I've been having overheating problems ever since I moved down to the Palm Springs area. I've hit everything possible that could possibly cause this. Ive searched all over the board as well.
Ive changed my water pump with an OEM new one, replaced my thermostat with a B13 SER, I burped my system(maybe I didnt do it right can someone explain the process?)
I dont have oil in my coolant or vise versa, I compression tested it I doubt I have a blown headgasket:cyl #1- 148
cyl #2- 148
cyl #3- 150
cyl #4- 150
and I havent had my overflow tank overflowing since I poured in some stuff I bought that was suppose to seal leaks(guess it worked?)
I desperately need technical advice. Here are my mods:red top SR, HKS IC, blitz BOV, denslo fuel pump KA S13 stock radiator, stock electric fans.
is there some other culprit here or do I need to upgrade my radiator?? cause in the winter it was working perfectly it wasnt until I got to the valley and temperatures began to hit the 100s
but Ive heard people say the have stock radiators and run fine here in southern Cali?? Sorry so long but I had to get all my info out please give me your advice!!
This problem is killing me!!
Does your coolant circulate when the car is hot? Run the car with the cap off till it heats up and watch it to see if it flows. If not, the thermostat isn't working properly.
Second, let your car get nice and warm and feel all over the radiator. If you find hot and cold spots, your radiator has a blockage and either needs to be cleaned out by a shop or replaced.
Also stock electric fans? You do still have a clutch fan attached right, because as far as I know, the only thing those fans are for is if the AC is on.
Second, let your car get nice and warm and feel all over the radiator. If you find hot and cold spots, your radiator has a blockage and either needs to be cleaned out by a shop or replaced.
Also stock electric fans? You do still have a clutch fan attached right, because as far as I know, the only thing those fans are for is if the AC is on.
Keep in mind how hot a turbo engine runs in comparison to a NA engine. Even though you have an intercooler, that turbo still gets pretty damn hot. Its possible those stock fans aren't moving enough air over the engine to keep it cool. You could always prop the back of your hood up to let hot air out, and possibly add a hood scoop or vent if all else fails.
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Movingviolation240
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'93 Lexus SC300 w/ SP66 turbo kit
check to see what the actual temp of the radiator is, I was scared to death my SR was overheating, but it ended up just being a stupid difference with the USDM and JDM temp sender that my motor had (still havn't figured out why). My radiator temps were fine though so I tracked it down to that problem. Your fans should be sufficient, try taking the thermostat out, or replacing your radiator cap with a 300zx TT one.
PaulOrlando, FL
PaulOrlando, FL
but if it never marked it was overheating while I was in winter season could the temp sender still be the problem??Movingviolation240 wrote:check to see what the actual temp of the radiator is, I was scared to death my SR was overheating, but it ended up just being a stupid difference with the USDM and JDM temp sender that my motor had (still havn't figured out why). My radiator temps were fine though so I tracked it down to that problem.
Movingviolation240 wrote:Your fans should be sufficient, try taking the thermostat out, or replacing your radiator cap with a 300zx TT one
Yeah I even did that already Im in an extremely desperate state. It is over 100 degrees here in the desert and suxs having to drive around with the heater on sometimes. My needle starts to creep up towards hot after about 10-15 minutes of normal or freeway driving. Any other ideas???
thanks for the help
I changed the temp sending units.. I had the stock sr one, and replaced it with the one from the ka. And it seemed to have fixed my over heating problem for the most part. (it made a big difference) It gets hot if i beat the piss out of it, but it cools down when i get off it. I have a summit racing electric fan that flows 2300 cfm, and the stock clutch fan. I would strongly suggest getting an aluminum radiator if your going to be in that hot of a climate. Get the koyo its onyl 350 bucks, and if you want to be safe get the samco lower hose, the blitz upper hose that you can put a temp gauge sensor in, and get a cheap autometer water temp gauge so you can be sure, and safe. I would almost bet you wont have any more cooling problems with a new aluminium radiator. Good luck, Chris
I live about 30 minutes west of Palm Springs in the city of Banning and we experience the same heat as Palm Springs does, just a bit cooler by a couple degrees due to the mountains on both sides of the city. I've used my ka24e radiator for the past two years in 100+ degree weather here and mine always ran fine. I'm sure your radiator is efficient. It could just be your HKS fmic that is blocking all the air going to the radiator because the guy I help do a swap on is also experiencing high temps also in this weather. He has a different cooling system setup though. He has the koyo radiator with two cheap electric fans from autozone which I thought was pretty cheesy because they're not mean't for cooling.
But it could just be a small leak somewhere.
But it could just be a small leak somewhere.
S13240 wrote:I live about 30 minutes west of Palm Springs in the city of Banning and we experience the same heat as Palm Springs does, just a bit cooler by a couple degrees due to the mountains on both sides of the city. I've used my ka24e radiator for the past two years in 100+ degree weather here and mine always ran fine. I'm sure your radiator is efficient. It could just be your HKS fmic that is blocking all the air going to the radiator because the guy I help do a swap on is also experiencing high temps also in this weather. He has a different cooling system setup though. He has the koyo radiator with two cheap electric fans from autozone which I thought was pretty cheesy because they're not mean't for cooling.
But it could just be a small leak somewhere.
when you used the stock KA24e rad were u running the stock SMIC or did you have a front mount???
is there any way to find a leak other than looking for it???
thanks for the help
I'm using the stock sidemount still. Even when I was on my ka24e radiator I was using the stock smic. And that is one reason why I'm have second thoughts on a fmic because of overheating issue as I'm gonna be hooking up my ac system too so I need all the air I can get to my koyo radiator.
But unfortunately I do not know of any other way to check for leaks besides just physically looking for it. I say check your coolant lines going to the firewall and look for dried coolant under any of the hoses. Any loss of coolant?
But unfortunately I do not know of any other way to check for leaks besides just physically looking for it. I say check your coolant lines going to the firewall and look for dried coolant under any of the hoses. Any loss of coolant?
I was having the exact same problem man. The stock rad was fine for me, I have an electric fan and a bottle of water wetter in 75/25 water to coolant ratio. My problem was that my intercooler was blocking all of the air that was trying to get to my rad. I cut the front bumper out and the problem was solved. Don't you guys in the states have black covers over the holes under your front signal lights? See if you can remove those as there is passage right to the rad behind there. Here is a pic of what the cut out bumper looks like, if you haven't already seen it. Hope this helps.
What does an intercooler have to do with cooling of engine coolant or, for that matter, the turbo?BaliLover wrote:Even though you have an intercooler, that turbo still gets pretty damn hot.
Have you had the system pressure tested? What is the actual coolant temperature? A good stock KA radiator has got to be fine but if there is some type of blockage/build up in there it could impede flow. I would recommend have the system pressure tested and completely flushed professionally. If you don't have coolant in the oil then there is only a few possiblities. A few of which you've already taken care of; water pump and thermostat. I would just very that the radiator and fans are working correctly. Do you still have A/C (I would assume so)? Is this occuring when it is on? Do you still have the stock electric condensor fan? How many fans do you have ("stock electric fans" from the Altima)? You need pretty powerful fans and a good radiator to suck air through a FMIC. It is possible that the temp sensor is not working correctly with the stock temp gauge, as others have said. Try replacing it. Turbo engines do run a little warmer than an NA when it's pushed hard. But you're not doing that in the hot desert sun right?
Unnatural wrote:What does an intercooler have to do with cooling of engine coolant or, for that matter, the turbo?
Turbo engines do run a little warmer than an NA when it's pushed hard. But you're not doing that in the hot desert sun right?
You should read all the posts before replying. Most people (including me) who live in very hot (desert) climates experience problems with front mount intercoolers being in the way of airflow to the radiator. Believe it or not, radiators are mounted in FRONT of the engine, behind the bumper, with air inlets (usually) so that air (while travelling) can move over them and cool the water moving through the radiator. When you put a large piece of metal in front of the radiator, which you deem to be more important for cooling air intake charge than radiator coolant - it does not allow air to hit the radiator, and subsequently affects cooling (I know this is all quite complicated). Since we live in the desert, it is difficult to cool 160+° water in a radiator with 110° air ambient, let alone with an intercooler blocking 90% of the flow of air to your core. Hence - an intercooler affects the cooling capacity of your core (by being in the way). I hope this ends the :confusion:
For the record - Turbo engines run a LOT hotter than N/A engines, and it doesn't always take "hard driving" in the "hot desert sun" to aggravate the SR into warming up. ;]
My apologies for all the parentheses.
"You should read all the posts before replying."
I did...every last one.
"Most people (including me) who live in very hot (desert) climates experience problems with front mount intercoolers being in the way of airflow to the radiator."
I don't know if you noticed...I LIVE IN TEXAS! It was 109* here yesterday, not to mention humid. I know a thing or two about heat and cooling an engine.
"Believe it or not, radiators are mounted in FRONT of the engine, behind the bumper, with air inlets (usually) so that air (while travelling) can move over them and cool the water moving through the radiator. When you put a large piece of metal in front of the radiator, which you deem to be more important for cooling air intake charge than radiator coolant - it does not allow air to hit the radiator, and subsequently affects cooling (I know this is all quite complicated). Since we live in the desert, it is difficult to cool 160+° water in a radiator with 110° air ambient, let alone with an intercooler blocking 90% of the flow of air to your core. Hence - an intercooler affects the cooling capacity of your core (by being in the way). I hope this ends the :confusion:"
I was being sarcastic in my original reply to the quote in my post. An FMIC will defintely cause a cooling problem in a vehicle in this type of heat if not accompanied with a good radiator and a couple of well performing fans. GO BACK AND REREAD MY POST CAREFULLY. I stated this much. I did mention that there may be nothing wrong at all and this temp. may be fine although on the hot side due to ambient tempurate. Of course, no one knows this because the original poster has not given use the actual running temp! And as others have stated the gauge may be reading incorrectly due to an incompatible temp sensor.
As far as the text I quoted in my original post, an intercooler only cools the AIR CHARGE not the engine, which is what BaliLover's post appears to say. REREAD IT. I realize a FMIC can hurt cooling performance as I've stated above.
"For the record - Turbo engines run a LOT hotter than N/A engines, and it doesn't always take "hard driving" in the "hot desert sun" to aggravate the SR into warming up. ;]"
During NORMAL DRIVING a turbo engine DOES NOT run that much hotter. I realize the SR's have extenuating circumstances surrounding their cooling do to a marginal water pump design. But, for the average turbo engines with a proper cooling system, normal driving temps should only be slightly higher if at all. YES when you start getting into boost frequently hot day or not your going to see the temps climb rapidly.
I don't apperciate being talked down to. I didn't do anything to deserve that, no one is trying to start a fight here. The only reason I replied to this post is to make an attempt at helping the original poster out. Please try to be a little bit more respectful, especially when I know what I'm talking about.~Brendan
I did...every last one.
"Most people (including me) who live in very hot (desert) climates experience problems with front mount intercoolers being in the way of airflow to the radiator."
I don't know if you noticed...I LIVE IN TEXAS! It was 109* here yesterday, not to mention humid. I know a thing or two about heat and cooling an engine.
"Believe it or not, radiators are mounted in FRONT of the engine, behind the bumper, with air inlets (usually) so that air (while travelling) can move over them and cool the water moving through the radiator. When you put a large piece of metal in front of the radiator, which you deem to be more important for cooling air intake charge than radiator coolant - it does not allow air to hit the radiator, and subsequently affects cooling (I know this is all quite complicated). Since we live in the desert, it is difficult to cool 160+° water in a radiator with 110° air ambient, let alone with an intercooler blocking 90% of the flow of air to your core. Hence - an intercooler affects the cooling capacity of your core (by being in the way). I hope this ends the :confusion:"
I was being sarcastic in my original reply to the quote in my post. An FMIC will defintely cause a cooling problem in a vehicle in this type of heat if not accompanied with a good radiator and a couple of well performing fans. GO BACK AND REREAD MY POST CAREFULLY. I stated this much. I did mention that there may be nothing wrong at all and this temp. may be fine although on the hot side due to ambient tempurate. Of course, no one knows this because the original poster has not given use the actual running temp! And as others have stated the gauge may be reading incorrectly due to an incompatible temp sensor.
As far as the text I quoted in my original post, an intercooler only cools the AIR CHARGE not the engine, which is what BaliLover's post appears to say. REREAD IT. I realize a FMIC can hurt cooling performance as I've stated above.
"For the record - Turbo engines run a LOT hotter than N/A engines, and it doesn't always take "hard driving" in the "hot desert sun" to aggravate the SR into warming up. ;]"
During NORMAL DRIVING a turbo engine DOES NOT run that much hotter. I realize the SR's have extenuating circumstances surrounding their cooling do to a marginal water pump design. But, for the average turbo engines with a proper cooling system, normal driving temps should only be slightly higher if at all. YES when you start getting into boost frequently hot day or not your going to see the temps climb rapidly.
I don't apperciate being talked down to. I didn't do anything to deserve that, no one is trying to start a fight here. The only reason I replied to this post is to make an attempt at helping the original poster out. Please try to be a little bit more respectful, especially when I know what I'm talking about.~Brendan
Unnatural wrote:What does an intercooler have to do with cooling of engine coolant or, for that matter, the turbo?
Well, I may be 100% wrong, but the way I understood things was that if you're shoving hot exhaust gasses back into the intake track, you're going to be increasing the temperatures in the combustion chamber, raising the engine temp. I know for sure that the underhood temps would certainly be getting hotter since you'd be circulating some really hot exhaust gasses through non-insulated piping around the engine bay.
An intercooler would cool down these exhaust gasses before they hit the combustion chamber wouldn't they? This would also cause the piping and intake track to stay cooler wouldn't it?
Thats why I figured an intercooler would help with engine temp but if I'm wrong in my info please let me know.
I do understand about the FMIC blocking airflow to the radiator and causing cooling inefficencies though, and I think that some cooling ducts might help a bit when the car is in motion but at idle at a long red light wouldn't there still be some problems?
BaliLover, I apologize if my comment was rude or offensive. It sounds like you are still learning about turbo's, etc.... Let me help you out...BaliLover wrote:Well, I may be 100% wrong, but the way I understood things was that if you're shoving hot exhaust gasses back into the intake track, you're going to be increasing the temperatures in the combustion chamber, raising the engine temp. I know for sure that the underhood temps would certainly be getting hotter since you'd be circulating some really hot exhaust gasses through non-insulated piping around the engine bay.
An intercooler would cool down these exhaust gasses before they hit the combustion chamber wouldn't they? This would also cause the piping and intake track to stay cooler wouldn't it?
Thats why I figured an intercooler would help with engine temp but if I'm wrong in my info please let me know.
I do understand about the FMIC blocking airflow to the radiator and causing cooling inefficencies though, and I think that some cooling ducts might help a bit when the car is in motion but at idle at a long red light wouldn't there still be some problems?
The turbo does not recirculate hot exhaust gas back through the engine. Exhaust energy is forced through the turbo's turbine section (hot side) and then expelled into the downpipe and the rest of the exhaust system. This exhaust energy spins a turbine wheel inside the turbine side of the turbo which spins a shaft that connects to the compressor wheel on the compressor side (cold side) of the turbo. The compressor side sucks in ambient air and compresses it. The fresh air, in this case, is forced through an intercooler (cooling the air after it is compressed) and then into the engine's intake manifold; then the engine. The turbo's compressor (cold) side and turbine (hot) side are completely isolated from each other. No exhaust is forced into the engine. So the intercooler's job is only to cool off the compressed air as it is hotter than ambient air. This, of course, helps prevent detonation and create more power.
You are right about a FMIC cause cooling problems if certain precautions aren't taken. You need to make sure your cooling system is in good shape and you'll need powerful fans to assist in pulling air through the FMIC and the radiator. When at idle you're cooling system should be capable of transferring enough heat to keep the engine temps under control. The temps shouldn't just continue to rise uncontrollably. If they do...you got problems.
You are also correct that it is beneficial to underhood temps, and turbo spool up, to coat or wrap exhaust piping and the turbine section of the turbo to contain heat. Hope this helps.~Brendan
Unnatural wrote:BaliLover, I apologize if my comment was rude or offensive. It sounds like you are still learning about turbo's, etc.... Let me help you out...
The turbo does not recirculate hot exhaust gas back through the engine. Exhaust energy is forced through the turbo's turbine section (hot side) and then expelled into the downpipe and the rest of the exhaust system. This exhaust energy spins a turbine wheel inside the turbine side of the turbo which spins a shaft that connects to the compressor wheel on the compressor side (cold side) of the turbo. The compressor side sucks in ambient air and compresses it. The fresh air, in this case, is forced through an intercooler (cooling the air after it is compressed) and then into the engine's intake manifold; then the engine. The turbo's compressor (cold) side and turbine (hot) side are completely isolated from each other. No exhaust is forced into the engine. So the intercooler's job is only to cool off the compressed air as it is hotter than ambient air. This, of course, helps prevent detonation and create more power.
Ya know, I must have had a serious brain fart.... or maybe its the 28 hours without sleep that killing me. I totally forgot that the exhaust gasses are seperate from the intake charge... Yeah, I'm a bit new to turbos, but that was a complelty moronic mistake on my part... Thanks for the reminder but still, feel free to flog me for it.
~BrendanLike ItzGenX said you've got to flow as much CFM through there as possible. More than likely you'll be able to do that with two fans over one. But depending on available space a single may flow more. For instance, if you can fit a big 16" fan flowing 2000CFM or two 10" fans flowing 800CFM...the choice is obvious. Even together the two 10" fans are only flowing 1600CFM, much less than the 2000CFM of the 16". Now if both those 10" fans flowed 1000CFM each than that's the setup I would go with because you are speading them out of greater surface area. You need to measure the available mounting space of your radiator and then decide what will fit. Engine clearance/fan height shouldn't be a problem since there is a lot of room between the engine and the radiator.~Brendan