This part goes where....?

[tokendog]

Alright, well, I'm still on my quest to get the head back on my car and I am wanting to make sure I do it as close to correct as possible. =P

This is my first time doing some thing like this, so I am hoping you guys, as always, can help me get this thing back up and running.

I started putting the hoses/brackets back on to the back of the head and am wondering if this looks right?







These are the bolts that I used for the brackets on the back of the head. They appear to be a little bit longer than the stock bolts, but they go in without issue. Any thing I should be worried about with this or are these fine for the brackets?

[Hijacker]

So long as the bolt keeps the brackets tight against the head, you should have no worries.

Also, make sure you put a hose stepper/mender in your heater core lines. The SR has slightly larger diameter hoses than the US 240 chassis. (I believe the SR uses 3/4" hoses, and the KA used 5/8"). Your local auto store should have metal steppers. I used to use the plastic ones, but they deform and dissintegrate after a few years of use.

I would attach the turbo coolant line to the turbo first. It's easier to install that way.

[tokendog]

Thanks Hijacker.

On the first pic: Whats with the small hole that is directly below one bolt and to the left of another on the right side of the head?

What goes there?

[positron1]

I just looked on the back of my SR and there's nothing in that hole, looks like it's just there because nothing goes there.

[tokendog]

Gotta love that.

Thanks Positron and Hijacker.

[positron1]

My mistake, something actually does go there. There is a small ziptie on the coil pack harness that goes in that hole. My bad! I'll find a pic.

[positron1]

If you look closely you can see it but it's not connected in this pic, it's the light gray tie around the coil pack harness where that hole is.

[tokendog]

Yeah, I see what you mean. Basically its just for cable management. Cool deal. Thanks Positron.

I'm going to be posting a good bit asking where tidbits go just to make sure I am getting things on correctly. Its great having guys like you and Hijacker around to help out. Thanks again.

[Hijacker]

I wish I could find some place that offers that style of zip tie. they have little clips on them that push in through holes and hold it in place without having to wrap the zip tie around the bracket. Such a marvelous piece of plastic.

[tokendog]

if I find anything around where I live, I'll let you know. I know a few mechanics around here who can get their hands on odd little things like that. =P

[tokendog]

Ok, well, according to my ARP instructions, the head bolts need to be torqued down to 105 ft lbs in 3 stages. I know this to be false.

I was wondering what the correct torque specs, in stages, are for the ARP studs. If I remember correctly, isn't it like 75 or 80lbs?

Also, I hand tightened the studs in to the head...literally HAND tighten...no allen wrench, no nada....is this the correct method?

And I am supposed to lube the studs on both ends, right? In the block and in the head?

Thanks!
Modified by tokendog at 3:06 PM 6/2/2008

[Hijacker]

75 lbs is typical for having the ARP moly lube on the threads.

I believe you're allowed up to about 3-4 lb/ft of torque on the studs, but the rule of thumb I follow is "tighten them down in the block, and when you meet absolute resistance (ie - getting ready to apply torque), back them out a fraction of a turn." I do that just to maintain that they weren't tight in the threads, so there's no pre-load.

I also use an allen wrench to get them down there as a lot of times there's small amounts of debris and other junk on the threads of the block that make it tough to get them in all the way by hand alone. I also chase the block threads with a modified used head bolt. It cleans all the nasty stuff off the threads.

[tokendog]

whats the stages though? 30lbs then 50lbs then 75lbs? so you tighten them in with an allen wrench, then back them off, and then tighten until you feel pressure then stop - then use the nut and torque wrench to actually do the tightening?

[tokendog]

Ok so got the head torqued on and the lifters installed. Doing guides/shims, rocker arms, and whatever else I can tomorrow. Then after that hoses, vacuum lines, etc. Thats probably what I'll need the most help with identifying stuff. I have the vacuum line guide but I will want to double check heater/coolant hoses, etc.

The head was a PITA in to put on with the heater hoses on the back of it attached, so I had to remove the big U shaped one and will have to fight putting it back on with the head installed....but there was no way it was going to go back on with that hose on there...the AC lines got in the way.

I almost wanted to remove the AC lines but living near New Orleans and with the humidity we have.....ha, no way.

More to come.