Those %&#&#*% Cam Bolts

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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Chrispy300
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Tried to get the cams off today to bleed the HLA's.

What a PITA!

Undid half of the bolts on the right hand exhaust cam. Broke 4 T30 bits in the process and stripped out 2 or 3 bolts

Any tips for getting the stripped ones out? Can I just cut the heads off with a 4" and remove what's left with some vicegrips?

I tried cutting a slit in it and using a hammer impact driver to try and loosen them, didn't work. Then tried cutting the side of the head to get some vice grips onto it, that didn't work either.

Any ideas?


ultrapulse
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I stripped one before I worked out to smack them with the torx bit in the bolt to loosen before trying to undo them. That worked.

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Chrispy300
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ultrapulse wrote:I stripped one before I worked out to smack them with the torx bit in the bolt to loosen before trying to undo them. That worked.
Yeah, I did that... Didn't work

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Raxephon
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I had to use these.

They ran me $50 for the complete set of 8. (there are spaces in the blue container under the cardboard for the ones in the second picture ),.

IRWIN BOLT-GRIP



The key to using them is to tap them on with a hammer until you feel it bite, and slow even/steady rotation.

Since my motor is actually a '95 I can use the stock bolts, (with 3mm washers), from the cam tower caps of a FWD SR20DE or a FWD/RWD KA24DE.

You can't use them with the earlier style valve cover with the steel inspection plate, there is interference. But they fit under the single piece valve covers just fine.

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Chrispy300
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So the SR20 bolts won't work with the older engine? Could I shorten them?

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Raxephon
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With the older valve cover that has the steel inspection plate on the side they won't clear.

Trimming is possible but I wouldn't suggest doing it to the fastener but the valve cover itself.

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Carl H
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i feel your pain but i only stripped two when i did my heads...easies thing to do is get a torx bit and a hammer...tap the bit into the bolt and then use an impact to loosen it in one fell swoop.

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Chrispy300
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Got me a set of those Irwin Bolt Grips, they work a treat. My new favourite tool

WizardBlack
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I just pulled the cam caps off a 180,000 mile motor and didn't have any problems. What I did:

Spray with brake parts cleaner to start dissolving oil soot in the torx recess and around the base of the head. Let sit.Come back with a ball peen hammer later. Grab it up at the head and lightly tap (at an angle) on the heads of the bolts. This will help break the oil soot free. Mine was almost like bolts with dried paint on them. It made it harder to break them free. Don't beat on it; just give it a tap/thwack.Get a set of picks (like a dentist pick) from a parts store and dig all the crud out of the recesses on the bolt heads. Get the grooves of the star points too.Get your hardened torx bit and ratchet setup. Most torx bits I saw were for 1/4" but I used an adapter to use a 3/8" ratchet with it for extra surface area. Get it on the first bolt and use that hammer to tap on the head of the ratchet to knock the bit down in the bolt head good. I use Craftsman tools so they are guaranteed and you don't have to smash it; just a good solid "thwack" so don't be afraid of hurting your ratchet. Use the thumb or palm of your off-hand to push down hard on the head of the ratchet while you turn it free with your other hand. This should get it to pop loose.If you watch the bit, it will twist a bit at first and then stop there. If you see a bolt starting to push the bit out or the bit twisting more, stop and use those Irwin extractors. Just hold it on the head and tap it onto the head with a hammer lightly.

Hope that helps.

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Chrispy300
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For those that root their cam bolts and want a non-retarded head on them, the VG30DE cam cap bolts work a charm

Only used them to replace the ones I stuffed, but they are the same length, same thread and same thread length!

No more screwing around with SR20 bolts hehehe.

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Carl H
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and they clear the early valve covers?hot damn...oh well...mine isnt comming apart for awhile.

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Chrispy300
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They appear to clear fine, not sure if they all clear as I only used a few. The valve cover went on fine for me.

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Raxephon
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How tall is the head of the bolts?

If they aren't relatively close to the height of the original then you will end up with clearance issues if you are using the earlier valve covers that had the steel inspection plates/covers.

If using the later model/non-inspection plated valve covers it shouldn't be an issue.

On a side note, sr20de cam tower cap bolts require a 3mm washer for them to be the correct shaft length.

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Chrispy300
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Seem to be perfect.

VG on the right, VH on the left:



Sorry for the awful photography.

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Raxephon
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Got a caliper/micrometer handy?

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Chrispy300
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No, but got one at work. What do you need?

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Raxephon
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Chrispy300 wrote:No, but got one at work. What do you need?
Measurements for the following pic.


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Carl H
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lol is that an arp specfication sheet?

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Raxephon
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Carl H wrote:lol is that an arp specfication sheet?
Nope, that is an MSPaint spec sheet care of Antonio.

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Chrispy300
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I'll try and get the measurements for you tomorrow...

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Raxephon
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Chrispy300 wrote:I'll try and get the measurements for you tomorrow...
I'm mainly looking for the VG cam tower cap bolt dimensions so I can put it with my SR diagram.



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