressed until i came to a stop then immediately drop to idle. i assumed that was normal, I'm beginning to think not. I have been unable to find a definitive procedure on resetting my ECU. i can get my hands on an obd2 scanner from a friend, can i reset the edu with that or will that even help? it does not surge or lag under power and in gear just with the clutch depressed. it does seem to get worse and the time of the surging gets longer after a longer driving session, but i have not been able to definitively confirm this. there are no codes. any ideas or am i in for a trip to the stealership?

no ideas at all?

If the car is surging or hunting like that then something is telling it to add and subtract fuel and or air. I would put my money on a faulty sensor giving false information to the PCM. Just because a sensor is faulty doesn't mean it will always throw a code and turn on the check engine light. It could fail but still give inaccurate readings to the PCM. When you depress the clutch, engine load is decreased due to the disconnecting of the clutch disc and the flywheel. I'm guessing that its trying to adjust air/fuel mixture due to decrease in engine load but because of a false input, it cant make the correct changes and surges or hunts until it can find its happy place. I'd check for vacuum leaks and hook a scan tool up and look at the live data stream. Look at IAC counts, MAF sensor, MAP sensor,coolant temp sensor, and fuel trims. Also check for carbon buildup around your throttle body and IAC and clean if necessary. As for resetting your PCM, a normal scan tool cannot do that. You would need to go to the dealer for any re flashing of modules. They have scan tools specifically programmed to flash PCMs.

Has anyone had any experience positive or negative when using an ELM wifi obd2 adaptor to the dash commander app for an iPhone/ipad? i took it to the dealership, they said the TB is in great shape and they reset the ECU. the problem went away for a few days now its back, i have heard the ECU can take between 40 minutes and 400 miles to start causing a stable normal idle after a relearn but i can't find a definitive on this either way. I'm trying to find a cost effective way to see the "live stream" on this car. I've read mixed reviews on these adaptors going from they are fantastic to toasting ECU's. so I'm wondering how they do on these cars. any thoughts?

I should clarify, after the ECU reset the surge is better, much better, its now just surging up to 1100ish rpms and not as constantly but its still happening.