Got the Active Suspension test to work by moving the N/H switch back and forth. It ends up with the light flashing 5 times quickly followed by a pause and then 5 times again and so on. Hopefully from reading the manual this means no faults!. However, I assume I could still have partially flat actuators that could account for the stiff ride I have mentioned in other posts?
Seems as if the fuel pump needs replacing ASAP based on all the advice. I don't quite understand why it screws up the controller though.
Had the alignment redone this time with the car running and it seems better!
Went fairly quick around a slow corner today in the rain, and got a reminder I was in a V8 power rear wheel drive car. I guess I would agree with whoever stated that Michelin Pilots are poor in the wet
Bought a fuel filter today - any tips on fitting
Next week I am taking to a company called "CARSMETICS" for some minor dings and chips to be touch up. They specialize in this type of work so I will let you all know how it turns out
Can't decide whether to change the ignition plugs as I don't know the history. Runs very slightly rough when cold as if there is a hesitation when accelerating. Very slight but I am picky
Noticed a slight diff whine, very faint when under load. I had the fluid changed last week. Should I add any additive?
How should engine sound, I think I can hear slight valve gear noise when the negine is running and hot. I assume this is normal but I have nothing to compare it with.
Sorry for the long post but I guess I am still in the honeymoon period!!
David
Three Weeks into Ownership - Update
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AZhitman
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- Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
- Location: Surprise, Arizona
- Contact:
David - Plugs should be changed regardless. Go NGK platinum ONLY, get them from Joe at Scottsdale for a good deal.
Valvetrain noise can be remedied by changing oil viscosities - Several "purists" here swear by Mobil 1 20w50, as well as Valvoline Synpower.
Fuel filter is an easy DIY. Remove fuel filler cap, pinch off inlet hose (or have some rags ready) and loosen the "sleeve", then upper and lower fittings.
Valvetrain noise can be remedied by changing oil viscosities - Several "purists" here swear by Mobil 1 20w50, as well as Valvoline Synpower.
Fuel filter is an easy DIY. Remove fuel filler cap, pinch off inlet hose (or have some rags ready) and loosen the "sleeve", then upper and lower fittings.
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maxnix
- Posts: 22627
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
1.) Run VIN at dealer or Infiniti customer service to see dealer performed maintenance.AZhitman wrote:1.) David - Plugs should be changed regardless. Go NGK platinum ONLY, get them from Joe at Scottsdale for a good deal.
2.) Valvetrain noise can be remedied by changing oil viscosities - Several "purists" here swear by Mobil 1 20w50, as well as Valvoline Synpower.
3.) Fuel filter is an easy DIY. Remove fuel filler cap, pinch off inlet hose (or have some rags ready) and loosen the "sleeve", then upper and lower fittings.
2.) AZHitman means 15-50W M1, found at Sam's Club and other fine automotive retailers (for more money). Not recommended for N of Mason Dixon or W of Sierras or Cascades in Winter.
3.) Read the posts on this. You will want to pull the pump fuse, turn engine over, then loosen gas cap before accessing the filter.
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elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
MAKE SURE YOU DO THE FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE!!!!!
Take out the fuel pump fuse (passenger compartment), and crank the engine a few times, THEN do it..... Otherwise the floodgates will open......
Code 55 indicates there's nothing wrong...... GOLDEN!!!!
have you checked your ECU codes..... Might also consider doing that......!
Diff- I dont think Id worry about it..... I dont really know of anything you can do.....
Replace the plugs asap..... Look at my website (in my sig) for a write up on the plugs, with some pictures......
The FPCU (fuel pump control unit) gets fried when the pump replacement is delayed because it ups the voltage (I think) trying to make up from the weak pump..... I have heard it is possible to recover the FPCU after it has been "fried" by resoldering some joints inside it.......
Take out the fuel pump fuse (passenger compartment), and crank the engine a few times, THEN do it..... Otherwise the floodgates will open......
Code 55 indicates there's nothing wrong...... GOLDEN!!!!
have you checked your ECU codes..... Might also consider doing that......!
Diff- I dont think Id worry about it..... I dont really know of anything you can do.....
Replace the plugs asap..... Look at my website (in my sig) for a write up on the plugs, with some pictures......
The FPCU (fuel pump control unit) gets fried when the pump replacement is delayed because it ups the voltage (I think) trying to make up from the weak pump..... I have heard it is possible to recover the FPCU after it has been "fried" by resoldering some joints inside it.......
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Q45tech
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- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Poor in wet is relative as from the best absolute finest to the worst performers in the same speed rating/same size won't vary 10% in speed thru a wet curve.
Study the wet slalom speeds on tirerack compaing Ultra, High Performance to just Touring.
Not to say you couldn't find a really horrible combination hard slicks vs extra soft rain treads but in the same class most tires are pretty close.
Almost purely a function of tread compound softness .........when you get to 300 tread wear and above these are not rain tires.Rain tires are softer than snow tires and wear out in 10-15,000 miles and should really be considered useful after they have 8,000 miles on them.
Most people can't/won't afford TRUE rain tires.........only the professional racers.
Study the wet slalom speeds on tirerack compaing Ultra, High Performance to just Touring.
Not to say you couldn't find a really horrible combination hard slicks vs extra soft rain treads but in the same class most tires are pretty close.
Almost purely a function of tread compound softness .........when you get to 300 tread wear and above these are not rain tires.Rain tires are softer than snow tires and wear out in 10-15,000 miles and should really be considered useful after they have 8,000 miles on them.
Most people can't/won't afford TRUE rain tires.........only the professional racers.
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rover3l
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 3:22 am
- Car: 1998 Q45, 2000Q45 Anniversary, 1965 Rover 3L,
Thanks Guy's
I am amazed at the knowledge you all have.
- Well I guess Buffalo is North of the Mason Dixon line! so I am not sure about the oil issue - I will read up in the FSM how to do the ECU test - Thanks for the explanation on how the fule pump reg can become fried. I can see now why I need to move quickly on getting my replacement pump - Given my Buffalo location and the rain in Fall and Spring seems like my tires are not going to be very practical.- I'll sure be careful and follow the advice on releasing the fuel line pressure before switching out the filter
David
I am amazed at the knowledge you all have.
- Well I guess Buffalo is North of the Mason Dixon line! so I am not sure about the oil issue - I will read up in the FSM how to do the ECU test - Thanks for the explanation on how the fule pump reg can become fried. I can see now why I need to move quickly on getting my replacement pump - Given my Buffalo location and the rain in Fall and Spring seems like my tires are not going to be very practical.- I'll sure be careful and follow the advice on releasing the fuel line pressure before switching out the filter
David
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Q45tech
- Moderator
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- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Oil hot viscosity is purely a function of bearing clearances.Without measuring the clearances all you can do is go by the oil pressure at hot idle. Every high mileage car will be different and thus the top number with be different in the range of 30-50.
In cold climates where starts are below 20F in winter the zero's or 5 weights are useful and more protective in the winter at least.10w should be used for the late spring-summer-early fall interval.
When you change every 90 days you have 4 chances to get it right. The idle oil pressure reading!
Thanks to a decent cooling system the hot coolant/oil temperature doen't change much assuming the thermostat is functioning correctly...... 180-220F.
Brand new oil/filter has the lowest idle oil pressure!
In cold climates where starts are below 20F in winter the zero's or 5 weights are useful and more protective in the winter at least.10w should be used for the late spring-summer-early fall interval.
When you change every 90 days you have 4 chances to get it right. The idle oil pressure reading!
Thanks to a decent cooling system the hot coolant/oil temperature doen't change much assuming the thermostat is functioning correctly...... 180-220F.
Brand new oil/filter has the lowest idle oil pressure!
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szh
- Posts: 15932
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
- Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.
Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO! - Location: San Jose, CA
maxnix wrote:2.) AZHitman means 15-50W M1, found at Sam's Club and other fine automotive retailers (for more money). Not recommended for N of Mason Dixon or W of Sierras or Cascades in Winter.
But it should be okay in the coastal California region, right? We rarely, if ever, even get close to 32 degrees F around SF Bay Area or in L.A. in mid-winter.
Z
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maxnix
- Posts: 22627
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
On a new engine in non-extreme heat conditons (like SF Bay winters) I would run 10-30W M1, especially on a new engine. Faster lubrication on cold starts. The only way to be sure is to measure oil pressure after it has heated to operating tempertaure for 15 minutes. __________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45
Discover the power of the button!
Discover the power of the button!
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maxnix
- Posts: 22627
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- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Yes, poorly articulated on my part. Do run it vigorously for 15 minutes after it has warmed to operating temperature.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45Q45tech wrote:Actually you want to run the engine under load for 15 minutes idling won't heat the oil up much!
Discover the power of the button!
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Q45tech
- Moderator
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Every Q [every car] should have an auxillary pressure and a temp digital meter.Since most sensors work the same with type digital gauges: you could have one gauge reading coolant, HEAD, oil, and transmission temperature [switching senders] AND one for oil and fuel pressure[switching senders].
With all the MAF problems croppping up lately I'm thinking of adding a voltmeter to measure the 1.1 to 4.5 volts [zero to 19.99] .
With all the MAF problems croppping up lately I'm thinking of adding a voltmeter to measure the 1.1 to 4.5 volts [zero to 19.99] .
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rover3l
- Posts: 514
- Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 3:22 am
- Car: 1998 Q45, 2000Q45 Anniversary, 1965 Rover 3L,
Last Progess Update
Since end of October I have continued with the "servicing" of my Q45a. Here is the update
1. New fuel pump from Joe at Scottsdale2. New Fuel filter3. New PCV4. New air filter5. New plugs (followed Elwesso's instructions)6. New TCS switch and Relay7. Wheel alignment and rotation done8. transmission Fluid, Oil, Oil Filter, Diff Fluid, Coolant changed9. Recharged strut accumulators received from Texasoil (will be changed over Thanksgiving)10. New attenna fitted11. New OEM floor mats fitted12. Complete interior and exterior detail and minor paint touch ups13. Ozone treatment to remove interior odor14. Some hoses replaced
The next few items I want to look at are
1. replacing my 215, 65 15inch Pilots with 225, 15, 60 series Yokohama AVS db's to improve both road noise and wet handling.2. Decide what to do about winter tires. I hope I could get away with the Yokohamas and some weight in the trunk. I do have TCS 3. Thinking about having Zeibarts noise control undershield applied to further reduce noise4. Need a solution to transmission whine, thinking of the filter change and replacing fluid with synthetic5. Would like to reduce valve train noise and thinking about Mobil 1 based on advice in the forum6. Planning to check ECU codes7. Want to check engine / transmission mounts
All wisdom gratefully received
1. New fuel pump from Joe at Scottsdale2. New Fuel filter3. New PCV4. New air filter5. New plugs (followed Elwesso's instructions)6. New TCS switch and Relay7. Wheel alignment and rotation done8. transmission Fluid, Oil, Oil Filter, Diff Fluid, Coolant changed9. Recharged strut accumulators received from Texasoil (will be changed over Thanksgiving)10. New attenna fitted11. New OEM floor mats fitted12. Complete interior and exterior detail and minor paint touch ups13. Ozone treatment to remove interior odor14. Some hoses replaced
The next few items I want to look at are
1. replacing my 215, 65 15inch Pilots with 225, 15, 60 series Yokohama AVS db's to improve both road noise and wet handling.2. Decide what to do about winter tires. I hope I could get away with the Yokohamas and some weight in the trunk. I do have TCS 3. Thinking about having Zeibarts noise control undershield applied to further reduce noise4. Need a solution to transmission whine, thinking of the filter change and replacing fluid with synthetic5. Would like to reduce valve train noise and thinking about Mobil 1 based on advice in the forum6. Planning to check ECU codes7. Want to check engine / transmission mounts
All wisdom gratefully received
I'll third the motion that Yokohama AVS db's will not work in the snow.
Went skiiing in Taos, NM, last year, and that day we got ~6 inches while on the mountain. I was the only one in the parking lot that had to use "chains" to get out. Never had that problem with my Dunlops, but I do prefer the Yoko's for all-around driving here in SoCal.
Went skiiing in Taos, NM, last year, and that day we got ~6 inches while on the mountain. I was the only one in the parking lot that had to use "chains" to get out. Never had that problem with my Dunlops, but I do prefer the Yoko's for all-around driving here in SoCal.